Custom Hopup's
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Well, in that case I guess I'll do a cross post with some added details and a pic...
This is what I was playing with last weekend:
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Don't judge the dremmel work too harsh, I was doing this on a whim...
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ID: 6.10mm
OD: 8.12mm
L: 580mm
Unpolished, lightly cleaned, POA Center
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It's a work in progress, but I think it shows some promise...
This is what I was playing with last weekend:
Don't judge the dremmel work too harsh, I was doing this on a whim...
ID: 6.10mm
OD: 8.12mm
L: 580mm
Unpolished, lightly cleaned, POA Center
It's a work in progress, but I think it shows some promise...
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Is that a double hop up that I spy?!
I can see the PDI unit working something great with a barrel like that.
And I was thinking about doing just an aluminum block, and have more of a TDC hop chamber. Where the entire sleve is threaded. And having the nub be more of an O-ring, and have a grub screw apply pressure to it from the top.
I can see the PDI unit working something great with a barrel like that.
And I was thinking about doing just an aluminum block, and have more of a TDC hop chamber. Where the entire sleve is threaded. And having the nub be more of an O-ring, and have a grub screw apply pressure to it from the top.
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Dam! You gota love ingenuity and creative thinking for the greater good!!
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Yes it is! I figured that was the effect that the H-Nub and the SCS go for, so I tried combining it with some principles from the R-Hop and that's what I got. It still needs a lot of work, but this was a proof of concept since I've never seen a barrel with this kind of cut.
Edit: now that I am looking at the picture, I can see why it was pulling left... the cut I made on the left (pic. right) is slightly longer... I think with a mill, or very patient hands, somehting like this would very easily shoot straight and true without any modification/adjustment after installation...
Edit: now that I am looking at the picture, I can see why it was pulling left... the cut I made on the left (pic. right) is slightly longer... I think with a mill, or very patient hands, somehting like this would very easily shoot straight and true without any modification/adjustment after installation...
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I didn't really go into it with ny expectations, more curiosity. The thought came to me through observation. The general design of the expensive "top end" nubs out there are trying to get the buckings to engage the BB at about 10 and 2. The problem is that there is no support in the middle, so you end up with a hard contact at 10 and 2 and this soft spot in the middle. Now, the other direction DIY is generally going is long and soft contact, for lack of a simpler explanation. So what I was going for was minimal surface contact and long exposure at controlled points on the BB.
I am pleased with how it turned out, definite room for improvement, good proof of concept for how crude it came out. I already have ideas of how I would like to build a unit around it with a system that would be very reliable, no real moving parts that would effect the BB itself and would be able to actually adjust to negative hop.
It might actually pull me away from pursuing the R-hop
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I am pleased with how it turned out, definite room for improvement, good proof of concept for how crude it came out. I already have ideas of how I would like to build a unit around it with a system that would be very reliable, no real moving parts that would effect the BB itself and would be able to actually adjust to negative hop.
It might actually pull me away from pursuing the R-hop
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What about instead of doing square windows like that.... you use a large grub screw with a soft nub at the end.
You can go to more hardware stores and get a small bucket of "plasti-dip" It is a plastic substance that you can apply to the handles of tools to give it that rubbery grip. You may be able to dip the ends of the grub screws in this, and us that as a nubbing.
You can go to more hardware stores and get a small bucket of "plasti-dip" It is a plastic substance that you can apply to the handles of tools to give it that rubbery grip. You may be able to dip the ends of the grub screws in this, and us that as a nubbing.
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Or, cut the thingies that separate the windows entirely, and just use a curved shape nub.
Personally, I drop the muzzle end of the barrels in my BASRs about 5-6 mm. I use .3s, though, so you might use something heavier with more bend.
Personally, I drop the muzzle end of the barrels in my BASRs about 5-6 mm. I use .3s, though, so you might use something heavier with more bend.
O I love it, Yumm!
I am going to have to think on how to build a multi point hopup. Initial what comes to mind would be something like a wishbone. And if you did use a multi point hopup why would you need to shim the hopup? Might have to think more into this.
Bookmarked.
I am going to have to think on how to build a multi point hopup. Initial what comes to mind would be something like a wishbone. And if you did use a multi point hopup why would you need to shim the hopup? Might have to think more into this.
Bookmarked.
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Woogie:
I have thought about different ideas along those lines. I like the tune-ability idea, but recently I have been going a different direction, so it would actually counteract the idea of prolonged exposure... unless I'm missing something.
Cheese:
If you cut out the top and make it one hole... you'd have an R-Hop or ER-Hop...
AHP:
Not sure what you're referring to with shimming the hop up... I didn't reference anything... I think, but maybe I missed something...
Here is an analogy of how I am looking at this problem... in principle, not really application. Think about bowling:
Conditions:
Waxed lane
Varying weight balls
"proper" technique
I won't elaborate on the "proper" technique for bowling, but typically there is s spin, be it back or lateral spin that people will use to get the ball to where they want it to go.
With this in mind, a traditional/modern hop up would be like cutting your throw short, releasing at the hip, and flicking your wrist to put a dramatic spin in the ball as it goes down the lane. For some people this works. However, if you watch professionals their movement is fluid and almost slow, they have a long release and a lazy rotation on the ball as it goes down the lane. This is almost the effect that I am looking for in the BB with this hop up.
To paraphrase what I said in my last post: long, consistent, gradual exposure to the hop up is the goal.
But enough about my stuff, I'd really like to see what other people are doing....
