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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DISCLAIMER:
PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE TUTORIAL BEFORE FOLLOWING IT SINCE SOME STEPS OR TIPS MAY BE OUT OF ORDER AND WILL BE UP TO YOUR BRAIN TO REORGANIZE. ALSO, I TOOK THE TIME TO MAKE THIS TUTORIAL AND IT CONSISTS OF ALL MY ORIGINAL IDEAS, WORK, & PICTURES AND DO NOT WISH FOR IT TO BE COPIED AND CLAIMED AS YOUR OWN WORK.


Introduction!
This is pointless you have permission to skip this.

*This is my first tutorial - it is quite wordy, but all input will be appreciated*

So, you just bought your IR-hop or normal R-Hop patch and were going to go buy an M-Nub and then you realized...

"Wait... that's expensive" or "Whoah... why is that flat?"

Well... whatever your reason. I happen to have created a tutorial for those of you that don't want an M-Nub or those that wish to try something that when done right could work better than an M-Nub.
^ (Absolutely no scientific or non-scientific evidence to back that previous statement, but this tutorial is budget-chair-softer approved)

If this was commercially being sold I would describe it as:
"A concave nub to be used in conjunction with an R-hop so that the nub provides even pressure over the entire patch and doesn't allow any side to side deviation (which is probably why you chose to R-hop your barrel to begin with). This product can also be used as a drop-in flat hop or G-hop solution too."

But anyway, here's what you will be creating.
(I apologize in advance for any health conditions that may occur from viewing pictures taken from my so called "digital camera")


Materials/Tools/Hazards There are many types of materials, but this is just what I chose to use.

- R-Hopped or IR-Hopped barrel
- Extra/Spare IR-Hop patches or R-Hop patches.
- Sharp pointy knife thingy (I use an exacto knife)
- Thin sheet of hard plastic (Optional, but highly recommended)
- Fine grit sandpaper so.. at least 120+ grit (Optional)
^This is never stated to be used in any steps during the tutorial, but it can be used to clean up any rough edges.

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The plastic you select must be cuttable with some sense of precision with the pointy knife you selected, so I wouldn't recommend any plastic that is too hard or any blade that is over a foot long. (No Katanas)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Onward My Dear Fellows To The Tutorial What you actually came here for.

From here on in this section I will number the steps. By no means do you have to follow them in this order, but this is just how I did mine.

Step 1:
Grab the patch you selected and the blade of your choice. You will now cut it length-wise (the pink lines) to fit your hopup unit's window - (the square hole the nub pushes down through) and width-wise (the red lines) to fit your hopup unit's window.


Step 2:
Now you have your square cut patch, but the top is still curved and we can't have that now can we. So all you have to do is stand it up and slice down with your sharp object so that it is flat on top.



It should look like this when done.

(Notice how it is close to flush with the top of the window)



Your patch should not be extended into the chamber like it is in the last picture that was just to illustrate what it will look like. It should also not be slanted like that.

Step 3:
So now that you have your nub you can use it just like that, but That doesn't really help you that much. So now you need to add that thin piece of plastic to distribute the pressure over your entire patch.

For this I used these plastic label holders for binders, but use whatever you want. All you do now is just cut a square that matches the top of your patch you made.




Step 4:
Now before you get carried away you need to realize that this patch is 80% of the time too thick (Actual statistic taken by the Federal Burrow of Infestation) and unless you plan on over-hopping .4s you will need to cut it down. You can either cut the patch or the arm. (Or both if it's really bad)

Be careful when doing either of the following two methods. If you take off too much material you can create a "dead zone" where turning your gears doesn't change your hop setting at all.

Method 1:
You can shave off the the piece that is sticking out from the hopup arm. (cut or sand down the spikes that are coming out from the red line) This is normally used to hold the stock nub.

Method 2:
You can take off the plastic square you just cut and cut the patch. Just take off enough so that when the plastic square and the patch are together your hopup arm isn't putting any pressure or a very slight amount of pressure on the nub.

Here are some more pics for reference.



In the above picture the item labeled #1 is the nub and the item labeled #2 is your R-hop patch.

