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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, I broke down last minute and bought this AEG as my first sniper rifle, I just needed something that was shooting pretty good out of the box (420-440fps) with .20 bb's (but I used .25 at gameday, don't exactly know what it crono'd at) in addition I actually love the railing system. Also game day was 3 days away so I didn't have time to buy an SBA and get it ready by then.

After using this bad boy I wanted to upgrade it a little, anybody have any info on that? I've been all over the net trying to find anything on it. Would much appreciate it :)
 

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If its Sparkely Brand New and you start taking it apart to upgrade it you do realize it will invalidate you warranty if anything major goes wrong?

Before I right out a long list of things to do it would help me to know how mechanically competent you are at doing some or all of the stuff your self and what your limits are.

Take a look at this and read it carefully most, if not all can be done to your weapon its just a matter of how far you want to take it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Vindi,

After doing some research, the inner barrel is compatible with the m16, would that hold true for the sr25? Oh and I whole heartedly agree with voiding the warranty, I'll probably wait a couple months before I starts. I was just planning on working on my stalking and creeping skills to get close enough to my targets.
 

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jdocsniper said:
Thanks Vindi,

After doing some research, the inner barrel is compatible with the m16, would that hold true for the sr25?
It would all depend on the Hop type that they use, if it is the same as the TM/Element/Systema M16 Hop chamber, then yes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just found out my fiance is pregnant and I don't think I'll be out in the fields on a monthly basis like I thought, more like every 6 weeks. I was thinking of hanging on to my rifle stock and wait until my internals start to give before upgrading. Or am I better off upgrading slowly but surely?
 

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Congratulations mate


Slowly, is always best if your on a tight budget. Its then all in the order you do it in. The first thing I recommend you buy is a Tight bore barrel of about 6.03 or 6.04mm, no longer than 509mm, and if possible to save disturbing it twice a desent hop rubber at the same time. Then start doing the gearbox internals, but we can cross that bridge when you can afford it ;)
 

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Anything over 500mm +/- 10mm is unnecessary as the bb should be stabilized by the time it reaches about 350-400mm down the barrel ( which is why you can get quite acceptable groupings from an M4), the extra 100mm will see it on to target with more accuracy without loosing to much hop effect, any longer, IE. the PSG/+ length barrels, all that happens is that you get friction scrub which reduces the hop effect and therefore range and to a certain degree accuracy. Some try to compensate by using a super tight bore but this can only compound the issue, I did write a a bit about how and why in another couple of links, I 'll go find them and post it here, its worth a read before you go shelling out a babies strollers worth of cash on a barrel ;)

Here you go
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I found out the ar-10 is compatible with the internals of the g&g sr-25, is there a difference between the internal of the CA sr-25 and G&G.

And when you say hop up rubber, is that different from just replacing the hop up?
 

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jdocsniper said:
I found out the ar-10 is compatible with the internals of the g&g sr-25, is there a difference between the internal of the CA sr-25 and G&G.

And when you say hop up rubber, is that different from just replacing the hop up?
Yes, there's a difference between the G&G SR-25 and the CA. Hop up rubber is the part that actually comes into contact with the BB, the hop up simply allows you to adjust the positioning of said rubber, so to speak. The rubber is housed outside of the barrel and inside the hop up.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok here's my shopping list of upgrades for my rifle. I don't intend on doing this all at once maybe someone can help me break this down into groups?
G&P SR-25 L85 Long Gearbox Reinforced Piston.
[Piston_GP_SRL007] $25.00
MOTOR(not sure what kind)
SPRING(not sure what kind)
hop up bucking systema an H-nub or firefly,
Systema Hop up bucking
SCS SPACER
6.03 tightbore
Gears
Digital camo paint job
Cleaning material
Silicon spray
 

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The order should be

Barrel (and barrel spacers if you can fit them)
Hop up, rubber and nub
Gears (I'd recomend high torque or super high torque, as rate of fire should be your last concern. I use Systema super high torque gears in my EBR, standard ratio in the SPR)
Spring (In the EBR I use a Guarder 120 and get just shy of 430FPS out of it, )
Motor (I use a standard G&G High Torque in the EBR and a TM EG1000 in the SPR)

I always spray my guns assembled and mask off the parts I need to keep paint free. Refer to 'paint your wa...gun' in the tech section for advise on this. I believe you've managed to pick the most hardest paint scheme to achieve but probably the most admired when done right (if you like that kind of thing, personaly I'm not a huge digital fan
)

I think most things are covered in my SPR build and 2echo's makeing an M16 more quiet, that will be mostly relavent to your weapon, if you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask :)
 
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