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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so I may buy a Mosfet for my CYMA SVD afterall simply for the reason to make the contacts last longer. However I don't have the skill to make one but I would just like to buy one. I've seen the burst wizard, however I really don't need all of those features and wondering about other's setups.
 

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Gatee nano aab is good, I have it sort of, I have the version without active breaking. The latest one comes with built in fuse. It's actually to good for my gun =p I have a m90 spring and it turns the gearbox two cycles at semi every other shot so if I would buy a mosfet after this I would go with active breaking :) it's pretty simple to install to and comes with extra deans connectors :) and they have a good guide on the web on have to install it, it's pretty cheap to


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Well the big question is, are you comfortable rewiring your gun?
If you are, the NanoASR and the NanoAAB from gate are good choices.
If you rather not rewire, then the burst wizard(BW) or merf 3.2(From gate) are options.

I would personally rewire the gun, that way I can swap mosfet fast, not that I would have to, but I like the flexibility.
Currently I got a NanoAB(Older model), NanoASR and a BW, that I can swap out in a matter for seconds.

I bought the BW for the sniper delay, as I'm limited to one bb in the air at any time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just watched a video that says the plug and play ones don't even protect the contacts. I'm really not super comfortable rewiring my gun since it's not a standard M4 with a V2 or something like that. So if the plug and play ones do nothing I might as well not even bother.
 

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You don't know anyone that can help you? It's not that hard to do and if you buy 16awg cables that's another upgrade to the gun, just wire them straight to the motor and then the dibble connector you get from gatee to the trigger contacts and it's all rock and roll :) this is if you are comfortable using a soldering iron.
Plug and play will cut the arching out so it does a little but not much at all.


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Any real MOSFET will require some soldering. There is no way to magically bypass the trigger switch while sending current to the motor otherwise, only delay the onset of power to reduce arching.

The installation of a MOSFET is the same on all AEG platforms - M4, SVD or otherwise.
 

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Go for a Gate mosfet. They are very small and fit everywhere. They are relatively cheap and very high quality. I've made a review on the PicoAb, that thing is small.. currently I have the NanoAAB, and I'll be making a review on that as well..
Mosfet PicoAB from Gatee - Review/Install:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You don't know anyone that can help you? It's not that hard to do and if you buy 16awg cables that's another upgrade to the gun, just wire them straight to the motor and then the dibble connector you get from gatee to the trigger contacts and it's all rock and roll :) this is if you are comfortable using a soldering iron.
Plug and play will cut the arching out so it does a little but not much at all.

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Go for a Gate mosfet. They are very small and fit everywhere. They are relatively cheap and very high quality. I've made a review on the PicoAb, that thing is small.. currently I have the NanoAAB, and I'll be making a review on that as well..
Mosfet PicoAB from Gatee - Review/Install:
No I don't know anyone who can install one for me. I have never soldered in my life as well. Nor have I ever even worked on or disassembled an AEG before so I am straight up AEG noob. I may have to just chance not using one and figure out how to replace trigger contacts if need be.
 

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I may have to just chance not using one and figure out how to replace trigger contacts if need be.
Replacing the contacts will require the same work unless you replace the whole wiring harness with a factory one. The contacts will still need soldering in to the old harness.

Soldering is not hard nor are the tools expensive. A basic iron is under $10 and the only other things you need are flux and a spool of solder. Watch some videos, practice with some scraps of wire and then go for it.
 

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Replacing the contacts will require the same work unless you replace the whole wiring harness with a factory one. The contacts will still need soldering in to the old harness.

Soldering is not hard nor are the tools expensive. A basic iron is under $10 and the only other things you need are flux and a spool of solder. Watch some videos, practice with some scraps of wire and then go for it.
With that in mind, some solder are really bad, and won't stick to anything.
So if you try it, and it won't stick, theres a chance it's the solder at fault.
 

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To solder off the existing cables you will need to have more than 150w in my experience, I bought a kit with a soldering gun with 900w to take the existing soldering off and then solder it with a 300w pen
Edit: 150w=15w 300w=30w and the gun was 175w, sorry I'm tired =p thanks for correcting me xD


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Uh, baracken, no offense but a 20w soldering iron will do the trick without any problems...
60/40 solder melts at 260 c or so, lead-free takes a bit more.
Sounds to me like you have a bad tip on your soldering iron.
 

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@vaksai
Ops, maybe I was a "bit" off, I have edit my post :) thanks for noticing, would have been bad if he would have bought a 300w soldering pen...mid that even exist.


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I keep a $25 mini butane soldering iron in my larger field case. I've fixed more than a few AEG wiring issues for people over lunch with it.

But as BuMS pointed out, a good quality solder and flux makes all the difference.
 
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