I have thought about different ideas along those lines. I like the tune-ability idea, but recently I have been going a different direction, so it would actually counteract the idea of prolonged exposure... unless I'm missing something.
Cheese:
If you cut out the top and make it one hole... you'd have an R-Hop or ER-Hop...
AHP:
Not sure what you're referring to with shimming the hop up... I didn't reference anything... I think, but maybe I missed something...
Here is an analogy of how I am looking at this problem... in principle, not really application. Think about bowling:
Conditions:
Waxed lane
Varying weight balls
"proper" technique
I won't elaborate on the "proper" technique for bowling, but typically there is s spin, be it back or lateral spin that people will use to get the ball to where they want it to go.
With this in mind, a traditional/modern hop up would be like cutting your throw short, releasing at the hip, and flicking your wrist to put a dramatic spin in the ball as it goes down the lane. For some people this works. However, if you watch professionals their movement is fluid and almost slow, they have a long release and a lazy rotation on the ball as it goes down the lane. This is almost the effect that I am looking for in the BB with this hop up.
To paraphrase what I said in my last post: long, consistent, gradual exposure to the hop up is the goal.
But enough about my stuff, I'd really like to see what other people are doing....
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That is an awesome way to think of it bob..... but when it comes to the bowling balls, they have a central core that will help the ball rotate in a determined direction. More weight on one side will cause the ball to hook or slice more. But in theory you have it about right.
Now if we could get a bb that would spin along the proper axis while traveling down the barrel. We would be able to get just about an exact spin with each shot, but then again you would probably be talking about $2.00 a shot or more.
There was one thing that may be of interest to people though. Back when we were all young we all had Nerf guns right... Well I had one that was kind of like a baseball pitching machine. Well it wasn't really shooting all that well so my dad wired it up so we could adjust the two wheels to spin at different speeds. With tweeking the speeds we were able to get some insane shots from the build.
I just though of this and was wondering if anyone had and thoughts on this? You would be able to move the wheels up and down and also adjust the speed at which they spin. So if you wanted to shoot to the moon, just crank up the speeds and get the bb spinning. Then pull the trigger, and have the "puff of air" cause the bb to rocket down the barrel. As soon as it hits the end of the barrel you will see the bb shoot sky bound.
Now if we could get a bb that would spin along the proper axis while traveling down the barrel. We would be able to get just about an exact spin with each shot, but then again you would probably be talking about $2.00 a shot or more.
There was one thing that may be of interest to people though. Back when we were all young we all had Nerf guns right... Well I had one that was kind of like a baseball pitching machine. Well it wasn't really shooting all that well so my dad wired it up so we could adjust the two wheels to spin at different speeds. With tweeking the speeds we were able to get some insane shots from the build.
I just though of this and was wondering if anyone had and thoughts on this? You would be able to move the wheels up and down and also adjust the speed at which they spin. So if you wanted to shoot to the moon, just crank up the speeds and get the bb spinning. Then pull the trigger, and have the "puff of air" cause the bb to rocket down the barrel. As soon as it hits the end of the barrel you will see the bb shoot sky bound.
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In the same way BBs have different densities and air pockets. My thinking is that having a longer exposure on the bucking allows the BB to "find a CG"... somewhat based off of HS5s "vibrations" theory that he talks about on ASM.woogie said:
And I remember those nerf guns. Applying that to airsoft seems complicated, i.e. lots of moving parts. But if you can think of a way to apply the principles I think it would be interesting to see.
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If you have any old hard drives laying around they have a lot of small powerful motors in them, and they'd work off a lot less than a 9v. You could probably rig a resistor on a control board and run off of the main battery too.
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That's what it sounds like. I actually had the idea to model a hop up cut after this not too long ago after seeing an episode of mythbusters:
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I never played football, so I had never seen one before, but if you notice one of the wheels is canted so it actually does give the ball a spin as if someone were throwing it.
For our application it would be different, but follow the same principle. My thinking was that you could have one or even two stationary spiraled or diagonal "buckings", and since the BB is moving, maybe this would create a similar effect? I don't know. I decided not to try it just because of lack of tools money and time since I am trying to pursue this other idea, but I think it would be really interesting if someone was able to try it out.
I never played football, so I had never seen one before, but if you notice one of the wheels is canted so it actually does give the ball a spin as if someone were throwing it.
For our application it would be different, but follow the same principle. My thinking was that you could have one or even two stationary spiraled or diagonal "buckings", and since the BB is moving, maybe this would create a similar effect? I don't know. I decided not to try it just because of lack of tools money and time since I am trying to pursue this other idea, but I think it would be really interesting if someone was able to try it out.
Ok if you are going to mold a hopup to the design structure of that type of pitching machine.
The mechanics of the machine are increasing the accuracy by spinning the football on two axis. The one on the left is distance and the one on the right is CG or "Spiral".
If you are looking at it like a bb, since the bb is a sphere you would have to either make them 90 degrees (I think) from each other or incorporate a threaded barrel to stabilize the CG with the football pitching machine because it would allow for stabilization of the CG.
The one we would need is something like this
The mechanics of the machine are increasing the accuracy by spinning the football on two axis. The one on the left is distance and the one on the right is CG or "Spiral".
If you are looking at it like a bb, since the bb is a sphere you would have to either make them 90 degrees (I think) from each other or incorporate a threaded barrel to stabilize the CG with the football pitching machine because it would allow for stabilization of the CG.
The one we would need is something like this
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