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Most of you probably have your own two cents about AEGs, and I'm getting a DMR. I need a pocket full of pennies (or sunshine), therefore I need help. My DMR is going to be an M4 of sorts. My question is, with a full stock to hold large type batteries, should I get a 4000 mAh 9.6v Nickel - Metal hydride? If not, input would be helpful. One of those would run me around $40. I'm really worrisome my baby would overheat or explode or whatever so reassure me if you reccommend a freakin 11.1v Lithium polymer.
 

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It's up to you. If you purchase LiPos, make sure you build your DMR accordingly. The LiPos tend to require a better electrical system. You will need to install a MOSFET to offset this issue, which would raise the price. This will decrease the trigger-arcing problem that occurs on an AEGs trigger contacts. However, you should get a MOSFET even with a NiMH anyway...
I've never had a LiPo explode on me. Then again, I tend to treat them as gently as I can. Also, LiPos tend to last longer for some reason. I'm not entirely sure of the "why" behind it, but a 2000 mAh LiPo will outlast a 2000 mAh NiMH battery. Theoretically, the draw on electric current should be the same... Regardless, this means you can use a smaller capacity LiPo when compared to NiMH.
 

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It's up to you. If you purchase LiPos, make sure you build your DMR accordingly. The LiPos tend to require a better electrical system. You will need to install a MOSFET to offset this issue, which would raise the price. This will decrease the trigger-arcing problem that occurs on an AEGs trigger contacts. However, you should get a MOSFET even with a NiMH anyway...
I've never had a LiPo explode on me. Then again, I tend to treat them as gently as I can. Also, LiPos tend to last longer for some reason. I'm not entirely sure of the "why" behind it, but a 2000 mAh LiPo will outlast a 2000 mAh NiMH battery. Theoretically, the draw on electric current should be the same... Regardless, this means you can use a smaller capacity LiPo when compared to NiMH.
A MOSFET doesn't decrease the arcing, it eliminates it. Also, keep some sort of mechanical fuse, as a polyfuse will only protect your FET, and not the rest of your system.

The battery information is sound though but be sure to RESEARCH about LiPos because they present an extra risk being more volatile than nickel based batteries.
 

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If you choose to stay with NiMH batteries, a good 9.6v/3000 mah battery may be a better choice than the 4000mah.
The performance will be about the same.

My experience is that the Smart Charger seems to fully charge really well up to 3000mah's.
Go higher than that, and you may end up with a partially charged battery, even when you think it is fully charged.

Also:
- Adding deans connectors to your 9.6v battery will be a nice enhancement.
- Consider having a store like Batteries Plus build you the battery. It will cost you more, but you will get a warranty that lasts several months and includes the connector of your choice.
 

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This kinda depends on your setup.

If you are shooting 400 fps with a .2 or less than just use a 7.4v LiPo. I don't think you would need a MOSFET for it. That's what I run my acr on and it runs great. And the battery is only like 30 bucks or less.

If you are shooting around 500 fps than I recommend a 11.1v LiPo with a MOSFET and high torque motor. That's what I run in my m82 and it runs great, I have had no problems other than it doesn't feed great with high caps. Which I don't care for anyways.
 
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