Nice collection, I have spent much of the last 3 weeks trying to find a lot of the same information, and you have done a great job of putting it in one place.
A few of questions I am still trying to find answers to:
Good grip upgrade? I have seen a lot of conjecture but not much knowledge. There used to be an adapter for AEG grips, but it appears to be gone. I am about to take mine to Cabelas to do real steel grip shopping. I've been looking at ar-15 and ar-25 grips.
Solid stock upgrade? I use my ASR from the shoulder and I hate stock wiggle. I would like to see this ACE style on an ASR. http://echo1usa.com/English/index.php?ma....6a4gqvk1sm08 n4
Which adjustable stocks work? I have seen CTR type stocks used, although there is some debate as to which will work and which won't.
Last question... Why not 6.01 barrels? I have been looking at different 455mm 6.01 as my next upgrade.
The only 6.01 barrel I had that worked well was a DBcustom that I got on clearance at AEX since DB went out of buisness. Accuracy wise it was better than the Madbull 6.03 that I have in there right now, but required more cleaning.
Wyvernfist and I had that conversation about stocks while we were at AEX. I believe that if you keep the stock buffer tube you can fit an LE style stock on there and just take off the stock stock. However, I am not sure how to remove the stock buffer tube since I've never had a problem with it.
The grip I believe is a standard real steel AR grip, so it should work with any RS grip, NOT an AEG grip... Ill have to check when I get home tonight though to verify that.
In reading your OP I started to think about what DIY stuff I did to mine when I first got it. I got my ASR as a budget build to get into sniping, so I did all DIY mods from the start before I actually started with aftermarket parts.
On the "drive-train" (bolt assembly/trigger box area):
1. Spacer on the spring guide.
I took the piston down to my local OSH and went to my favorite isle (the one with all the little parts, springs, spacers etc.) and got a metal bushing that fit in the piston, about 1/2" long. Took a drill bit and drilled out the center to fit over the spring guide.
Effectively this upgraded the spring for 0.25c
Note that the stock spring is the THIN type.
2. Polish, bore and counter sink the cylinder head.
Self explanatory. The stock head is flared, but it doesn't hurt to spin it in a drill and smooth it out with sand paper and polish it with some brasso.
3. Polish the inside of the cylinder and replace the stock piston O-Ring.
Again, self explanatory. Easiest way to do that is to use a rag over a dowel with brasso. Also, stretching the O-Ring like in Vindis DMR guide helps
Font end (Barrel, hop up, spacers)
1: Polish the barrel
Covered in your OP. I used Brasso and turtle car wax.
2: Electrical tape spacers.
If you do the last few layers tight, almost tight enough that you're ripping it, the tape will actually expand in the barrel and give a really really tight fit
Cost: $1.99 electrical tape if you need to get it.
3: Teflon tape, everywhere!
Hop up, Bucking, threads holding the hop up in, nozzle head, cylinder head etc.
Here is a snippet from my first post (ever) detailing some of the results I had:
I went ahead and got the firefly bucking (the only aftermarket part that I purchased for it) and I am having trouble deciding if I should use the original bucking or the firefly (I know this may sound like a noob dilemma but hear me out)
I have not chronoed it yet, but stock it shoots 470-480, with the spacer I am assuming it is around 500-510. I am using Javelin .36 non-bio BBs and Mad Bull .43 non-bio BBs. For all of the shots the hop up was set all the way down (off?) so turning down the hopup is not an option (unless there are mods to the hop up that I can do that I havent heard of yet)
The firefly has A LOT of hop, I whipped it with dental floss and then wrapped the whole thing with teflon tape before re-installing it.
The firefly is more consistent than the stock bucking.
(2" @ 30' and about 7" @ 90' with no fliers)
Way too much hop to use .36s, can only use .43s
At 90' the BB flight path dips about a foot before hitting target.
The stock bucking was installed the same way (dental floss and teflon tape)
Flight path is flatter over all
I can use .36s (closer range 30'-40') and .43s (longer) and still hold tighter groups
Groups are slightly larger and there is a flier every 4th or 5th shot
(2.5" @ 30' and about 9" @ 90' not counting fliers)