Will a 240mm spring replace a 200mm spring work? I can't find any TM L96 AWS compatible springs that will shoot 500 fps and I want to make them at least +-495 <= 500 FPS.
Ah great! The laylax springs I have been looking at and other springs are longer than the stock spring I have and all have the same 13mm outside and 11mm inside. I wasn't sure what spring to upgrade from one of my MB4410 threads, but now I am good to go! Thanks
On the odd occation I have come across a spring that had too many coils that when it was fully compacted, the bolt still was not far enough back to catch the triger sear. But this most likely will not happen to you so I would not worry.
Hi guys, I've bought the PDI 300% spring for my JG BAR-10.
Since it's the Pro version, I have a really hard time cocking the gun, when I have optics mounted on the rail.
Also I think it's too powerful for the gun anyways, so I'm thinking about cutting it a little bit, it also does weird sound, when loading the gun and sometimes it doesn't even cock. Also I think that with this spring the gun fires a little bit to the left. I've tried to put like some M130 to the gun and everything was ok - but not the power of the shot, it couldn't fire 0.36 to a decent distance.
So I'd like to ask, how should I cut the spring to decrease the power, but not to ruin it. Thanks. :nuts:
Well have you already chronoed your rifle? I don't think having a pro version matters :shrug: but it depends on the person. As from the guide I suggest slowly 2 coils at a time and slowly working with it from that point. Spring is not something you would need to really worry about until after you have acquired the appropriate hop up upgrades and possibly trigger unit upgrade.
Would a spring that's cut too short (the Pistons resting position isn't against the cylinder head) effect performance at all? I'm assuming yes because it takes away consistency in the cylinder. Was wondering if anyone who knows more about this could tell me.
I have had some springs that have worn in so much that they are just sitting in the cylinder under no pressure. So similar to cutting them too short. With these springs I still had consistent fps and accuracy.
If you cut them too short in an AEG then the timing can get stuffed up. In an AEG, you do need a little tension otherwise the gun will jam or worse.
Since I need to wait for the initial break-in period before cutting my new spring and I don't have an extra cylinder to leave it in for a few weeks, I just made a little setup out of threaded bar, a couple of lock nuts, and a couple of washers. This should simulate leaving the spring in the cylinder except without needing an extra cylinder. You can get this stuff from your local hardware store for under 5 USD (mine was $2.80). I used 5/16 in. threaded bar and I would definitely recommend not going any larger than that. I hope this helps anyone in the same situation as me :tup:
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