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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I've recently bought an M110 and want to upgrade all internals "mainly air seal" but I am having difficulty finding parts. Any advice or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
My budget for this build is around $400 for internals which should be way more than enough. Please Help! thanks!!
 

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Upgrade to an O-ring nozzle and a cylinder head of the same brand (SHS is good) and a chamber, bucking, and barrel like a ZCI, MR-hop, and Lambda 6.01.

As for gearbox stuff, not really qualified to say much about that lol, so wait for someone else if you want a better trigger response or way higher power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Upgrade to an O-ring nozzle and a cylinder head of the same brand (SHS is good) and a chamber, bucking, and barrel like a ZCI, MR-hop, and Lambda 6.01.

As for gearbox stuff, not really qualified to say much about that lol, so wait for someone else if you want a better trigger response or way higher power.
Thanks for the reply. do you know what size air nozzle cylinder/head i would need?
 

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So the A&K and the CA gearboxes are actually two different things. The CA gearbox is a V2.5 so they could get a longer cylinder to up cylinder volume given the absolutely massive barrel that the M110 sports. When looking for parts I would search for V2.5 instead, but even then the tolerances for CA are a bit different for a lot of aftermarket parts.

I solved a lot of my air seal issues just changing the hop up to a Maxx Hop for M4s (honestly the M110 uses the same as any M4) and a really good bucking.

Personally I would prioritize trigger response over air seal as it will take some time for everything to spool up and fire with as big of a spring as you need to put in. I would go with an ASG infinity 30k motor as they are beasts and I would put a higher gear ratio in like 16:1 or 14:1 but make sure they are good steel parts as they will be under load and the integrated mosfet should be able to handle the pressure from the new parts. Absolutely make sure your shimming is going to be perfect so there is no energy lost and it keeps the system from being super loud and giving away your position.

Lastly if you can find a better piston with a little more heft to it, go for it. V2.5 pistons are a bit hard to find so you may need to get a heavier piston head instead. Make sure you also radius your gearbox because CA never does and you will end up with a cracked gearbox if you do not radius.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So the A&K and the CA gearboxes are actually two different things. The CA gearbox is a V2.5 so they could get a longer cylinder to up cylinder volume given the absolutely massive barrel that the M110 sports. When looking for parts I would search for V2.5 instead, but even then the tolerances for CA are a bit different for a lot of aftermarket parts.

I solved a lot of my air seal issues just changing the hop up to a Maxx Hop for M4s (honestly the M110 uses the same as any M4) and a really good bucking.

Personally I would prioritize trigger response over air seal as it will take some time for everything to spool up and fire with as big of a spring as you need to put in. I would go with an ASG infinity 30k motor as they are beasts and I would put a higher gear ratio in like 16:1 or 14:1 but make sure they are good steel parts as they will be under load and the integrated mosfet should be able to handle the pressure from the new parts. Absolutely make sure your shimming is going to be perfect so there is no energy lost and it keeps the system from being super loud and giving away your position.

Lastly if you can find a better piston with a little more heft to it, go for it. V2.5 pistons are a bit hard to find so you may need to get a heavier piston head instead. Make sure you also radius your gearbox because CA never does and you will end up with a cracked gearbox if you do not radius.
thanks much that helps immensely
 

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Ok so let's start with the front and work your way back.

If they haven't changed the dimensions of the V2.5 gearbox cylinder this should be accurate. Getting all my ratios for the calculation from AirsoftTech.dk - Calculator to calculate, Speed, Rate of Fire, Gearsets, etc. and all of my measurements from my own CA M110 that's about 4 years old now.

To maximize the closest barrel air volume ratio you will want a 6.01 tight bore 650mm inner barrel, which means putting that massive suppressor on the end. The only make I know of that is that big is Mad Bull. I know Fox Airsoft has some in stock (just came from the store)

R Hop the window as soon as you have that barrel. Amped Airsoft has laser cut patches if you aren't savy enough to do that or you can follow this S hop guide for a really cheap and effective R hop replacement.
I am not sure how tech savvy you are but I use the S hops and I love them.

Bucking should be a Mad Bull blue bucking that you have cut to flat hop, or if you are lazy get a Modify black flat hop bucking. The blue gets the better air seal but the black is less work for marginally less performance.

Hop up unit I always select for V2 configurations is the Maxx rotary hop up. Comes with its own R hop curved nub for maximizing that R hop you put in and its fine tuning let's you really dial in the shots.

