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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Is the finish really that nice as it looks in the photos? Im liking it so far.
It probably is a little bit more shiny than it actually is due to lighting and conyrady, but it's not extremely far off the mark and the finish is pretty even.

It seems that some of them have a chrome-esque finish, but the listings I've seen online seem to have s black barrel and receiver.
Honestly this is also the first time I've seen a silver/chrome version, there's also a black version put right next to this gun on display at where I found it.


Will be doing chamber+cylinder disassembly and do a cross compatibility check asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
More detailed comparison and testing

18279


Since I do not have an original VSR for testing, the cross compatibility test is done using a T10 and some spare parts I have in hand and might be slightly (but not significantly, probably) off.

Receiver compatibility

18280


While the receiver is on-spec in terms of seating in a stock, due to the narrow stock width a bull barrel cannot be used. It's likely that a tapered VSR can seat into this stock without issues but I cannot verify.

18281


Remember I said about the trigger not being compatible……well it turns out I lied instead. Although the threads are not the same compared to standard VSRs (M2, compared to the M3 of the T10, and M4 of the SSG10), provided you have compatible screws or use the stock screws you can actually attach an aftermarket trigger onto it and it functions entirely A-OK.

18282


However due to the trigger box design if the Fieldcraft, it seems that the stock Fieldcraft trigger couldn't fit into other rifles like the AACT10, even though you can attach the trigger onto it like normal. Anti parts scavenging much? (If you used a regular trigger you can fit the whole receiver into the T10 as usual)

18283


A hex screw slipped during the process of attempting to detach the outer barrel from the T10……rip, good thing I have kept the spare barrel somewhere handy though
As seen in here the receiver thread part is significantly wider, you cannot fit an aftermarket bull barrel onto it at all (not that you can given the stock dimensional limitation). Good thing the receiver is VSR compatible though.

18284


A CYMA 50rd mag and a regular TM mag has been used to check magazine cross compatibility.
While the stock magazine is a snug fit and can enter and leave the mag well effortlessly, the other two mags couldn't fit in properly, and will get stuck even if you managed to brute force it in, you will have to disassemble the gun to get it back out. (In comparison, the T10 doesn't have any of these issues and all mags can be used pretty much normally)

It turns out the stock magazine is about as wide but is slightly shorter than the others (the CYMA is notably longer than a TM one by a really small margin), hence the jammed mags problem. By filing the magwell slightly with a chisel (as seen in here - it was a flat reflective surface), while the stock mag is now a bit loose (but still comfortably tight) while the others now fit snugly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
More detailed comparison and testing Part 2

Cylinder compatibility

18286


Consistency of this is not bad at all, using an M120 spring with 0.43g BBs this rifle can reliably and consistently hop these heavy BBs with only 4.5/10 hop strength, using its stock bucking. Note that the gun suffers from reverse Joule creeping problems so heavier pistons would be needed.

However the air tightness of this rifle is……well let's just say there is no air tightness whatsoever to speak of. Plugging the inner barrel does nothing and no gas is being kept, and the cause of leakage is pretty much "yes". Since buckings rarely cause that severe of a leak (ML MR hop will still hold a bit of air even if they leak out really quickly) so it was assumed to be the cylinder.

18287


Using the Maple Leaf cylinder as a control group would soon conclude that the piston is indeed a source of leakage (and as it turns out, the T10 stock cylinder body is also leaky for some reason).

18289


Previously a prediction was made that the cylinder threads are the reason why the cylinder couldn't accept other pistons, however as it turns out it was the cylinder having excessively thick internal walls, leaving a narrower cylinder width and prevented the use of pistons like the Laylax ones directly.
18291

While it should be possible to file down the POM glide rings, filing it down excessively (0.5mm minimum) isn't too feasible with only sand paper alone, I ended up replacing the O-ring on the stock piston instead for as a stop gap measurement. It ended up solving the sealing issue even inside a foreign cylinder.


18288


Despite having a narrow cylinder chamber, the wall of this cylinder is so thick it's notably thicker than the Maple Leaf one. This extra thickness however doesn't cause the Maple Leaf cylinder to be incompatible with the Fieldcraft's receiver.

18290


This extra thick wall also prevents the use of other cylinder heads (or at least those that I have in possession) and the safe bet is it's better to use the stock cylinder head. To make issues worse, it turned out that the stock cylinder head also contributes to the sealing problem and has exactly zero seal as well.
This lack of sealing is caused by the fact that 1. The O-ring is placed oddly between the cylinder wall end and the flat end of the cylinder nozzle, which provides exactly no sealing properties, and 2. The nozzle end doesn't seem to be seated tightly inside the bucking unlike other nozzles which produce a notable "relaxation" effect when the nozzle is pulled out from the hop up assembly.

