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Echo 1 M28 Future and testing

7251 Views 39 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  dragon64
My Echo 1 M28 arrives on the 16th and like every good gun owner I have already been figuring out what to do to make it unique and stand out from the crowd but not on the field...

So here is my plan...

Gonna leave it stock until I get a real sense of what it can do and what needs to be tweaked. I believe you need to put a few 100 rounds through a gun before you learn all it's quirks.

So as far as my question for you folks. I have used Krylon Fusion in the past with mixed results so I'm looking at 2 other options.

Duracoat and Enamel Model paint since a water transfer is out of the question because of cost.

So have anyone used either of those and what were the results, because I have a few reservations with both, but will see if those don't get answered before I put them on the table.
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Duracoat works AMAZINGLY. I have seen a few Duracoat paintjobs and they are extremely tough. The only problem is that you need to have an airbrush and supplies.
Duracoat works better than the krylon. The problem is, like Silentfurry said, that you need the proper equipment. Some duracoat kit's comes with an expendable aerosol "airbrush", which are crap. Well at least the one I used. There is also a problem with duracoat, it's somewhat hard to find outside the US, so it's more of an problem for European people.
The Airbrush I have so that is covered, should have said at least that much... My main concern is color accuracy if you look at their CADPAT colors they look way off.
That is why I always usel Krylon Fusion.

If you get it wrong just paint over it
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woogie said:
That is why I always usel Krylon Fusion.

If you get it wrong just paint over it
True that... But I have had it wear off easily on some guns and others it held up like a tank. I think it is do to the amount of oil used in the plastic.
You nailed it.... The prep work is key.

That and when it starts to wear off it makes it look better in my eyes.
Looks like some pretty good plans man! Happy hunting =)
woogie said:
You nailed it.... The prep work is key.

That and when it starts to wear off it makes it look better in my eyes.
I think I'm gonna fall back to an old miniature trick and see if it works. I got a batch of poorly cast plastic minis onetime and after a little fiddling I got them to hold paint. May try it on a larger scale and see how it goes. if it works I will post up results.

Now I just need to find Krylon colors that match CADPAT...
The one thing that I remember doing when I paint-balled was to get some material that I liked. Ideally something rather light weight.

Then go to an arts and craft store and find some Mastic, I think it is called.. You can spray I believe the fabric and then place it on the weapon, or vise versa. Make all the seams line up on the bottom of the rifle, so they are out of sight and out of mind.

When you are done you can cover in another layer of the spray and then you are good for a long while.

I would defiantly try it on a small cheap thing first.
That would be kind of cool ...

I just wish water transfer wasn't $500 and that they had CADPAT as a pattern.
So I got it today and it is a heavy well built bugger. Only 2 things that jumped out as being real wrong and one is being corrected.

1- It is missing a piece to hold the Bipod on so I can't even hook it up but I should have the piece in a couple of weeks.
2- Since this looks to be an M700 stock that has been modified to be a spring rifle the door where the gas mag goes pops open easily since the release is in the trigger guard.

Now if you could drop an M700 into the stock it would give you the ability to go from spring to gas all with one stock or if Echo 1 comes out with a gas drop in that would be sweet.


I expect a lot of these guns to be sold and to see them up for sale again because they are a heavy sucker weighing in at around 9lbs. Not a gun you want to carry all day with out a sling. So kids will buy them then resale them because they are too heavy and too long.

6.03 495mm inner barrel has been confirmed shooting results sometime tomorrow. I need to get some vices to make a shooting platform and sight it in. Chronoing at around 515 average out of the box. Huge amount of metal Trigger guard w/funky door, Mag well, outer Barrel, Barrel cap, Barrel extension, Adjustable buttstock, Cylinder chamber, safety, trigger assembly, bipod (harris Style), and rail are all metal. Only the stock and the mags themselves are plastic and the stock is one of the heaviest for being plastic that I have seen.

Comes with:
2 Mags
Flat barrel cap in black
Barrel extension
Orange cap that just popped off
90 round speed loader
cleaning rod
No iron sight so you will need a scope
no manual :evil:
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As soon as I get the mock suppressor.
Yup the CA M24 has that same door. It is mainly for looks, but you should be able to fit a KJ M700 inside the stock. I know it will take a bit of sanding and what not but it will work.
I'm gonna see about locking the door down but not until I decide to break down the gun, which is pending further testing in stock format.

Okay here we go I finally got to fire off rounds where I could see the target.....

Once I get the scope zeroed fully and get it on a bench or get the bipod I think a lot of these numbers will improve dramatically.

Testing factors:
.30 gram KSC Perfect BB ( gonna set the gun to use Bioshot once I'm out of KSC)
Hand Held Standing
3-9x50 Tasco scope not fully zeroed just adjusted on the fly.
2'x2' foam target
Hop up about 2/3 on

100' 9 of 10... 4 in the 2" square one wide right of target. The remaining shots were within 2" of the square.
150' 7 of 10 on the target 2 in the square. 3 missed were again wide right remaining 5 were within 4" of square.
200' No target but a 6" round tree and I was able to hit it 3 out of 10 close to the max range

A couple of things to understand here..
1: Gun was hand held in a standing position in the field you usually have the gun braced on something or are using the bipod so you have a more stable platform.
2: Right hook more than likely caused by me not holding the gun level I had the same problem with my old Bar-10 when you tuck it into your shoulder it can be a common problem and that is why getting the scope level to the gun is important. If you have the scope level and aligned vertically you can then see by the cross hairs if the gun is level or not.
3: Gun has not been tweaked nor clean in any way. Once the barrel is polished and the hop up/cylinder Teflon taped I'm sure that will help a little bit.
4: Hop up has not been fully broken in

So in conclusion I think once this gun is cleaned, tuned, and zeroed in it will perform as well or real close as my old upgraded Bar-10 in it's stock format, but that is still to be seen. Now once I have a full bench test of the gun in stock format I will go in and do some DIY improvements and see how the performance changes. This is not a gun for the weak of heart or strength it is a heavy and long gun and is not gonna be a gun that people will want to truck all over the field with for a full day. I fully expect to see a lot of these bought and back up for sale due to weight alone.

It does out perform a stock Bar-10 and stock L96 right out of the box. It is accurate and has good range and with a few tweaks I think it can perform right up there with the best guns and cost of tweaking it will probably be less since it does so well in stock format.

Full review will be forth coming in the Airsoft Handbook Issue #2
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Thanks for sharing this review of the Echo1. I've been thinking about adding this to my collection. Of course, it's tough when you're just starting sniping, trying to decide what to get.
I really like the gun but clean and polish that inner barrel it is the dirtiest one I have ever seen...
Well, I did it. I ordered the M28 tonight.

I've already started planning out the additional parts and changes to the rifle. Of course, a paint job is on top of my list. I find that Krylon works just fine, with the right prep. I put on a few light coats to ensure good coverage. Then, after completing the camouflage, I apply a few coats of a clear coat to even everything out and help protect the final finish. Works pretty well.
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