Now the tough stuff.
The nozzle head has changed since I bought mine over 4 years ago so I'm not sure what size to get. It needs to have its own O ring so I personally go with the Maxx nozzle.

The cylinder head is going to be fractions of a mm bigger than the stock one so you will want a double O ring on it. I again turn to Maxx as they have great quality to their parts and they make some seriously tough stuff so you can abuse it a little. Alternatively SHS makes a piston head that is slightly bigger for a snug fit on V2s but better for the V2.5, it is just made differently and supposedly not as durable, but I have yet to break a cylinder head ever so you are the judge here.

The piston head is up next and you want something with a little weight to it. Without going into it too much: more weight on the piston = better energy transfer to the bb. This will result in a little bit more noise however so it's going to depend on if you want a quiet system or an efficient one. SHS makes a "silent" piston head but it is more weight than anything so it will probably be louder, as will a Maxx piston head, but they have the weight advantage on their side. Lonex makes a lighter piston head with a concave surface that will actually deaden the sound from the air coming from the gearbox, and it will lower your cylinder volume slightly making that perfect air ratio for the barrel that much easier to achieve.

On to pistons. This needs to have a bit more weight to it so it will need to be aluminum and due to the nature of the V2.5 gearbox you need it to have the full 19 teeth. SHS is the only company I know of that makes a full 19 tooth aluminum piston. It will also need a full steel rack because of the hefty spring you will need to push all of this around, polycarbonate will just strip faster.

So the weight of the piston and piston head should correlate to the weight of bb you plan on shooting. Your milage may vary based on the field you plan on running it at but I have found that roughly somewhere between 20 and 25 grams is the best for mid range weights like .32 to .40 and 25 to 30 grams for over a .40. This is for standard DMR limits of 2J.

Spring is going to be whatever high quality tapered spring you find that will be able to meet your desired muzzle velocity. I tend to get ASG springs but thats just because that's what is at my local shop.

I dont remember offhand if the CA Isa quick change spring system, but I'm almost positive it isn't. If that is the case you will need a spring guide that has ball bearing guides on it. I recommend Lonex because it is great and should last a long while. If it is quick change you will need to see what fits the gearbox tolerance and find them with ball bearing guides on them, I know of none off the top of my head.

Gears and motor always work together. You NEED full steel gears. This will be a fail point if you do not get the gears that are tough enough and this honestly could be your biggest investment. SHS is again the go to brand for this but it needs a 19 tooth sector or you will not get the full performance of the V2.5 gearbox. Now you need to select the ratio, mixing torque gears and torque motor is a bad idea given it will pull anything, but be very slow, and mixing fast and fast will be like having a Ferrari try to pull a trailer in 7th gear, it may get there but it will take time and a lot of wasted energy. Pick either the ASG infinity 30k or 22k motors, the 30k being faster and the 22k having more torque, and pair it with a 16:1 gear ratio 19 tooth set. Pick the 22k for less trigger response but a heavier spring, or pick the 30k motor with a less heavy spring and better trigger response.

Make sure you shim this exceptionally well because that is what will keep the noise from the gearbox to a minimum. Everyone shims differently so I cant really tell you how to do it right, but I follow the Airsoft Tech on YouTube every time I shim a gearbox and it has done me well so far. Also make sure to radius that gearbox because CA never does and it's the fastest way to just break the entire thing dealing with that super heavy spring.

I am making a lot of inferences to your build here as well and without actually having it in my hands to see what's going on I can only guess. Make adjustments to your tolerances where needed if they made changes to the gearbox since I have owned mine, such as 18 instead of 19 tooth piston and sector gear if they shortened the gearbox at all.

Man that was a bit of an essay.
 

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So the A&K and the CA gearboxes are actually two different things. The CA gearbox is a V2.5 so they could get a longer cylinder to up cylinder volume given the absolutely massive barrel that the M110 sports. When looking for parts I would search for V2.5 instead, but even then the tolerances for CA are a bit different for a lot of aftermarket parts.
I may be a little lost here but the SR25 also have a V2.5 Gearbox.

