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Echo1 ASR HopUp question

4114 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  bobgengeskahn
2
Hello everyone,

I am new to the forum and have been doing a lot of research here and other places before I decided to buy the ASR. The first thing that I did when I received it was to break the whole thing down and start on some mods, here is what I did.

1. Bore out and polish the cylinder head
2. Polish the cylinder
3. Add spring spacer to the spring guide
4. Swiss cheese the piston
5. Polish and wax the stock inner barrel
6. Added 3 barrel spacers
7. Teflon tape mods (tapped everything, hop up, cylinder head, hop up threads etc.)

I went ahead and got the firefly bucking (the only aftermarket part that I purchased for it) and I am having trouble deciding if I should use the original bucking or the firefly (I know this may sound like a noob dilemma but hear me out)

I have not chronoed it yet, but stock it shoots 470-480, with the spacer I am assuming it is around 500-510. I am using Javelin .36 non-bio BBs and Mad Bull .43 non-bio BBs. For all of the shots the hop up was set all the way down (off?) so turning down the hopup is not an option (unless there are mods to the hop up that I can do that I havent heard of yet)

The firefly has A LOT of hop, I whipped it with dental floss and then wrapped the whole thing with teflon tape before re-installing it.
Pros:
The firefly is more consistent than the stock bucking.
(2" @ 30' and about 7" @ 90' with no fliers)

Cons:
Way too much hop to use .36s, can only use .43s
At 90' the BB flight path dips about a foot before hitting target.

The stock bucking was installed the same way (dental floss and teflon tape)
Pros:
Flight path is flatter over all
I can use .36s (closer range 30'-40') and .43s (longer) and still hold tighter groups

Cons:
Groups are slightly larger and there is a flier every 4th or 5th shot
(2.5" @ 30' and about 9" @ 90' not counting fliers)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you need more information just let me know. Also, I know that there has been a severe lack of information on this rifle, so if you have any questions feel free to ask (but please dont hijack my thread!!! if people really want I can do a review with pictures). Thanks!

EDIT: (forgot to state my question
) Is it better to have a level flight path? or is it better to have a potentially longer range and have to accommodate for the dip? On real firearms this isnt an issue cus the flight path takes the bullet up then down... but airsoft is a little... different
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Good Job on taking the initiative to figure out how you rifle works before you even shoot it. Also fixing any problem areas that there might be first off removes alot of variables you have to work with so +1 for that. However there is a problem with waxing the barrel. You want it to be as friction less as possible so my recommendation is get a 6.02 and run, just once some super fine steel wool down it, then using increasingly finer grains wrap sand paper around a cleaning rod then run it through the barrel again once. Work your way down to emery cloth then polish the living shit out of that barrel so that superglue would run off it(don't actually try that, just a figure of speech) then you should have your self a decent barrel which, I think is your problem.
Yeah but this is for the guy who can't get a EDGI or a Dee's or any other of the high quality, frickin-whatever space alloy barrels out there. This is more for madbulls and the like, the sanding provides more of a start for the polishing.
Polishing yes is good, but you want as little friction as possible because:

Less Friction=More airtime.

One problem with using to wide of a barrel is that when the bb comes off the hop it might bounce down the barrel, smooth boar muzzle loaders have a similar problem, the ball will bounce down the barrel and skew off in a different direction each time making accurate fire virtually impossible.
Laylax and prommy barrels are shit avoid them like the plague.
1 - 4 of 16 Posts
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