Step 5:
Now that you've fine tuned your patch to have little or no pressure when your hopup arm is in the off position, you can now glue the plastic square to the top of your patch so that it is one piece. And with my horrible French accent I say, "Voila". Now you're done and you can drop your nub in.



Conclusion Heh.. it's funny that you continue to read these since you think they actually say something important.
Since it's concave you should get results at least as good as an M-nub.
Also, because it's made out of the same material as your R-Hop it won't have different durometers, temperature flexes, and such... (I don't know... it made sense in my head :) - basically I'm trying to say that less differences in material tends to be better and more consistent.)

Thank you for taking time out of your chair-softing schedule to read this tutorial and if you enjoyed (or if you despise my existence) please take the time to comment, share, and everything else you wish to do to make this tutorial bigger and better. I hope you actually can put this tutorial to use and if not I hope you at least got a laugh out of it. Anyways... off to get some tea :D

Unsincerely, Torch ;)


P.S. I will be constantly updating and editing this tutorial so it will not be finished for a long time.

P.S.S. I'm surprised you made it this far without taking a coffee break.

P.S.S.S. Stop wasting your time... seriously... There's nothing else down here.

P.S.S.S.S. Okay.. alright.. you win, here take a cookie.

EDIT: Added Disclaimer, Added another picture for Step 2, Changed some words, & Added a picture before the conclusion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Huh... I don't know why? It's in my dropbox in the public folder. If you could provide a screenshot of what you're seeing that would help me troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have you used a M-nub with your R-hop before, and if you did, did you notice a performance difference between the M-nub and your IRM-nub?
I have never used an M-nub for the reasons that A: it's expensive, B: it's flat which kinda defeats the purpose of doing an R-hop imo, & C: I have extra IR-hop material so I figured I might as well use it. :)

If I had the extra cash I would probably still make an M-nub concave like this one. All I know is that I took a stock G&P that could hit a tree 5/10 times at ~120 ft away (that was its max range) and installed a normal length IR-Hop in it with one of these nubs and now I can hit the tree every time at 225 ft + with it shooting at 1J and with EF .28s. If someone has an extra M-nub I wouldn't mind dropping it in to see the difference, but it serves my needs :D.
 

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An m-nub provides soft deformable pressure, which doesn't make your patch deform at all mate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I never stated that an M-nub would deform. The point of this concave design is that it applies even pressure along as much of the R-hop patch as possible and not just lengthwise on one small sliver. With this it applies even pressure along the length and width of the patch.
 

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I'm using an m-nub with an r-hop on my m4, and after testing today it provides perfect pressure (too much actually, got to make it slimmer).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, it will provide perfect pressure on a very thin line at the top, but optimally you would want it to be concave to put that "perfect pressure" along the whole patch. This helps you maintain the concave nature of the R-Hop instead of flattening it out.

I'm not saying this is better than an M-Nub since I've never tested them side by side, but I am saying this is a viable cheap alternative that has great results.
 

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Very nice tutorial. Nicely documented, and nice pics (you actually know how to use a camera! LOL).

At the risk of starting another argument, you will actually get more consistent results by having a thin straight sliver at the top of the patch rather than all around the bb. I mean technically, if the system is absolutely perfect, then uniform pressure on the top half of the bb would work better, but for our purposes, where there are inconsistencies with the roundness of the bb and the hop patch, you will actually make several pinpoint contact points around the bb. If there is any more pressure on one side than on the other, you won't see consistent results, which makes a single contact point on the top easier to predict.

Your reasoning is a little off, but the tutorial is very nice, and the nub looks like it would work well, so I'll stick this in my r-hop database thread later, when I get to a computer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All I know is that it works well for me :). I won't argue about performance until I test the difference between the two with all other variables limited as much as possible.

My plan of doing this was just to provide a viable nub for an R-hop that would use the existing extras you would have if you used something like the Z-kit.
 

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Alright, I added it to the r-hop database.

Yeah, if someone got a z-kit and figured out a patch was a size too small for their barrel and is useless from the start (which is why I tell people not to get it in the first place, lol), this is what they should use the patch for.
 
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