To maximize the closest barrel air volume ratio you will want a 6.01 tight bore 650mm inner barrel
You don't want a 650mm inner barrel. That is way too long even for 0.2gm bb's. Here are the ratios I go off for a V2.5 Gearbox:

These ratios take into account Sorbothane
BB weight-----Barrel Length-- Barrel Volume----- Ratio
0.2gm------------505mm---------14336mm3------2.17:1
0.23gm----------502mm---------14193mm3-------2.19:1
0.25gm----------495mm---------13993mm3-------2.22:1
0.28gm----------490mm---------13908mm3-------2.24:1
0.30gm----------484mm---------13708mm3-------2.27:1
0.32gm----------467mm---------13279mm3-------2.36:1
0.36gm----------442mm---------12565mm3-------2.48:1
0.40gm----------414mm---------11709mm3-------2.65:1
0.43gm----------402mm---------11423mm3-------2.73:1
0.45gm----------391mm---------11080mm3-------2.81:1

On to pistons. This needs to have a bit more weight to it so it will need to be aluminum and due to the nature of the V2.5 gearbox you need it to have the full 19 teeth. SHS is the only company I know of that makes a full 19 tooth aluminum piston.
The problem with all the Aluminium 19 teeth pistons is that they are about 2mm longer than plastic pistons. This means that the piston head does not get pulled back as far as the plastic pistons. Also, when I line up the teeth from a yellow plastic piston with the Army Force/SHS 19 teeth aluminium piston, the teeth on the aluminium piston are about 2mm further back. So this means that the piston head sits another 2mm forward. So in total, the aluminium piston seats the piston head about 4mm further forward than the plastic piston. So that is 4mm worth of cylinder volume that is not getting used just by using an aluminium piston. With the yellow 19 tooth plastic piston that SHS sells, you can use the full cylinder volume. Then if you have to add weight, you can add it on the inside where the spring is.

If you do want to use a metal piston, I have an easy fix that only cost the price of an SHS plastic piston.
What I did was I grinded down the rear of the metal piston until it was the same length as the plastic piston. I then took the teeth out of the plastic piston and put it in the metal one. The teeth is in the plastic piston fit in the perfect position and so now I have a metal piston that is the correct length and I can use all of the cylinder volume. I also glued the piston rack in place to make sure it would not move at all. (Have even used this in AEG's up to 3.3 joules)
But overall, the plastic pistons are strong and can handle 3.3 joules.
Ok so let's start with the front and work your way back.

If they haven't changed the dimensions of the V2.5 gearbox cylinder this should be accurate. Getting all my ratios for the calculation from AirsoftTech.dk - Calculator to calculate, Speed, Rate of Fire, Gearsets, etc. and all of my measurements from my own CA M110 that's about 4 years old now.

To maximize the closest barrel air volume ratio you will want a 6.01 tight bore 650mm inner barrel, which means putting that massive suppressor on the end. The only make I know of that is that big is Mad Bull. I know Fox Airsoft has some in stock (just came from the store)

R Hop the window as soon as you have that barrel. Amped Airsoft has laser cut patches if you aren't savy enough to do that or you can follow this S hop guide for a really cheap and effective R hop replacement.
I am not sure how tech savvy you are but I use the S hops and I love them.

Bucking should be a Mad Bull blue bucking that you have cut to flat hop, or if you are lazy get a Modify black flat hop bucking. The blue gets the better air seal but the black is less work for marginally less performance.

Hop up unit I always select for V2 configurations is the Maxx rotary hop up. Comes with its own R hop curved nub for maximizing that R hop you put in and its fine tuning let's you really dial in the shots.

Now the tough stuff.
The nozzle head has changed since I bought mine over 4 years ago so I'm not sure what size to get. It needs to have its own O ring so I personally go with the Maxx nozzle.

The cylinder head is going to be fractions of a mm bigger than the stock one so you will want a double O ring on it. I again turn to Maxx as they have great quality to their parts and they make some seriously tough stuff so you can abuse it a little. Alternatively SHS makes a piston head that is slightly bigger for a snug fit on V2s but better for the V2.5, it is just made differently and supposedly not as durable, but I have yet to break a cylinder head ever so you are the judge here.

The piston head is up next and you want something with a little weight to it. Without going into it too much: more weight on the piston = better energy transfer to the bb. This will result in a little bit more noise however so it's going to depend on if you want a quiet system or an efficient one. SHS makes a "silent" piston head but it is more weight than anything so it will probably be louder, as will a Maxx piston head, but they have the weight advantage on their side. Lonex makes a lighter piston head with a concave surface that will actually deaden the sound from the air coming from the gearbox, and it will lower your cylinder volume slightly making that perfect air ratio for the barrel that much easier to achieve.

On to pistons. This needs to have a bit more weight to it so it will need to be aluminum and due to the nature of the V2.5 gearbox you need it to have the full 19 teeth. SHS is the only company I know of that makes a full 19 tooth aluminum piston. It will also need a full steel rack because of the hefty spring you will need to push all of this around, polycarbonate will just strip faster.

