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So you want a "silent" replica but at the same time you want a slab of metal that reciprocates (creating unnecessary noise and stress)...

Okay.

That piston body is NOT fit for purpose, you want to have some mass for "heavy" bbs.
That cylinder head is trash, the plastic stock one is infinitely better.
Cylinder is oversized, iirc the G36C uses a 229mm inner barrel, the standard 3/4 hole is plenty.
Aluminium compression parts are generally shit, all the stress and vibration is transferred directly onto the gearbox shell, and while V3s are generally much stronger than V2s, in the long run you'll still crack them.
I have the same piston head in one of my M4s and the "improves sound reduction" part is purely marketing, the sound report was exactly the same as with the stock piston head.
Can't comment on the motor, but if you want a somewhat quiet, high torque, cool running motor then a ZCI 22tpa is what you want. I have two Warheads and while they run super cool, they are just as noisy as a SHS HT motor.
You don't even need torque gears, the standard 18:1s are perfectly serviceable to pull a M100 spring. You can even knock a few teeth off while still retaining the full useable cylinder volume and have a shorter stroke (less time for the system to create noise)

From personal experience a wider bore barrel (anything larger than 6.05, by today's standards) yields better consistency than a tighter one.

Shimming needs to be perfect, you need to take the time to eliminate any binding from the piston, tappet plate and all moving parts, which requires experience to do so.

You didn't mention the hop setup, only that you're going to use an Omega tensioner, and it's giga lame as the hop plays a crucial role in getting BBs over there consistently.

And again, I don't see the point in chasing sound suppression when your replica has a (shitty) mechanical blowback gimmick.
 
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