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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Righto, i got my TM Gspec a while ago, i got it for £60 (problem with the trigger mech and bolt) was a quick fix. However i had to swap the bolt from my BAR 10 into the gspec, as the cylinder head would rip off after a few shots. I'm recently getting double feeding problems from my rifle, i'll pull the bolt back, push it forward and it won't go all the way in, i have to then pull the mag out and let the BB's drop out. It's not really what im wanting, it means i lose a lot of ammo and it can be incredibly annoying when im going for the shot!

I've got ASPUK upgrades (VSR Set) in the bolt and in the trigger mech (sears). I also have a falcon hop up rubber (new). Could this be a rubber problem? perhaps it isnt broken in yet? Or is it a bolt or hop problem?

I am also sure i am not loading it, then cocking it again.


Thanks!
 

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1. Tighten the mag catch screw: If it is loose, it will cause misfeeds. If it is too tight it can cause problems as well though.
2. Check the bucking: If ripped, obvious issues. If it is inside the chamber and squished because it was installed a bit "off" you will get misfeeds.
 

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Firstly better to use a correctly size star bit - I find hex (or allen) keys strip them really easily.

Secondly you don't need to tighten it down a lot - just finger tight. I learned this because I was having double feed issues due to over tightening.

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I bought a second hand bar 10 and the previous owner had totally stripped the rear screw. I use a dremel and a router to cut a slot (but later replaced it as it was gradually disintegrating).,

I have heard that if you super glue a screw driver into the hole this can get it out also. Wait for it to set, unscrew, then snap it off afterwards. Never tried it though!

Other option is to drill it out but I would really avoid that as you could chew up the thread in the stock and then you'd be in trouble!
 

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Turning the screw into a fladhead screw is probably your best bet. I do this to every screw that has a hex head because I always end up stripping them.
 

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If you have a dremel with a circular bit then you can start off the cut and use that slot with a flathead to get it out, then finish it off with the dremel or a saw. You could also use Light's suggested way of gluing a screwdriver to the screw to get it out, snap it off, then saw or dremel in the slot for a flathead.
 

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I must say I have never used the super glue method so no idea if it actually works. Just heard some people do it.

To give you an idea:


However as you can see the large cutting wheel cuts into the wood of the door! Clearly you don't want to do that to the body of the gun.

I used a router to cut the hole wider sideways. Like is said though it needed replacing after that.

Maybe drill 2 small holes, one each side of the current one, so it forms a slot. Would need filing to make it safe to use but ok it you just replace the screw straight away.
 

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I used a small cutting wheel when I stripped my screws. It will only get a partial slot but enough to get it out with and finish it off once it's out.
 

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Then I guess you could try that gluing the screwdriver in trick. Try a glue that will hold it down but will snap somewhat easily like super glue. If that doesn't work, then you can borrow a dremel from a friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Found out some more on my double feeding. In my mag part, theres a hole under the part where the point of the mag goes into the hop. and when im cocking it, i guess more than one feeds into the hop and one falls back and stops the cylinder head from going all the way forward and loading into the hop. I have no idea why this is :( Any ideas? I still need to get the front screw out, but im sure ill find a way.
 
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