Airsoft Sniper Forum banner

CA M24 Upgrades

16351 Views 64 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  dutton
Hi all,

I just recently purchased a CA M24 Military type. I'm looking to upgrade the SWS to shoot about 550 fps and/or over. I've been doing some research and have noticed that many of the parts used in APS 2s can be used in M24s. However, my problem is that I'm not sure exactly which parts would work in an M24 and which wouldn't. I'd hate to start purchasing parts to only later realize that they're not compatible.

So with that, I was wondering if anyone could point me in a direction, as far as, which parts they would recommend to start building upon my platform.

Thanks for your time!
41 - 60 of 65 Posts
Noo. lol The replies have stopped. Not a problem. People are just busy i guess. But if someone does read this, could you tell me how much shipping usually cost for x fire? Just for small things, parts etc.
Sorry, it didn't notify me there was a new post. Anyways, that Bolt handle will work, but you'll need to get an APS cylinder in order to use that one.

I'd highly recommend though that you get the Guarder APS handle with a PSS2 Teflon Cylinder. It'll make your bolt pull far easier/smoother.

As for shipping, just send in a quote to X-fire, and they'll email you back with shipping, no idea what it would be though.
Dutton, it is very much appreciated. And certainly not a problem. :)

I had edited my last post and then realized you responded so ill re edit it and post what i had added:

Im thinking about using uncompany though because their shipping isnt too bad and pricings are better. So for a bolt handle, whats the difference between the right and left other than the fact that their opposites. Might seem simple but not for me unfortunately. the 'left' on seems to be for right handed people...and 'right' one, vice versa. So for the classic army on, would this be ok for me? im right handed so the bolt should fall down the right side of the gun right?
And why is it so much cheaper than the FF ones?

And is it really worth it!?
Or shoulld i just upgrade the sears?

Then i would need a piston:

And piston head:

Cylinder head?

And havent seen a cylinder :S

But that seems to be about it. Working one a tightbore.

Should the stock hopup work fine if i just upgrade my bucking to, lets say, a systema? Since it uses an aeg barrel, it should be fine right? Or are there better ones for rifles.

Oh, and a metal spring guide?


Ill definitely look into the handle and cylinder you recommended. Im very lost right now so ill go with pretty much whatever you guys reccomend. lol

EDIT just realized how stupid he question about the left and right handles were so please disregard that and please dont hold it against me in the future xD I think the excitement is getting to my head lol. Right is right handed duh.
See less See more
Also, if you were to get a left handed handle you would have to mod the receiver. Not fun, the right one will do you fine.

If you're upgrading to all APS2 parts you will NEED the First Factory or Guarder bolt handle because the shaft at the end of the cylinder is longer than the CA cylinder.

This is the cylinder you're looking for:

They're out of stock at UNcompany but this is the spring guide I have and it's amazing. Solid as a rock and it's interchangeable if you want to use different bored springs. (CA vs. PDI or Laylax):

If you get all that stuff your rifle will be well on it's way to being a great shooter.
You'll want the 'right' bolt handle. The left is meant to be cocked with your left hand, the right is obviously for your right. You want to cock with you dominant arm. If that is left, you can get the left, but you'll have to cut your stock on the left side to make room for the bolt handle.

The CA bolt handle is made of pot metal, simply said, it's a piece of crap.

Piston and piston head look good, same thing I use.

The cylinder head will work fine, I used it for quite some time in mine.

The stock hop up will be fine, though I'd go with a PDI M24 hop up if you can find it. It allows you to fine tune much more. Both will use the same standard AEG barrel/bucking. If you do get a PDI hop up DONT get one for an APS, it will NOT fit.

For the spring guide, I'd recommend the

You won't need new sears or a Zero Trigger for a very long time, the CA one is actually built quite solidy. I've been running mine for 3+ years at 575 FPS, and not one failure.

And the cylinder

Haha, you definitely beat me Embed, but for the record, I started at 4am, and just kept getting distracted.
See less See more
Wow, you guys are great. Thank you so much for the help.

I suppose this will be one of the last questions i have for a long time: when do i get all of that? Its already shooting 500fps with the $100 cylinder that he put clue what type it was, i might be able to find out though. I have no clue if any other mods have been added so do i just go with it until things start to break? Would that harm the guns stability even though i would be replacing everything listed above?

(basically im a little too excited and want to give it a few months test run...and then, even if its still shooting fine, upen it up and replace the internals)

But clearly if it would damage the gun and would make it pointless to even buy those parts, ill try and gather up the money asap.

