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Any "full" cylinder or "ak47" cylinder will work.

Shs buckings (hard) work great with the rhop, and they are cheap. Pick up a couple in case you mess one up with the superglue.

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Wondering why you still want to use a 500mm instead of a 455mm inner barrel.

Its been supposedly shown that 455mm gives the best distance/length ratio before it starts decreasing again. Up to you though :)

If you are also buying a R-hopped barrel, why don't you put alittle more $$ for a ER-hopped barrel?

I also hear Lonex A-1 or A-2 motors are good as well.
 

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In my DMR, I have the stock gears that came in my AEG(18:1) and a high torque motor. It will not turn with anything less than an 11.1 battery, though. Trigger response is very fast on an m170 spring, and it is quieter than one might suspect. I would strongly recommend using a stronger motor over a high-torque gear set. A mosfet is essential, I think too. Without the mosfet, I use about 1.8 mA per shot.

Some of this is beyond my direct experience, since I do not use the m4 platform, but I think I can say some things about barrel length: mainly, that it is not always your friend. Mine is long, very long, and my gun probably suffers for it. I can pull some neat tricks with BB weight and what, but a build with a barrel shorter than mine might be more robust and less fickle.

I understand that the M4 airsoft guns have some sort of mechanism that moves the barrel forward and backward a touch as part of the cycle. I suspect it might foul long range accuracy; for the B would still be traveling the distance of a long barrel when the tube was pushed forward. Also, this mech may cause extra vibration during rapid fire, which is sometimes the order of the day. So, on this line of reasoning, I would recommend using a shorter barrel over a longer.

My gunsmith thinks that the wobbly has much to do with accommodating many magazine types, but that a mis-matched mag will cause feed and accuracy problems. Also, you might need to adjust the spring (i.e. shim or stretch) to use a more massive barrel. And, there is a chance--just perhaps this might happen--with your basic V2 gearbox, which is a bit weaker at the front, on your typical stronger spring you might essentially knock the housing apart.

I would recommend against the M4 all together. A G3 does not have the wobbly-barrel design I hear, and neither does the M14 if you can get into the gearbox.
 
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