The only part that isn't interchangeable is the hop up. Also, you can get an APS 2 cylinder and use it, you just need an APS 2 bolt, an M24 bolt won't work in it.
CA M24 Upgrades
Hi all,
I just recently purchased a CA M24 Military type. I'm looking to upgrade the SWS to shoot about 550 fps and/or over. I've been doing some research and have noticed that many of the parts used in APS 2s can be used in M24s. However, my problem is that I'm not sure exactly which parts would work in an M24 and which wouldn't. I'd hate to start purchasing parts to only later realize that they're not compatible.
So with that, I was wondering if anyone could point me in a direction, as far as, which parts they would recommend to start building upon my platform.
Thanks for your time!
I just recently purchased a CA M24 Military type. I'm looking to upgrade the SWS to shoot about 550 fps and/or over. I've been doing some research and have noticed that many of the parts used in APS 2s can be used in M24s. However, my problem is that I'm not sure exactly which parts would work in an M24 and which wouldn't. I'd hate to start purchasing parts to only later realize that they're not compatible.
So with that, I was wondering if anyone could point me in a direction, as far as, which parts they would recommend to start building upon my platform.
Thanks for your time!
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
Like Mosin said, the stock trigger assembly should hold up for quite a while. They're pretty well built.
*EDIT*
Sorry, I completely missed your question about buckings. Generally speaking, Hard buckings were intended for high velocity guns. However, hard buckings are not as consistant as soft buckings. At the same time, a soft bucking is going to wear down much faster and need to be replaced more often than a hard bucking. So, the choice is yours, just depends on what you want.
*EDIT*
Sorry, I completely missed your question about buckings. Generally speaking, Hard buckings were intended for high velocity guns. However, hard buckings are not as consistant as soft buckings. At the same time, a soft bucking is going to wear down much faster and need to be replaced more often than a hard bucking. So, the choice is yours, just depends on what you want.
Yup, all APS 2 parts are interchangeable with an M24, excluding the hop up units. As a side note, if you do elect to go with an APS 2 cylinder, you MUST use an APS 2 bolt.
As for the hop up, the M24 is one of the rare bolt actions that already can use a standard AEG barrel (which is the reason many people end up getting an upgraded hop up chamber) without an upgraded hop up unit. The only reason I elected to go with a PDI hop up in my M24 is because you can adjust up/down AND left/right. A stock CA hop up chamber will suffice, though.
If you do want to get the PDI M24 Hop Up Chamber, they're pretty hard to find, unless you buy directly from PDIs website where they are somewhat pricey after shipping www.x-fire.org or just recently www.combatdepot.com (out of Ohio) added them to their inventory, something like $52 (on sale) + shipping.
As for the hop up, the M24 is one of the rare bolt actions that already can use a standard AEG barrel (which is the reason many people end up getting an upgraded hop up chamber) without an upgraded hop up unit. The only reason I elected to go with a PDI hop up in my M24 is because you can adjust up/down AND left/right. A stock CA hop up chamber will suffice, though.
If you do want to get the PDI M24 Hop Up Chamber, they're pretty hard to find, unless you buy directly from PDIs website where they are somewhat pricey after shipping www.x-fire.org or just recently www.combatdepot.com (out of Ohio) added them to their inventory, something like $52 (on sale) + shipping.
The PDI hop up allows both sniper and AEG barrels. Also, I run a Dees 6.01 in my M24. No problems with it at all. I clean my barrel every 1-2 big games I go to, and that's pretty much it. I can also tell you that my gun is hitting 545 FPS with a cut down PDI SPR 200% spring (most people use have to use a 300% spring to get results like that).
As long as you keep the Dees 6.01 pretty clean, you'll love it. As a side note on them though, they require a 500-1000 round break in period, so what I'd suggest is putting it in an AEG and running those initial rounds through it before putting it in your M24.
Also, with the 6.01 barrel, I'm running a cut down PDI SPR 200% Spring and hitting 545 FPS.
Also, with the 6.01 barrel, I'm running a cut down PDI SPR 200% Spring and hitting 545 FPS.
