I found out machining plastics is kind of hard. Here is how it came about.
I went to the bowling alley the other day with the kids. Have you ever seen the ball return where the ball returns on rails that are at like 4 and 8 o-clock. They do that to stabilize the ball since rolling it alone would make it hard to roll in a straight line. It also keeps the ball spinning. That made me think about a hop up.
The premise is what if you spun the bb and the had a relief in the bottom for the bb to settle in like the bowling ball. It would remove friction from the bottom of the bb and reduce the bottom friction which tries to undo the back spin. Then what is you made a few additional relief slots at 10 and 2 o-clock.
In the end straight slots like the falcon barrel and then a channel in the bottom.
The what if you had a hop up which was an o-ring making it easy to support. If you did to want to use a hop up you could plug the whole hop up portion.
The what if you made it so it fits inside a silencer. Silencers have a cylinder and 2 ends that screw together. What you do is get a slightly longer barrel that sticks out into the silencer.
Then you tighten the silencer down. But then you back off the rear cap a 1/4 turn. Then you stick an o-ring o the back of the device and slide the device into the silencer until it hits the barrel and you wedge it on. Then you pin the silencer to the outer silencer cylinder wall with a small machine screw. Then you tighten the outer silencer wall back the 1/4 turn you previously loosened. If you size the barrel correctly the o-ring o the back of the device will now compress into the back side of the silencer wall ad make an air tight seal.
Well I did not want to spend too much time on it so I made something quick and the channels and slots re not sized right and the hop up intercept is suspect. I used Oilon which is a self lubricating nylon used where you need low friction but do not want to use lubricant. Aluminum for those that do not know is very grabby. Not the slickest stuff. Something like this in aluminum may or may not work but I do know brass would be better by far. It is slicker. Aluminum is so dam grabby. Hence a specialty plastic which is ever slicker. Of course machining plastic is tricky since it tends to want to melt and what not.
Anyhow, here it is. The hole for an o-ring to slide though to intercept the bb. A tapped hole in the top to put a set screw to apply pressure to the o ring. Some wide rings to support the device inside the silencer front to back to keep it stable. A deep channel in the bottom to act like a bowling ball return A few small channels to relieve friction a bit higher. Perhaps make the bb spin more consistently and an o-right relive in the back to seal the back of this device against the back of the silencer.
I do not know if it works. It is more of a concept piece. Many posts people talk or show pictures but I prefer to actually show something made, I find it easier for people to visualize. Perhaps making something will inspire people to make something. You can always find someone or a local machine shop to make something for you. Not having equipment is not reason to not make something if you have an idea. All you need is a Visio diagram with measurements.
I have the measurements fro a silence I bought a year back and when I went to get the silencer to put this in I can not find it. I believe I sod them with my vsr parts on ebay a few moths ago. Heck someone out here may even have bought the stuff.
This this part will go untested it is relegated to a concept part. Feel free to use it or ideas from it.
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I went to the bowling alley the other day with the kids. Have you ever seen the ball return where the ball returns on rails that are at like 4 and 8 o-clock. They do that to stabilize the ball since rolling it alone would make it hard to roll in a straight line. It also keeps the ball spinning. That made me think about a hop up.
The premise is what if you spun the bb and the had a relief in the bottom for the bb to settle in like the bowling ball. It would remove friction from the bottom of the bb and reduce the bottom friction which tries to undo the back spin. Then what is you made a few additional relief slots at 10 and 2 o-clock.
In the end straight slots like the falcon barrel and then a channel in the bottom.
The what if you had a hop up which was an o-ring making it easy to support. If you did to want to use a hop up you could plug the whole hop up portion.
The what if you made it so it fits inside a silencer. Silencers have a cylinder and 2 ends that screw together. What you do is get a slightly longer barrel that sticks out into the silencer.
Then you tighten the silencer down. But then you back off the rear cap a 1/4 turn. Then you stick an o-ring o the back of the device and slide the device into the silencer until it hits the barrel and you wedge it on. Then you pin the silencer to the outer silencer cylinder wall with a small machine screw. Then you tighten the outer silencer wall back the 1/4 turn you previously loosened. If you size the barrel correctly the o-ring o the back of the device will now compress into the back side of the silencer wall ad make an air tight seal.
Well I did not want to spend too much time on it so I made something quick and the channels and slots re not sized right and the hop up intercept is suspect. I used Oilon which is a self lubricating nylon used where you need low friction but do not want to use lubricant. Aluminum for those that do not know is very grabby. Not the slickest stuff. Something like this in aluminum may or may not work but I do know brass would be better by far. It is slicker. Aluminum is so dam grabby. Hence a specialty plastic which is ever slicker. Of course machining plastic is tricky since it tends to want to melt and what not.
Anyhow, here it is. The hole for an o-ring to slide though to intercept the bb. A tapped hole in the top to put a set screw to apply pressure to the o ring. Some wide rings to support the device inside the silencer front to back to keep it stable. A deep channel in the bottom to act like a bowling ball return A few small channels to relieve friction a bit higher. Perhaps make the bb spin more consistently and an o-right relive in the back to seal the back of this device against the back of the silencer.
I do not know if it works. It is more of a concept piece. Many posts people talk or show pictures but I prefer to actually show something made, I find it easier for people to visualize. Perhaps making something will inspire people to make something. You can always find someone or a local machine shop to make something for you. Not having equipment is not reason to not make something if you have an idea. All you need is a Visio diagram with measurements.
I have the measurements fro a silence I bought a year back and when I went to get the silencer to put this in I can not find it. I believe I sod them with my vsr parts on ebay a few moths ago. Heck someone out here may even have bought the stuff.
This this part will go untested it is relegated to a concept part. Feel free to use it or ideas from it.
