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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When reading over the thread on custom barrels I had a few ideas that I thought were smart, I am posting them here to see if people can troubleshoot them or just tell me they are plain wrong.

1. Setting up the custom barrel: I figured since all that is really different is the OD why not just add some electrical tape or some tape of the sorts to make it the same OD as a normal barrel. With this method you would also have a much better Bucking --> Hop seal as the tape would act as an insulator of sorts and you could thicken or thing the tape to preference

2. VSR-10 buckings in AEGs you could cut a barrel that would accept VSR buckings, with the thinner OD of the barrel I believe you could get the bucking to fit if you trimmed off the Nub/ strip on the side of the VSR bucking.

3. Air seal o-ring: DIE PESKY DENTAL FLOSS, dental floss is an awesome way to seal the bucking to the gun but what if you cut a slit all the way around the barrel where the bucking meets the barrel and fill that with either silicone or a small o-ring so that it would seal with the bucking. The smaller OD of the barrel could allow for that also.

4. Easy LRB in AEGs': I believe this was mentioned in the DIY mods threads but it seemed smart so I wanted to mention it here, Any level of LRB will help consistency so the thinner OD would allow for you to bend it down 1.5 mm or so.

Question: I did not understand how Builder explained splitting the barrel or some such thing to allow the OD to be a normal size. Could someone explain in greater detail?
 

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He said in the thread that he cut off a certain amount and then cut it long ways and forced it onto the outside of the barrel thus increasing the OD.

I'm not sure if electrical tape would be good to use because it isn't very rigid. So that means the barrel could wiggle inside the hop up chamber. Would have to test to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
He said in the thread that he cut off a certain amount and then cut it long ways and forced it onto the outside of the barrel thus increasing the OD.

I'm not sure if electrical tape would be good to use because it isn't very rigid. So that means the barrel could wiggle inside the hop up chamber. Would have to test to make sure.
Yes electrical tape might not be the best but there all manners of things you could use.

Also, VSR buckings tend to be more air efficient and have less blow by. They also have BB retention which means increased hop= increased fps
 

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Also, VSR buckings tend to be more air efficient and have less blow by. They also have BB retention which means increased hop= increased fps
VSR buckings are only more air efficient because of the front rib going into the specialy cut groove in the barrel, which a 1714s wall thickness is to thin to machine into :yup:

Not only that but you would have to design and make a nozzle that would not only feed into the bucking but also push the BB far enough in to prevent jams. 1Tonne and myself had a fair discussion about this about 6 or 8 months ago, he was going to push it further I didn't see the point for the reason I mention below about nub length.

As for BB retention.... you obviously never saw my 'BB on a stick' posts I made a while back, anyone know where they are???, which gave you the correct method to set your hop and nozzle for ultimate BB placement when the BB is at the nub..... and thats any nub.... with any bucking.... with any BB :doh:

Not only that.... Here am I trying to figure out how to get a longer bucking into a VSR hop chamber without air leaks so I can fit a 12mm or longer hop nub like I have in all my AEGs, and then you suggest I fit a VSR hop rubber in my AEGs and go back to the 6.5mm nub I'm currently restricted to in my VSR..... I call Heresy!!

Etape is no good for what you suggest.... anyone who has made Etape barrel spacers for their BASR will tell you it slides about, seemingly of its own accord, in the barrel, in the end not doing what its suposed to and it ends up in this state suprisingly quickly

The Oring idea would sort of work if you had the wall thickness in the barrel, which in a 1714 you dont. Not only that, to gain the efficiency you get from whipping the rubber, the Oring would have to have so much external pressure put on it you either wouldnt be able to get it into the hop chamber without ripping the bucking or you'd strip the screw threads holding the halves together.

The LRB mod has been mentioned by several people when the "builder Barrel" was first introduced as an obvious bonus of the thin walls, the truth of the matter is I've been doing a similar thing to my AEGs using standard diameter barrels by enlargening the internal diameter of the outer barrel for the 7 or 8 years I've now been using LRBs, it just now saves me having to sharpen my long drill bits

Sadly most, if not all, of your ideas have been thought of before, tried and tested in one shape or form long, long ago..... nice try though.... shows your thinking about it :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alrighty thanks for the input it is exactly what I needed. So on to actually mounting the barrel, is it possible and does it work well to run a 17/64 in drill bit down 1/3 of your brass barrel, trim it down to 1/3 and then slide the arrow in. This would make getting the OD easier. That would also give you the correct spacer for an LRB. Finally where is this BB on a stick post?.
 

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Alrighty thanks for the input it is exactly what I needed. So on to actually mounting the barrel, is it possible and does it work well to run a 17/64 in drill bit down 1/3 of your brass barrel, trim it down to 1/3 and then slide the arrow in. This would make getting the OD easier. That would also give you the correct spacer for an LRB. Finally where is this BB on a stick post?.
I'll tell you what I do then you can make a decision from that.....

The drilling out of the brass barrel certainly works but securing the 2 together is a bit of an arse.

I actually use a carbon fibre arrow shaft that I then split in the same method as builder describes he does with the off cut of 1714 barrel.

The reason I do this is that the carbon fibre barrels are 6.08 internal diameter so slide on a bit easier and the wall thickness is about a millimetre, so by the time its spread over a 1714 its not far off the OD of a normal brass barrel.

It then clamps fairly tightly to the 1714 and to finish off I then run super glue around the ends and up the joint until the point where I plan my hop window to start. This seems to work adequatly enough

It also gives you somewhere to centre your hop window without having to remove too much material to do it

Oh, and nice find Rubik ;-)
 

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I'll tell you what I do then you can make a decision from that.....

The drilling out of the brass barrel certainly works but securing the 2 together is a bit of an arse.

I actually use a carbon fibre arrow shaft that I then split in the same method as builder describes he does with the off cut of 1714 barrel.

The reason I do this is that the carbon fibre barrels are 6.08 internal diameter so slide on a bit easier and the wall thickness is about a millimetre, so by the time its spread over a 1714 its not far off the OD of a normal brass barrel.

It then clamps fairly tightly to the 1714 and to finish off I then run super glue around the ends and up the joint until the point where I plan my hop window to start. This seems to work adequatly enough

It also gives you somewhere to centre your hop window without having to remove too much material to do it

Oh, and nice find Rubik ;-)
Care to share a link for said carbon fiber arrow? Gives me some ideas..

Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk
 

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Care to share a link for said carbon fiber arrow? Gives me some ideas..

Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk
Its made by Easton, I bought it at the same time as my X7s, dont remember any more details... I only bought it as a tester only to find it was bigger than I wanted, just so happens it came in handy for the purpose I now use it for :yup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I purchased 4 shafts so I will be testing a few different ideas and see which one is best. I will then write up some sort of detailed walkthrough for that idea. >:D
 

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Just got five 1714 and two 1713 a couple days ago.
Its very hard to get a bucking to fit and seal.
I've tried expanding the diameter using heat shrink, and that didn't work.

Then I tried drilling out a old vsr barrel using a 7mm drill.
I've added some electric tape, to fill the gab between the drilled barrel and the 1713 shaft, but the fit is not very good.

So I'm now trying to make a silicone bucking, that will fit the shaft and the hopup unit, and I'll make it flush so it can fit a r-hop.
If I cant get it to work using r-hop, I think I'll try using the silicone as a full(Normal) bucking.

Edit: Idea from this video:
 
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