So the weight of the piston and piston head should correlate to the weight of bb you plan on shooting. Your milage may vary based on the field you plan on running it at but I have found that roughly somewhere between 20 and 25 grams is the best for mid range weights like .32 to .40 and 25 to 30 grams for over a .40. This is for standard DMR limits of 2J.

Spring is going to be whatever high quality tapered spring you find that will be able to meet your desired muzzle velocity. I tend to get ASG springs but thats just because that's what is at my local shop.

I dont remember offhand if the CA Isa quick change spring system, but I'm almost positive it isn't. If that is the case you will need a spring guide that has ball bearing guides on it. I recommend Lonex because it is great and should last a long while. If it is quick change you will need to see what fits the gearbox tolerance and find them with ball bearing guides on them, I know of none off the top of my head.

Gears and motor always work together. You NEED full steel gears. This will be a fail point if you do not get the gears that are tough enough and this honestly could be your biggest investment. SHS is again the go to brand for this but it needs a 19 tooth sector or you will not get the full performance of the V2.5 gearbox. Now you need to select the ratio, mixing torque gears and torque motor is a bad idea given it will pull anything, but be very slow, and mixing fast and fast will be like having a Ferrari try to pull a trailer in 7th gear, it may get there but it will take time and a lot of wasted energy. Pick either the ASG infinity 30k or 22k motors, the 30k being faster and the 22k having more torque, and pair it with a 16:1 gear ratio 19 tooth set. Pick the 22k for less trigger response but a heavier spring, or pick the 30k motor with a less heavy spring and better trigger response.

Make sure you shim this exceptionally well because that is what will keep the noise from the gearbox to a minimum. Everyone shims differently so I cant really tell you how to do it right, but I follow the Airsoft Tech on YouTube every time I shim a gearbox and it has done me well so far. Also make sure to radius that gearbox because CA never does and it's the fastest way to just break the entire thing dealing with that super heavy spring.

I am making a lot of inferences to your build here as well and without actually having it in my hands to see what's going on I can only guess. Make adjustments to your tolerances where needed if they made changes to the gearbox since I have owned mine, such as 18 instead of 19 tooth piston and sector gear if they shortened the gearbox at all.

Man that was a bit of an essay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so let's start with the front and work your way back.

If they haven't changed the dimensions of the V2.5 gearbox cylinder this should be accurate. Getting all my ratios for the calculation from AirsoftTech.dk - Calculator to calculate, Speed, Rate of Fire, Gearsets, etc. and all of my measurements from my own CA M110 that's about 4 years old now.

To maximize the closest barrel air volume ratio you will want a 6.01 tight bore 650mm inner barrel, which means putting that massive suppressor on the end. The only make I know of that is that big is Mad Bull. I know Fox Airsoft has some in stock (just came from the store)

R Hop the window as soon as you have that barrel. Amped Airsoft has laser cut patches if you aren't savy enough to do that or you can follow this S hop guide for a really cheap and effective R hop replacement.
I am not sure how tech savvy you are but I use the S hops and I love them.

Bucking should be a Mad Bull blue bucking that you have cut to flat hop, or if you are lazy get a Modify black flat hop bucking. The blue gets the better air seal but the black is less work for marginally less performance.

Hop up unit I always select for V2 configurations is the Maxx rotary hop up. Comes with its own R hop curved nub for maximizing that R hop you put in and its fine tuning let's you really dial in the shots.

Now the tough stuff.
The nozzle head has changed since I bought mine over 4 years ago so I'm not sure what size to get. It needs to have its own O ring so I personally go with the Maxx nozzle.

The cylinder head is going to be fractions of a mm bigger than the stock one so you will want a double O ring on it. I again turn to Maxx as they have great quality to their parts and they make some seriously tough stuff so you can abuse it a little. Alternatively SHS makes a piston head that is slightly bigger for a snug fit on V2s but better for the V2.5, it is just made differently and supposedly not as durable, but I have yet to break a cylinder head ever so you are the judge here.

The piston head is up next and you want something with a little weight to it. Without going into it too much: more weight on the piston = better energy transfer to the bb. This will result in a little bit more noise however so it's going to depend on if you want a quiet system or an efficient one. SHS makes a "silent" piston head but it is more weight than anything so it will probably be louder, as will a Maxx piston head, but they have the weight advantage on their side. Lonex makes a lighter piston head with a concave surface that will actually deaden the sound from the air coming from the gearbox, and it will lower your cylinder volume slightly making that perfect air ratio for the barrel that much easier to achieve.

