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DMR Buidling - Help Needed

4539 Views 40 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  uller
OK guys.. I just bought an DMR for like 250euros ~ 350 $ . I bought it from my friend which did some upgrades. But Off course thats not all so I am asking you all know.. Here is the "Config"

A&K SR - 25 Full Metal
5KU Air Seal Nozzle for SR-25 series AEG
SR25 Extensive Tappet Plate
Element Hop Up Cushion for AEG
Lonex Hop Up Rubber (70 degrees)
Modify Spring - S150+
Battery 9.6 V ; 4200 mAh ; Dean Conectors
I have optic so thats not needed.

All othes is STOCK !

So it has about 450~500 FPS


Now I am wondering what else should I upgrade ? Or what to change ? And off course I am interesting in current condition,with BB-s . Shall I use 0.36g or 0.43g for this configuration. Off course when I choose to upgrade more I will use 0.43 g for best performance.

In my country its allowed ~505fps and only semi -auto. So take care of that when you put some tips or anything else.
Please give me some advice because I am new in sniper world :)

And off course,from DMR I want RANGE as primary role . If you know what I mean :) Thx !
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I facepalmed so hard there... Why don't you look at what you have in the gun in the way of parts in the first place. I WILL guarantee you that throwing money at a gun will not improve the performance more than tuning the stock parts in the majority of the parts. Quite frankly, I won't say much more as I don't condone spoon-feeding.
If you know what your doing the stock parts will run fine for a while.
goldentrigun said:
metallicafatcat said:
I facepalmed so hard there... Why don't you look at what you have in the gun in the way of parts in the first place. I WILL guarantee you that throwing money at a gun will not improve the performance more than tuning the stock parts in the majority of the parts. Quite frankly, I won't say much more as I don't condone spoon-feeding.
Seriously? There are many more respectful ways to reply to the OP then in the manner that you do. You in no way answered this guys question other then telling him that he is wasting his time by putting money into a gun.

Things to consider when attempting to upgrade a v2 to 500fps.

  • sorbo pads on the cylinder head[/*:m:p40dx63b]
  • air brake piston head[/*:m:p40dx63b]
  • shim the hopup arm[/*:m:p40dx63b]
  • teflon tape the hopup unit and barrel[/*:m:p40dx63b]
  • look for wear on the piston*[/*:m:p40dx63b]
  • gluing the air seal nozzle to the tappet[/*:m:p40dx63b]
  • polishing the cylinder and inner barrel[/*:m:p40dx63b]
  • shimming if the current shim job shows wear on the gears.[/*:m:p40dx63b]
*If there is a bit of wear on the piston consider ordering another as a backup.

IE look at vindis guide as posted above. Also, there are some good guides here on shimming and other stuff if you aren't already familiar with it.
Since when is facepalming disrespectful? Most of that stuff is in Vindi's guide that you talked about. Most of the DMR stuff is just a search away on these forums, and has been repeated several times. BTW, the guide you linked on shimming is outdated. And the suggestion for an air break is moot as the sorbo will dampen the sound and the force transferred. I don't really see the need for one but if you can come up with some numbers, I'll believe you. Maybe I expect too much for people to do their own research these days...
The concept of shimming hasn't changed but the way to do it has been. It's incorrect to shim from the spur gear nowadays. I never said to specifically search, but I have to disagree with that rule because then there is no point in searching...
The ER is only done by HS5 as far as I know and is an additional 45 dollars to have the barrel cut, just for a heads up.
The piston sucks, the aluminum piston head is a no-no, especially with bearings, and there are cheaper cylinders and cylinder heads out there. You'll need a special SR25 cylinder last time I checked anyone. Some good polish will do wonders on the stock cylinder.
SHS would be my personal choice for a piston and a Lonex piston head.
Quite frankly, I use whatever is in the gun when I get it, and work with that, and if after I've done everything I can to fix it and it doesn't work, then I buy parts. I'm fond of the JG piston heads and TMs, but upgrades I like Gaurder.
Just make sure the mouse pad is hard enough that it doesn't deform upon repeated piston cycles.
Just use the stock piston head instead of the one that comes with the kit, it'll weigh too much.
If you don't have sorbo your going to quickly crack the front of your gearbox.
1 - 13 of 41 Posts
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