I'm 5'9"ish 140lbs and I have both the 6-9 and 9-12 and they both work well for prone position. If anything, I prefer the 6-9 (King Arms Spring Return).
I had to email them for the barrel. In the email, just let them know what barrel you want, they'll price it out for you, tell you where to pay, ect. and they'll send it right out. It may take them a few days to respond, especially with the holiday.
Now to answer your other questions...
1) Pretty much nothing....I've modded mine to hold a Faux mag, but it's purely cosmetic.
2) The reason the cylinder wont slide all the way forward when the mag is empty is because the cylinder head is hitting the BB follower, and since it doesn't move out of the mag well, the cylinder wont slide all the way forward. So, pretty much it's the cylinder head hitting something that isn't meant to leave the mag - like a BB does. It is an indicator that the mag is empty, but that's not exactly what it's intended to do. Also, don't force it forward when it does that, because you can break the BB follower off and then your mag is pretty much screwed.
Now to answer your other questions...
1) Pretty much nothing....I've modded mine to hold a Faux mag, but it's purely cosmetic.
2) The reason the cylinder wont slide all the way forward when the mag is empty is because the cylinder head is hitting the BB follower, and since it doesn't move out of the mag well, the cylinder wont slide all the way forward. So, pretty much it's the cylinder head hitting something that isn't meant to leave the mag - like a BB does. It is an indicator that the mag is empty, but that's not exactly what it's intended to do. Also, don't force it forward when it does that, because you can break the BB follower off and then your mag is pretty much screwed.
X-Fire is the official Distributor site of PDI, which means they generally have everything in stock, which makes them better to order from. They're both overseas though, so shipping is going to be high on both Redwolf and X-Fire.Sorry, but would you say X-Fire would be the one to use because I've been looking though Redwolf Airsoft for parts but a lot of people have said that the shipping is pretty bad, and X-Fire sounded good.
Trinity Airsoft is the only place I've seen them so far, I believe they're based out of Virginia, so shipping should be quick. Here's the link:
http://www.trinityairsoft.com/p-186-m24-advanced-cylinder-kits-classic-army.aspx
http://www.trinityairsoft.com/p-186-m24-advanced-cylinder-kits-classic-army.aspx
Sorry it took me so long to get to this, I've been extremely busy with work and hanging out with my girlfriend after being away for training the last 4 months.snax said:Hi. Im new to the forums here.
Im thinking about getting the CA m24.
And i want it to shoot around 420ish fps. What would i need? and would i need to change the hopup unit? from what i've heard and read it would hold? (correct me if im wrong)
Anyways, all you'll really need for the small of an upgrade is an adequate spring. You won't need a new hop up, but depending on how your accuracy is, you may end up investing in one anyways. Also, I would recommend if you're serious about sniping, that you upgrade your gun to the 500 FPS point, otherwise you're at an even bigger disadvantage when competing with AEGs.
Eventually the stock parts will wear down, but for the time being, just the spring will suffice.
Stock inner barrel is a 6.10 515mm barrel. Closest tightbore you'll find is M16 length, 509mm, which will be close enough that it won't make a difference. First updrade, get a Guarder or First Factory/Laylax steal bolt handle, the stock one will snap, guaranteed.
Personally, I'd go with a KM Head 6.04mm barrel. They're far nicer than the Prometheus/Madbull 6.03 barrels, and cheaper than PDI/Dees Customs 6.01 barrels. That last post was also supposed to say Laylax or Guarder, seeing as Laylax and First Factory are both the same company...
Sorry, it didn't notify me there was a new post. Anyways, that Bolt handle will work, but you'll need to get an APS cylinder in order to use that one. http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?itm=PDI-APS-SH-B_srch_aps
I'd highly recommend though that you get the Guarder APS handle with a PSS2 Teflon Cylinder. It'll make your bolt pull far easier/smoother.
As for shipping, just send in a quote to X-fire, and they'll email you back with shipping, no idea what it would be though.
I'd highly recommend though that you get the Guarder APS handle with a PSS2 Teflon Cylinder. It'll make your bolt pull far easier/smoother.