Normally replacing the entire cylinder assembly with an aftermarket is the easier choice (since they function normally in this rifle despite the slightly wider receiver diameter), the stock one is of good quality and tossing it away would've been a waste.
To solve the above issues the standard way of doing so is pretty much 1. wrapping a hell ton of Teflon tape onto the cylinder head threads to keep air inside of the cylinder, and 2. Use some softer, flexible tape to wrap around the nozzle so that air is trapped more effectively.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
More detailed comparison and testing Part 3

Chamber compatibility

18292


The chamber seems to particularily shiny and cleanly cut compared to the cast pot metal version made by Action Army.

Everything inside this chamber uses standard VSR components and is fully exchangeable with other VSR things.
18293


Hop up arm is a regular piece of polymer with a stub in the end for pressure provision. (The red arm is the Maple Leaf flat nub version for comparison) This protrusion is slightly deeper than most similar designs and is most likely the reason why this rifle could easily hop even 0.43g BBs even at relatively low hop tension.

18294


The stock bucking has a ramp similar to those used by Nineball purple buckings. Unremarkable otherwise and is very rigid/hard.

The window is a curved, bridged steel barrel 500mm in length (so basically an AWS barrel), chiseling won't do and a saw would probably be required if you need to debridge the barrel. Inner quality is good with no visible dents.

18295


In a previous post I mentioned the Unicorn GBB buckings should be usable on even bridged barrels, and this test here proves this hypothesis to be true.

Hop consistency is good and seal is acceptable after standard moddings for improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Bridged barrel: Sad maple leaf bucking noises.
The good news is, the Unicorn bucking I am testing still delivers excellent results and could nail a smaller than torso target repeatedly (even if it's using a cylinder nub instead of a flat surface nub), so if you don't file/cut the barrel you do have some other choices.
Maple leaf and other companies should also have 500mm GBB barrels you can swap out with, but that's kind of a waste considering how outlandishly good the material choice is used in here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Possibly a final report

18300


Previously it was said the limiting factor of this cylinder's piston compatibility would be the POM rings meant for friction resistance reduction.

After sanding down the POM rings with chisels and rough sandpaper, completed with a final touch using fine sandpaper, the Laylax piston can now slide in and fit properly inside the cylinder. (It is also discovered the stock O-ring is indeed too thick even a strong spring and a Laylax piston still won't seal well).

Doing this however made me realise two things:

1. The Laylax piston is somewhat leaky, but by a very small amount, and 2. The cylinder head is still leaky with lots of Teflon tape.

18301


This is the end result in consistency after fixing some teething problems. As it's seen here the small leaks of the cylinder is regular and consistent enough it wouldn't cause too much problems in fps consistency.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Is the cylinder head threading similar to standard? You may be able to use a lambda or pdi head on there. They're slightly smaller.
The threading is the same for the APS cylinder, just that the inner wall is thicker and it doesn't allow cylinder heads with a thicker "wall" (wtf you call that anyway?) to be installed all the way in.

I could use a PDI but I just am not bothered in buying a new cylinder head at that moment, it should be perfectly possible though
 

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So question for you TenshouYoKu, So you mentioned the field craft trigger fit and functions well on a TM spec vsr receiver/cylinder and all that if you use the stock m3 screws correct? It does not fit in your t10 stock correct? What prevents it from fitting, that sling mount hole stud looking thingy? Do you think it would fit in a regular hunter style stock?
 

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So question for you TenshouYoKu, So you mentioned the field craft trigger fit and functions well on a TM spec vsr receiver/cylinder and all that if you use the stock m3 screws correct? It does not fit in your t10 stock correct? What prevents it from fitting, that sling mount hole stud looking thingy? Do you think it would fit in a regular hunter style stock?
I think that he meant that in order to mount it, you need to use the screws that come with the other rifle.
I.E. you need to use the screws from the t10 with the emg trigger.
A lot of vsr clones have different size trigger screws so you normally need to use the ones that come with the rifle.
 

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I would expect that to be correct.

With my personal receivers, I bore and tap the trigger screw holes at least a size up, usually to M4 screws as they are harder to strip and use larger Allen keys.
For the main screws on the receiver, I usually go for M6 in the middle hole and leave the trigger guard screw the same.
That being said, let the middle screw strip before I re tap it.
 

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Here is my reasoning, this trigger could be the best budget trigger 90deg for the VSR system if it fits the normal stock or if a normal stock could be easily modified to fit one. Tiger111HK has them for $32.50! For this, I may have to just pick one up and try it. I was hoping Tenshouyoko could give some insight before I did though.
 

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Here is my reasoning, this trigger could be the best budget trigger 90deg for the VSR system if it fits the normal stock or if a normal stock could be easily modified to fit one. Tiger111HK has them for $32.50! For this, I may have to just pick one up and try it. I was hoping Tenshouyoko could give some insight before I did though.
Link please?
Cannot for the life of me find it on Tiger111HK.
It is even cheaper than the Archwick one if your info is correct.
Hopefully it proves to be sturdier than the JJ airsoft trigger.
 
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