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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey again guys.. Well I am going to start of the rewire job of the rifle. Still trying to find the parts for the mosfet but figured I would get it atleast started.

I have the rifle out of the stock and have a question already. The wire from the motor, red, goes from the back of the motor to the front of the gear box. Then it comes out just under where it went in. So does that mean I will have to dismantle the gear box, or just be able to do it from the outside?

I am assuming that I will need to solder the wire into where these wires are going right now?

I am planning on leaving a bit of wire so that I can still wire the mosfet in.

Any help would be great guys.
 

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It largely depends on how you solder up the FET parts, but on mine all I did was use the 2 stock wires from the trigger, the ones you are talking about, as they are, as switch wires, because they will only be carring low level current to the FET. Just make sure the wires you have feedin the battery to the motor are a bit more substantial ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh yeah I think I have like 14 or 16 GA wires. Just wanted to make sure before I tore into her. I have her all apart and did a little painting on her while I was waiting.

So tonight I rewire, then find my mosfet parts
Oh and to make it semi only should only have to take off the switch and that wrap around arm thing correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I ripped into the rifle:D

I have her down to the basic parts right now. Had to do some cutting on the gearbox itself to let the wires fit in with no obstructions. Upon opening the gear box I found that one of the switch wires broke. So I took the switch box apart and plan on soldering the wires right to the contacts.

I will get her up and going tomorrow with my second lipo battery.. Just a word of the wise.... don't try and cut your wires both at the same time, or with a full charge on the batteries
 

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Let me guess..... it went bang, with lots of sparks, followed by a nasty smell of poo, followed by some gentle sobbing as you realised you'd fried your battery? :'(

Am I close? ;)

In regards my M14/EBR, should I shouldn't I issue, I played yesterday with it set up as an M21 and ended up using it along side the assault element of the team, thus expending far to much ammo and flattening my 1200mah lipo 2 games before dinner


I was not a happy camper when this happened, and ended the day running round with the VSR instead, used 50 bbs in 5 games and never got shot once ::), so have decided to have another look at making it back into the EBR, just in an effort to slow me down and make me realise the weapon I'm carrying is feckin heavy for a reason, and no I shouldn't be at the front of the stack just outside the entry door, I should be the otherside of the clearing covering the windows ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah that is about how it went... I serriously cried a little bit. And as soon as I did it I knew exactly what I did wrong.

I love the EBR will get her done today and will get some pics of today or tomorrow. Can't wait getting all my rifles working now
 

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woogie said:
getting all my rifles working now
I wish, seem to be taking mine apart more often than not just lately :(

I luckily picked up 2>3 days work so my rebuilding will have to wait for now ;)

If you show me yours I'll show you mine....... in mock up, as nothings bolted/wired up yet :)

Original mock up from a couple of weeks ago, with old 9.6 between stock rails





I didn't like the battery position, though it did help with the balance issue abit, or the whole SOCOM/silencer thing, so....

Prefered mock up, new Lipo up front, solid steel stock bars ( as I have them set to a fixed length because the catch doesn't work, so I'm not worried about it being adjustable) yet to be fitted to further bring the point of balance back. Note the bi-pod isn't the one that will be fitted and I shall probably make the stock abit shorter too, among other little bits and pieces to help the balancing act




 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I hear that. What brand you end up getting?

I have a suppressor that I bought for a buddy that I keep tossing on mine. I really honestly like it


I have an extra peq box for a small lipo if you would like ;) Can trade you a PEQ box for a AB mossfet .

Ok second edit for the day.. Well I got all the rewiring done, gear box back together and everything looks good. BUT .... the rifle still isn't cycling.. It sounds like the motor runs for but a second and then nothing. Upon hearing this I let go of the trigger and try again... and again nothing..

So what is happening and what can I do to fix this? Thanks guys.
 

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Its a KART with my G&G box and barrel machined to fit. The KART chassis is notoriously heavy, but is cheap, and at the time no one else was doing the mod as it was to involved, when you consider that you could just drop a TM box in and go play ;) But I wanted something no one else had so built it anyway


I can build you one no probs mate but it'll cost more in mail than it will in parts to get it across the pond ;) it really is dead easy to build one so long as you follow the guide I linked. I've got it down to half hour now to build an AB MOSFET that includes fitting it into the gun. Or are you still unable to locate the correct FETs?

Your gearbox,

You say the motor works, then stops, then you get nothing after, the bit when the motor works, does it pull the piston back to just before it should release it but doesn't quite? Ive had this a couple of times for different reasons, first was a small battery pack that didn't quite have the balls to take the piston all the way, only way out was to put on a larger mah or voltage battery and see if that kicks some life into it, the other time was me trying to get extra power from a low rate spring by fitting spacers behind it, I put a spacer in that was to big and the spring became coil bound stopping the piston half cycle, only way out of that is to strip it down again.

Other likely causes,

Shimming, if its to tight it can drag all the power out of the system to the point it stops the piston, burns out the motor or if you have one fitted, blow the fuse.

One odd cause I had on my A&K SR25 was the piston guides weren't running parallel, and when the piston was pulled back it would literally wedge itself in the back of the gearbox case so hard that even an M120 spring wouldn't push it back out, so I had to specially mod my piston to be narrower at the back.

As you've had it apart recently, and it obviously worked OK before, I'd recommend you take it back apart again, recheck the shimming, make sure the piston can go all the way back with and without the spring in, then go over your wiring again, just in case ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will do .. I am sure that the motor sill works ok. I am currently running an 11.1v lipo I believe in her. I am guessing that I may have just tightened the shell to tight. I will take a look at her tonight. If it is the motor will order a new one, oh well I guess.

Don't know why I always do this... I hate AEG's
and yet here I am with one that messed up again on me... This is the last one... or so I say


Yeah I am having a hell of a time trying to find the parts for the mosfett. But will keep at it
 

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Its the trouble with AEGs mate, theres more going on to achieve the same effect as a bolty ;) it only takes 1 of those things to be singing off the wrong page and the whole thing goes to hell in a hand cart :-/

On nearly all the forums I'm on there is a specific thread dedicated to making AEGs into a reasonable DMR, and most people are put off by the amount of precision engineering and tolerances that go into building one, most just think its a case of slap the longest barrel you can find in it, slap a bi-pod and scope on it, then go off calling yourself a DM, sadly real life is more cynical.

A well respected airsoft sniper forum goer over here said that in 75% of all the games he plays, he would rather take a well sorted DMR over a bolty, so long as it shot 12" at 50' 9 out of 10 times, I also have been thinking along this line as sites over here are quite small and contact ranges fairly low, so the accuracy and range advantage of a bolty is far out weighed by the faster follow up shot, larger mid-cap mag capacity and ease of use. Which is why I now own 3 AEG DMRs and only 1 Bolty and that only gets taken to site as a back up if something goes wrong with a DMR.

So, on that note I've decided that my M14/M21/EBR, my SR25 and then my SOC16 will get full rebuilds, instead of the half arsed rushed, lets get it working, affair it normally gets, using the best parts I have in stock and in other lesser used weapons. Then I might, given the time, do a photo 'how to and why' in the Long-range AEG section, as I don't think anyone, including me, has done one specifically for AEG DMRs :-/
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh yeah I hear you on the tinkering parts of it. That doesn't bother me... just sucks to know you did all this work..... and nothing :(

Oh well I still have time before my first game of the year. And I will get her working by then. Already looking at a nice set of precision gears, and a nice barrel. Might as well get a high performance motor as well.

Well went back over it and found that I did have the shell to tight. Loosened up a tad and all is well
 
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