On to pistons. This needs to have a bit more weight to it so it will need to be aluminum and due to the nature of the V2.5 gearbox you need it to have the full 19 teeth. SHS is the only company I know of that makes a full 19 tooth aluminum piston. It will also need a full steel rack because of the hefty spring you will need to push all of this around, polycarbonate will just strip faster.

So the weight of the piston and piston head should correlate to the weight of bb you plan on shooting. Your milage may vary based on the field you plan on running it at but I have found that roughly somewhere between 20 and 25 grams is the best for mid range weights like .32 to .40 and 25 to 30 grams for over a .40. This is for standard DMR limits of 2J.

Spring is going to be whatever high quality tapered spring you find that will be able to meet your desired muzzle velocity. I tend to get ASG springs but thats just because that's what is at my local shop.

I dont remember offhand if the CA Isa quick change spring system, but I'm almost positive it isn't. If that is the case you will need a spring guide that has ball bearing guides on it. I recommend Lonex because it is great and should last a long while. If it is quick change you will need to see what fits the gearbox tolerance and find them with ball bearing guides on them, I know of none off the top of my head.

Gears and motor always work together. You NEED full steel gears. This will be a fail point if you do not get the gears that are tough enough and this honestly could be your biggest investment. SHS is again the go to brand for this but it needs a 19 tooth sector or you will not get the full performance of the V2.5 gearbox. Now you need to select the ratio, mixing torque gears and torque motor is a bad idea given it will pull anything, but be very slow, and mixing fast and fast will be like having a Ferrari try to pull a trailer in 7th gear, it may get there but it will take time and a lot of wasted energy. Pick either the ASG infinity 30k or 22k motors, the 30k being faster and the 22k having more torque, and pair it with a 16:1 gear ratio 19 tooth set. Pick the 22k for less trigger response but a heavier spring, or pick the 30k motor with a less heavy spring and better trigger response.

Make sure you shim this exceptionally well because that is what will keep the noise from the gearbox to a minimum. Everyone shims differently so I cant really tell you how to do it right, but I follow the Airsoft Tech on YouTube every time I shim a gearbox and it has done me well so far. Also make sure to radius that gearbox because CA never does and it's the fastest way to just break the entire thing dealing with that super heavy spring.

I am making a lot of inferences to your build here as well and without actually having it in my hands to see what's going on I can only guess. Make adjustments to your tolerances where needed if they made changes to the gearbox since I have owned mine, such as 18 instead of 19 tooth piston and sector gear if they shortened the gearbox at all.

Man that was a bit of an essay.
Thank you so much! I appreciate the time and effort you put into this post. I will definitely be referring back to this
 

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I may be a little lost here but the SR25 also have a V2.5 Gearbox.



You don't want a 650mm inner barrel. That is way too long even for 0.2gm bb's. Here are the ratios I go off for a V2.5 Gearbox:

These ratios take into account Sorbothane
BB weight-----Barrel Length-- Barrel Volume----- Ratio
0.2gm------------505mm---------14336mm3------2.17:1
0.23gm----------502mm---------14193mm3-------2.19:1
0.25gm----------495mm---------13993mm3-------2.22:1
0.28gm----------490mm---------13908mm3-------2.24:1
0.30gm----------484mm---------13708mm3-------2.27:1
0.32gm----------467mm---------13279mm3-------2.36:1
0.36gm----------442mm---------12565mm3-------2.48:1
0.40gm----------414mm---------11709mm3-------2.65:1
0.43gm----------402mm---------11423mm3-------2.73:1
0.45gm----------391mm---------11080mm3-------2.81:1



The problem with all the Aluminium 19 teeth pistons is that they are about 2mm longer than plastic pistons. This means that the piston head does not get pulled back as far as the plastic pistons. Also, when I line up the teeth from a yellow plastic piston with the Army Force/SHS 19 teeth aluminium piston, the teeth on the aluminium piston are about 2mm further back. So this means that the piston head sits another 2mm forward. So in total, the aluminium piston seats the piston head about 4mm further forward than the plastic piston. So that is 4mm worth of cylinder volume that is not getting used just by using an aluminium piston. With the yellow 19 tooth plastic piston that SHS sells, you can use the full cylinder volume. Then if you have to add weight, you can add it on the inside where the spring is.