Speaking of which, how hard is it exactly to pake everything apart and install everything? As ive mentioned before, i can basically instally anything in an M4/M16 aeg, including gearbox parts, but i had clear instructions. I would imagine this would be easier because you dont have to shim and there is no gearbox to close (which i find is the hardest part)

Is it really as simple as screw off the cylinder head, put in the piston, spring, and spring guide? Lube it, then screw it back up, slide it in and put the outer pieces back together? i looked at the disassembly guide and it looked simple enough.

Thanks again. Youve been wonderfully helpful.

PS, it looks like that teflon cylinder has a cylinder head to it. Would i still need to get the $25 one?
See less See more
The cylinder set he has in there is probably the upgraded CA set, which is still shit, but since when you upgrade you'll be replacing everything anyways, it's not gonna cause any harm to use what's in there 'til it breaks.

Easy to take everything apart, and it really is that simple. Just follow the guide I wrote to a T and you'll be golden. Plus, Embed and I are extremely fluent with the M24, so if you run into complications let one of us know.

Also, that's not the cylinder head in the picture, that the piece the bolt handle attaches to, so you will need to purchase the cylinder head as well.
Excellent. Eases my mind again. Right now im just getting mags which is taking soo long. I havent even fired it yet!!!! GAAA

Anyway, that is very good to hear...and it also eases my mind know that i have two experts that i can bombard with questions in case i really cant get by something

Ah, sounds good. I was just trying to widdle it down to stuff i really need asap but since i have some time until it breaks or til i have the money, ill just go with everything. cant wait. I still havent decided whether or not im going with a .04, .03, or a .01 but im sure ill get there. Each has its own advantages.

Again, i am very grateful to have you guys.
Thanks a bunch =D


PS, i havent seen a guarder bolt handle

"First updrade, get a Guarder or First Factory/Laylax steal bolt handle"

Just for the type 96.

See less See more
Thanks for that. Ill probably get that one since its most likely in the states = $12 for shipping. Not bad. Should be the same quality as the FF one right?

And correct me if im wrong, if i were to get that, i would have to upgrade EVERYTHING with APS2 parts right? No M24 parts?
It's special order from Combat Depot, so it may take him up to 3 weeks to get it for you, but he CAN get it for you. I have a Guarder on my M24 and a FF on my APS; I like the Guarder much better.

Only the cylinder has to be APS, other than that, no. CA based the M24 off of the APS, so everything is identical, if it works in one, it'll work in the other - the EXCEPTION to that rule is the hop up units and barrel spacers, and obviously the APS Cylinder with the APS Bolt, and CA Cylinder with the CA style bolt.

agentu said:
Thanks for that. Ill probably get that one since its most likely in the states = $12 for shipping. Not bad. Should be the same quality as the FF one right?

And correct me if im wrong, if i were to get that, i would have to upgrade EVERYTHING with APS2 parts right? No M24 parts?
So i officially picked up my m24 today! Unfortunately...yes, there was a problem on the first day. It worked fine when i tested it but as i get home, nothing. First sniper, so i dont have much experience with loading the bbs, cocking, so i cant really give a description of what might be wrong. The mag is different than what i have seen on other sniper rifles. The bbs almost sit two by two :S Is thats supposed to happen? And it only holds, from what i can see, about six shots. It only holds five comfortably. After six, the spring gets stuck and i have to fish it out with something long. Is the mag messed up? I am not using a speed loader. Just my hands. I just want the damn thing to work. Any suggestions?


Just got it to work. BBs were jamming. :S I have another problem now. The previous owner stripped one of the screws. Now im stuck with a stock inner barrel and bucking at 500 fps =(
The mag I believe holds somewhere around 25ish, I don't remember off the top of my had. They should also stack staggered, overlapping each other slightly, but by no means should sit side by side. If you can, get a picture since I'm curious.
Wow that was quick. I didnt think anyone would read it since i posted it less than half an hour ago so i edited it. Its working nicely now and yes, it is staggered. I just couldnt find a better way of describing it with all the frustration ???

Anyway, i hope im not totally screwed with the stripped screw though. I quickly googled it and there seems to be a solution, but that seems to cost money. I wonder if gluing the allen wrench in the screw with super glue, then letting it sit for a day. Any thoughts?
You can try using locktight, but your best best is to get a tap kit and tap the hole a little larger and use a larger screw. The only downside to a CA M24 is they metal is crap.
Which threads did he strip, the ones that fasten the out barrel/receiver to the stock or those that fasten the trigger unit to the receiver? If it's the ones that hold the trigger on, I agree with Dutton. Tapping them out and replacing them with bigger screws is a great solution. I did it to mine and it holds like a champ.
Yea, it was one of the ones next to the trigger guard. Luckily, it was just the allen wrench i was using. I tried a new one and it worked like a charm. So now, at the moment, im swapping the inner barrel! I cant wait. I tried it out today too. Shoots so far! I was hitting trees at least 200 feet + without a scope. It could have been more like 250 but im pretty bad at judging distances. Thats why i put a minimum. Anyway, i might post a pic up later.