As for shipping, just send in a quote to X-fire, and they'll email you back with shipping, no idea what it would be though.
You'll want the 'right' bolt handle. The left is meant to be cocked with your left hand, the right is obviously for your right. You want to cock with you dominant arm. If that is left, you can get the left, but you'll have to cut your stock on the left side to make room for the bolt handle.
The CA bolt handle is made of pot metal, simply said, it's a piece of crap.
Piston and piston head look good, same thing I use.
The cylinder head will work fine, I used it for quite some time in mine.
The stock hop up will be fine, though I'd go with a PDI M24 hop up if you can find it. It allows you to fine tune much more. Both will use the same standard AEG barrel/bucking. If you do get a PDI hop up DONT get one for an APS, it will NOT fit.
For the spring guide, I'd recommend the
http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=1035
You won't need new sears or a Zero Trigger for a very long time, the CA one is actually built quite solidy. I've been running mine for 3+ years at 575 FPS, and not one failure.
And the cylinder
http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=1834
*EDIT*
Haha, you definitely beat me Embed, but for the record, I started at 4am, and just kept getting distracted.
The CA bolt handle is made of pot metal, simply said, it's a piece of crap.
Piston and piston head look good, same thing I use.
The cylinder head will work fine, I used it for quite some time in mine.
The stock hop up will be fine, though I'd go with a PDI M24 hop up if you can find it. It allows you to fine tune much more. Both will use the same standard AEG barrel/bucking. If you do get a PDI hop up DONT get one for an APS, it will NOT fit.
For the spring guide, I'd recommend the
http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=1035
You won't need new sears or a Zero Trigger for a very long time, the CA one is actually built quite solidy. I've been running mine for 3+ years at 575 FPS, and not one failure.
And the cylinder
http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=1834
*EDIT*
Haha, you definitely beat me Embed, but for the record, I started at 4am, and just kept getting distracted.
The cylinder set he has in there is probably the upgraded CA set, which is still shit, but since when you upgrade you'll be replacing everything anyways, it's not gonna cause any harm to use what's in there 'til it breaks.
Easy to take everything apart, and it really is that simple. Just follow the guide I wrote to a T and you'll be golden. Plus, Embed and I are extremely fluent with the M24, so if you run into complications let one of us know.
Also, that's not the cylinder head in the picture, that the piece the bolt handle attaches to, so you will need to purchase the cylinder head as well.
Easy to take everything apart, and it really is that simple. Just follow the guide I wrote to a T and you'll be golden. Plus, Embed and I are extremely fluent with the M24, so if you run into complications let one of us know.
Also, that's not the cylinder head in the picture, that the piece the bolt handle attaches to, so you will need to purchase the cylinder head as well.
It's special order from Combat Depot, so it may take him up to 3 weeks to get it for you, but he CAN get it for you. I have a Guarder on my M24 and a FF on my APS; I like the Guarder much better.
Only the cylinder has to be APS, other than that, no. CA based the M24 off of the APS, so everything is identical, if it works in one, it'll work in the other - the EXCEPTION to that rule is the hop up units and barrel spacers, and obviously the APS Cylinder with the APS Bolt, and CA Cylinder with the CA style bolt.
Only the cylinder has to be APS, other than that, no. CA based the M24 off of the APS, so everything is identical, if it works in one, it'll work in the other - the EXCEPTION to that rule is the hop up units and barrel spacers, and obviously the APS Cylinder with the APS Bolt, and CA Cylinder with the CA style bolt.
agentu said:Thanks for that. Ill probably get that one since its most likely in the states = $12 for shipping. Not bad. Should be the same quality as the FF one right?
And correct me if im wrong, if i were to get that, i would have to upgrade EVERYTHING with APS2 parts right? No M24 parts?
The mag I believe holds somewhere around 25ish, I don't remember off the top of my had. They should also stack staggered, overlapping each other slightly, but by no means should sit side by side. If you can, get a picture since I'm curious.
You can try using locktight, but your best best is to get a tap kit and tap the hole a little larger and use a larger screw. The only downside to a CA M24 is they metal is crap.
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
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