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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I traded my Deagle for it. Great external quality, plus a bunch of Pmags.

I want to buy an inner barrel for it, but I'm not sure which. I plan to DMR it, and have it shooting 450-470 FPS. I don't wanna over do it on a V2 GB.

Initially I thought of the Prommy 6.03 469mm, but I just wanted to know if a 6.01 is better or not.

I'm now considering a PDI 6.01 469mm.

Also what's the difference between regular PDI, and the Raven barrels?
 

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The quality of the PDI is very good, and the 6.05 has been shown to produce good results. The prommy 6.03 is a very good barrel.

If a bb bounces in the barrel, off-axis spin is induced. This spin will make the bb hook and curve in the air. The tighter the barrel, the higher the chance of off-axis spin being induced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I want to get an M140, and since I'll rarely use full auto, I need good trigger response time. I'm going to use siegtek 14.09s, and a high torque motor.
Two questions for now:
1. Do I want the regular 14s or the Dual sector 14s?
2. Will a JG pull an M140 without problems? I can't find, an Omega anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You seem to have an infinite amount of knowledge with airsoft...

I want to use .30g BB. What would be the proper barrel length to use with that cylinder.

And for future reference, how do you calculate that ratio?
 

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I've been doing this for a very long time, and being in AK, do a lot of chairsofting.

I would say the 455 is a good choice, that is almost a full cylinder, so you should be all set with the 455.

You calculate the volume of the barrel and cylinder (so pi*radius squared*how long the barrel/cylinder from the end of the ports to the cylinder head end is) and then you simplify. It will be like 164.3425234:102.39848712 and you just simplify to about 1.6/1 (cylinder/barrel) which is 1.6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Alright. Thanks man. Final questions before I put in my orders.
1. I found two cylinders. It doesn't say the difference on the pages.

http://www.amazon.com/SHS-Airsoft-S...sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1342317857&sr=1-73

or

http://www.amazon.com/SHS-Airsoft-S...&qid=1342326118&sr=8-11&keywords=shs+cylinder

2.Which piston would be good for my set up?
I know I need full teeth, because the siegeteks aren't helical. I've read that the steel ones are better for high FPS set-ups.
I found several. What are the pros and cons of having more or less steel teeth.
All SHS
-07 Full Steel Teeth
-03 Full Steel Teeth
-15 Full Steel Teeth

http://clandestineairsoft.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_6_8

Also what exactly is pre-engagement?
 

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I can't tell the difference other than the way the grooves are going... I think the second one might have a bigger inner diameter, but I have no idea.

I can't tell you the pros and cons, I don't use AEGs, but I do know that a lot (and I mean A LOT) of people use the 15 steel tooth SHS piston.

Pre-engagement means (as far as I can discern) when your gears are engaging the piston before you actually pull the trigger - so imagine your sector gear isn't at a 90 degree angle with the piston, and is instead at a 70 degree angle with the piston. It will only pull the piston back so far, not to mention it will put excess strain on your internals.
 

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Angle of engagement refers to the angle the the first tooth on your sector gear engages with the piston. You want this to be at the 12 o'clock position. You adjust this by putting rubber washers or sorbo pads on your cylinder head (gluing them).

From: http://chairsoft-press.com/glossary/#preengagement
Pre-Engagement
Pre-engagement is a condition where the sector gear will re-engage the piston's teeth before the piston has returned to its rest position. Pre-engagement can occur both when a barrel blockage prevents the escape of air and the full return of the piston, and when the gun is run at a high rate of fire with a relatively weak spring, where the spring is not strong enough to fully return the piston before the sector gear completes its cycle. By definition, pre-engagement implies that the sector gear will engage teeth forward of the pickup tooth, usually causing damage to these teeth or destruction of the piston. To reduce the possibility of pre-engagement, a stronger main spring can be installed, the piston and sector gear may be short stroked, or the battery voltage can be decreased.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Angle of engagement refers to the angle the the first tooth on your sector gear engages with the piston. You want this to be at the 12 o'clock position. You adjust this by putting rubber washers or sorbo pads on your cylinder head (gluing them).

From: http://chairsoft-press.com/glossary/#preengagement
Alright, thanks for the replies guys. I just ordered All SHS parts, plus the JG Blue, and the siegeteks. I hope I don't F*** up my gear box lol.

Edit: According to the guy who runs ClandestineAirsoft, SHS made many cylinders with different exteriors, with no real difference. The grooved cylinder "seems to have a slightly bigger bore." But it's hardly noticeable. I got it anyways because it will improve the ratio of Barrel to cylinder, if only a little.
 

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Try to get the regular sized cylinder (not talking about bore-up cylinders. For example, normal Systema cylinders are slightly larger in radius). If not, you're going to have to stretch your piston head o-ring or get a slightly bigger one. Otherwise you'll get an air leak there.

Pre-engagement is when the sector gear returns to pick up the piston before the piston hits the cylinder head. There are varying causes such as friction slowing the piston to the spring is not strong enough to push the piston forwards fast enough. You'll know there's pre-engagement when you get bad fps and when your piston gets stripped from the front end. This is usually not an issue for high rps guns. AOE is much more important.

Dual Sector Gears (DSG) are used for short barrels (363mm and less) and requires gearbox modification. That's why Riot came out with normal 10.4 gearset.

Piston..not sure if you need a full steel set or not but note you'll likely be taking off the first tooth and part of the second (after the big pick up tooth) due to AOE.

There are several ways to acheive fast trigger response.
1) higher battery voltage
2) mosfet/ AWS Raptor/ Chimera, etc
3) high torque motor + high speed gearset

Not sure how familiar you are with AEGs, but a good place to learn is Airsoft Mechanics. Search the forum and understand as much as you can before posting... they have a no-spoon feeding policy (you can be crafty like some people though to get pass that).
 

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Your KA M4 gearbox is not rear wired? (i.e. battery in the stock instead of handguard)

As for AWS, yes its been discontinued now, but you can still find them here and there from hoarders. You can also wait for Chimera, the next gen one.

As for mosfets, most, if not all being sold by reputable players use the 3034 mosfet as base. The fet can take a lot of punishment. If you want something abit more fancy, try Extreme-Fire by Gandolf on ASM.

Just don't get AB Mosfets.. they're not recommended for use anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Your KA M4 gearbox is not rear wired? (i.e. battery in the stock instead of handguard)

As for AWS, yes its been discontinued now, but you can still find them here and there from hoarders. You can also wait for Chimera, the next gen one.

As for mosfets, most, if not all being sold by reputable players use the 3034 mosfet as base. The fet can take a lot of punishment. If you want something abit more fancy, try Extreme-Fire by Gandolf on ASM.

Just don't get AB Mosfets.. they're not recommended for use anymore.
No, it's not because I have a LE stock. I wanted the KA licensed M16 but no one had it in stock. So I'm just gonna DMR an M4.
 
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