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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of the few things that I thought could not brake, broke. I was in my backyard tuning my bar10 after a cleaning and suddenly as I try to pull the bolt back, the handle snaps at the base, the widest part no less, and flies off a good 20 feet from the force of me pulling it. I'm using my m170 spring that I've had since I got my bar10 and has probably compressed quite a bit, so I can't believe the handle snapped after several months of this spring. This shouldn't be too surprising but the aluminum that the handle is made of has a foamed type structure inside instead of solid aluminum. This is probably the reason that it snapped.



I will try to j-b weld it and if that doesn't work then I can try fitting the bolt handle from my well mb-10 on my bar10. The mb10's handle has a slightly smaller hole to fit on the end of the bolt but a little dremeling will fix that. If all else fails I can try to find a replacement online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well I still want it for the mean time and I have the weld on hand, so I just finished clamping it with a big glob of the weld in all the porous places I could get it in. It should last a while but you are right; I do need to get a steel handle. I wonder if I can find one online or if I need to have a machinist make it for me.

EDIT: The cheapest bolt handle I could find online (where it was in stock) is over 80$. No, just no. I'm not paying that much for a frigging flimsy piece of aluminum. I guess I have to have someone make it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I'm not going to pay 80$+ for a piece of aluminum, so I need to get someone to machine it for me. I need to fine a machinist in my area, although I have no idea how to find one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well I know j-b weld is no miracle, but I did fill up all those cavities with it and have the two pieces clamped together with as much weld as I could cram in that joint. Tomorrow I'll test it out and even though it's not as strong as steel, it might just do the trick. I will still try to have someone make a steel one though. I think I might have found a place near me that can do it. I would go the local college route but I have no idea how to go about asking someone, or even how to find them in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think I'll do that as a last resort. Or a second to last resort as the case may be. My last resort is to pay over 80 bucks for a replacement handle, or over 200 bucks for a steel replacement handle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I j-b welded it and after a about 100 shots it doesn't seem to want to break. I made sure to fill up all those bubbles in the handle with it to add structure and to hold onto it better. I'm still going to see if I can get a steel one machined for me but this is working as a good spare for now.


You can see the seam on the handle from where it broke. I also painted it black to mask the gray from the weld. Not the best paint job in the world but it's only temporary I hope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
AA z-trig, which means no safety. It sucks but what are you gonna do?
 

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If it breaks again, tap it down the center and put an iron rod in there, then weld it back together. A nice, thick rod (lol, sorry...) should provide excellent support and prevent that happening again. I am rather disappointed to see that they cheaped out on the one functioning part of the gun that takes the most of the beating =\
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hopefully I won't have to repair it again if I can get these machinists to respond to my emails. If I do have to repair it again though, that is a great idea; putting a metal rod inside. I actually happen to have a few scrap steel rids lying around in case I can use them for something, so that would work perfectly.
 

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About 9-10 years ago, I purchased my first gun, a LPEG MP5 for 70 dollars... The cocking handle was built the same way, thus it snapped off. I cut off the cheap rod connecting the nub to the cocking tube, drilled a hole into the bolt and through the nub, and threw a 1/4 inch steel rod in there. I can give it some good-ole' HK slaps all day long now!

Speaking of that gun... A bit off topic, but the motor in that thing spits 25 bps! I just run cheap bulk ammo through that, like crossman .12's, and I still get kills in cqb. It's kinda hysterical when someone with a 500 dollar modded m4 gets shot out by a 'classic' LPEG. Haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The first gun I got, a cheapo non-clear 30$ Well m16 springer, had this piece of junk plastic cocking handle. Of course it broke within a few weeks so I just tied some string to the place where the handle would normally attach and have been pulling a loop of string back to cock it ever since. Of course I haven't shot it in months because it can't shoot accurately past 100 feet.

I don't really care if we get off topic, I've pretty much shared all I have, or at least until I get a response back from a machinist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
DUCT TAPE IT! It wouldn't hurt, right? :p
LOL yeah. My motto is actually "If it isn't fixed you haven't used enough duct tape." No joke I actually use that as my motto. In this case though, I would need to fuse the duct tape with steel and apply it as an adhesive, which isn't going to happen.
 
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