If you do want to use a metal piston, I have an easy fix that only cost the price of an SHS plastic piston.
What I did was I grinded down the rear of the metal piston until it was the same length as the plastic piston. I then took the teeth out of the plastic piston and put it in the metal one. The teeth is in the plastic piston fit in the perfect position and so now I have a metal piston that is the correct length and I can use all of the cylinder volume. I also glued the piston rack in place to make sure it would not move at all. (Have even used this in AEG's up to 3.3 joules)
But overall, the plastic pistons are strong and can handle 3.3 joules.
Man I am glad you showed up. I was super worried about my advice. I have only had my own to work on and everything I had to work with 4 years ago was mostly theory.

The A&K V2.5 was shorter than the CA V2.5 when measured along with the A&K having the radius precut and it lacks any on board mosfet hence why I didn't want to compare the two, especially not knowing OP's level of tech skill, I usually assume beginner tech unless they say otherwise.

That site I referenced was the only guide I have ever had on cylinder volume ratios and was told its best to try to get it as close to 1:1 as possible. Why would you want the ratio to go up with the heavyweight bbs?

I kind of applied the principle of the VMP from the SRS to AEGs for heavy weight bbs and went with a higher weight, hence why I recommended the aluminum piston. I didn't know how tech savvy OP was so I was looking for more drop in parts as opposed to needing to modify them, but I did not know about the piston being that far off. I may have gotten lucky with mine because my CA gearbox is about 14mm longer than the A&K V2.5 compared above.

Looks like I am going to have to reopen mine as everything I recommended I have in my system.
 

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Listen to 1tonne over me, that guy knows his stuff around airsoft guns more than anyone I know. I apparently got a few things wrong.
All good. I too am not 100% perfect. Only a little while ago I got something wrong on here and someone corrected me. So I am not perfect by far.
I have not teched with a CA V2.5 and so there are things about it that I am not 100% sure of.

Why would you want the ratio to go up with the heavyweight bbs?
Heavier bb's need more energy to move and so this comes from more compressed air. So you need a bigger volume for heavier bb's.

I may have gotten lucky with mine because my CA gearbox is about 14mm longer than the A&K V2.5 compared above.
Wow. 14mm longer. I must look into that as I always thought that all V2.5 gearboxes had the same or very similar volume. That is news to me.

This thread may help with Cylinder to Barrel Ratios for your AEG's: (very much worth the read)
 

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All good. I too am not 100% perfect. Only a little while ago I got something wrong on here and someone corrected me. So I am not perfect by far.
I have not teched with a CA V2.5 and so there are things about it that I am not 100% sure of.


Heavier bb's need more energy to move and so this comes from more compressed air. So you need a bigger volume for heavier bb's.


Wow. 14mm longer. I must look into that as I always thought that all V2.5 gearboxes had the same or very similar volume. That is news to me.

This thread may help with Cylinder to Barrel Ratios for your AEG's: (very much worth the read)
The overall gearbox is 14mm longer, I think the cylinder is like maybe 5mm at best, I would have to find my sheet with all of the measurements written down.

That thread is going to be a God send, I gotta find some time to sit down and read it.
 

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I just checked. The Classic Army M110 or CA SR25 are the same cylinder volume as an A&K SR25.
From what I know of, V2.5 gearboxes are the longest you can get.
I am wondering if you were comparing the Jing Gong SR25 to the Classic Army M110. But this only has a 10mm difference in cylinder length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thankyou guys so much for all of the information. I am a beginner at this and any advice you can give me is amazing and appreciated. So next question being is where can I find these parts? Are there online stores that specifically sell upgrade parts?
 

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I just checked. The Classic Army M110 or CA SR25 are the same cylinder volume as an A&K SR25.
From what I know of, V2.5 gearboxes are the longest you can get.
I am wondering if you were comparing the Jing Gong SR25 to the Classic Army M110. But this only has a 10mm difference in cylinder length.
I'll have to find my measurements file on my laptop. Not wonduring if I got a miscasting of the gearbox then, though I can't imagine a difference that big in a casting. I know it is the CA M110 because I got it from my local shop when they were sponsored by CA.
 

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Thankyou guys so much for all of the information. I am a beginner at this and any advice you can give me is amazing and appreciated. So next question being is where can I find these parts? Are there online stores that specifically sell upgrade parts?
Two of the best places for upgrade parts are Evike.com if you can find them in shop due to the shipping shortage from China and Taiwan, or Amped Airsoft for some of the harder to find stuff because they deal with HPA and have some odd parts.

Or try your local shop if you have one so you can support your local field.
 
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