After that, im going to try and find a super super small phillips in order to completely open up the mag. Spring jammed again *sigh* I had to cut half an inch off because i didnt realize it was empty and i cocked it, resulting in a pinched spring. Really bad design if you as me. They should have put some sort of plastic platform between the spring and the bbs rather than having the bbs touching the spring.

PS, whats the difference between a V1 and a V2? And if i had gotten a v1, how bad would that be?
Your bb's are touching the spring? There's your problem. The follower is gone. There should be a small plastic piece between the spring and your bb's, holds them in place. I'd say just buy a new CA M24 mag, most places that do have them only sell them for about $15-$20USD. APS2 mags are compatible but not completely, that is to say each CA M24 magwell is different and some will have a problem with them fitting (like mine). The top piece that juts up above the body of the mag is just a little taller on the Maruzen mags than the CA's.

Here ya go:
Embed said:
Your bb's are touching the spring? There's your problem. The follower is gone. There should be a small plastic piece between the spring and your bb's, holds them in place. I'd say just buy a new CA M24 mag, most places that do have them only sell them for about $15-$20USD. APS2 mags are compatible but not completely, that is to say each CA M24 magwell is different and some will have a problem with them fitting (like mine). The top piece that juts up above the body of the mag is just a little taller on the Maruzen mags than the CA's.

Here ya go:
All I did to mine when I had it was use a plastic washer under/near the front mounting bolt to space the outer barrel from the stock ever so slightly, but then when I bought mine off my mate he had nothing but APS mags so fitting a CA one wasn't an issue. Another top tip I found out by accident is when reassembling the barrel into the stock make sure you have a mag in place and that it comes out and goes in with ease, moving the stock on the slack in the bolt holes, before you do the final tighten on the bolts ;)
Thanks for the advice and tips. Yea, its spring on bb. The mag is working ok. Ill pick on up asap, but for now, its ok. I have to reload every 10-15 shots. A lot better from when i had to reload every 2-3 -_-'

Still shooting like a beast when it feels like it. I had to disassemble it at least FIVE times today. If it wasnt the mag, it was a jammed bb, completely destroyed bucking, and trigger not working (yes, i ruined my brand new systema hop up bucking. Almost ruined my new Prometheus tightbore.

And as for the trigger, silly me decided to try and tighten all of the screws on it. It was instinct. Little did i know, the only possible way it will work is with the middle screw ridiculously loose. Im talking wiggly. So, after realizing the trigger cant be pulles with it that tight, i unloosen it and voila! ... nothing. i Pull back the handle with it all put back together...struggle a bit, trying to push it back...nothing. So, i take it apart...again. Very flustered, i unscrew the second set of screws and *bam!* the bolt comes forward with the slight twist of the bottom trigger screw (as if to take the whole trigger mechanism off) So i try it again. Same thing. I then decided to take the screw out completely. The long metal piece that goes into the cylinder falls down. (the longer of the two silver pieces.) I flip the screw around and i am still unable to pull the trigger with it tightened all the way (what i thinkwas the problem, is when i tighten it all the way, it pinches that long silver thing...dont know exactly why it has to be loose though) Anyway, i put it all back together. I pull it back, a littler harder and not as smooth as when it was working the first time, push it smoothly forward (yes!) And, with a little more force than usual, pull the trigger. Wham. Satisfied me for the moment. I still want to know why its doing that, how to get it smoother, and someone to kick me in the ass for touching it. =(

I suppose i could just buy a new trigger...thingy. Not necessarily the zero trigger, but something, maybe $100, less than that lol ($50 ish)

Anyway, sorry for the rant. Love the gun. Dont regret it at all.

One last thing: adjusting the hopup: I cant do it! Apparently, i need a smaller hex wrench. =( So at the moment, its set a little high...or the previous owner was using heavier bbs causing my AE .25s to skyrocket after 150 feet of pure straight sailing.

Any suggestions on adjusting it?

Edit: Just a little update, the cocking is very nice now. I fooled around with the screws a bit more and its back to the way i liked it before. Also, i removed the safety. Every time i cocked it my hand would bump it and, well, it was very irritating to say the least. When doing so, i noticed that the piece of metal surrounding the cocking handle, the part that is about an inch below the rail, was very worn. So worn that it wasnt smooth when i was pushing the bol back forward. I had to zig zag my way around the little 'bump' that was protruding from where the last owner had apparently rubbed the metal forward. So the solution is fairly obvious: I need to file it down. But how? Any special products that you have found effective? Don't worry, i will google it after i resubmit this but I thought i would see what you had to say about it as well.

See less See more
41 - 60 of 65 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.