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First Real Sniper Purchase, what upgrades do I want

3555 Views 21 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  HLD
So I have decided to buy a JG Bar 10, i understand most upgrades but I am interested in the Angel Custom parts offered on Evike. I will most likely being purchasing the following parts from AC and would like some input if people have actually used these and compared them to other brands...

AC Alpha Zero trigger, cylinder head, and piston kit
AC CNC hop chamber
AC 60.1 barrel
AC "W" bucking
Laylax 170 spring
Layla spring guide

Can use the laylax spring and spring guide into the AC piston and it work cleanly?

I have not seen enough about Angel Customs to be completely confident on them. I know some people will say they are a good brand, but i would like an opinion from someone who has actually compared them to other brands.

Would it be better in the long run to get a Marui VSR 10 because of the good hop and barrel, or is there better hop up units available than the stock TM one.

I have not completely decided on anything yet because I would like some response and comparisons, but i would like to keep this rifle on a budget and going all lay lax is just too expensive for me.
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Look into Action Army products, from my understanding they are made to laylax specs. I've used their hopup & trigger unit & they with amazingly.
I can't comment from personal experience on AC because I haven't used them, other than a bucking and it was low quality. I have heard a lot of bad about them & only some good. Search up the AC stuff on here, I believe there is a thread about their quality here somewhere.
Forget all about AC. Their parts are absolute crap 99% of the time when it comes to the VSR parts.

Action Army hopup chamber, A quality barrel (.03-.05, Promey, PDI, Madbull...), a good bucking (nineball, maple leaf), Action Army trigger and piston.

I too suggest looking into the Action Army parts. Infinitely better then the AC parts.

You can also do some mods to your stock chamber if you are handy with tools.
Have you had any personal experience with AC parts plasma? Action army is what I was looking at also but I feel like AC might be just as good.

I first plan on getting the gun, seeing how good it is, next order would be a zero trigger kit and bucking, the hop unit and barrel will be the last thing I buy most likely.
I just want some true comparisons between angel customs and other brands. Not just go by what people have read or heard, they are a new company and that could mean they're good and nobody knows about them, or they're cheap, but I haven't read many things where people have actually compared AC to other brands.
This is exactly what I needed to hear shoushen, thank you very much
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No problem, I knew it was here somewhere, I just had to search for it. :tup:
Also, Action Army is better than Laylax. The have copied some of their designs and then improved on them to make them stronger and work better.
I do have personal exp with them now. I grabbed a used rifle from a guy at my local shop, the rifle was a JG originally. Spent $40 on it, fully loaded with AC parts, new in the box. I feel I way over paid for it after I shattered the piston with AC's own 150 spring... First pull too. The trigger felt like there was 3 tons of sand in it. the inner barrel looks like some one shot BBs covered in 40 grit sand paper through it. Worst part is that they were new in the box, the JG was stock.
thanks for the stories guys, I really do appreciate it. I believe i will definitely stay away from Angel Customs. My friend put his teflon cylinder kit together (spring, cylinder, piston, cylinder head) and it sounds like nails on a chalk board. Definitely convinced after going to see some AC parts in person and from the stuff I've read here.
There are a *few* AC things that are ok if you cant get anything else, there ball bearing spring guide is good, and the hop up chamber, although the AA chamber is MILES better.
I hear Rangers Customs makes some top notch pistons haha.. Also with a lifetime warranty.
I hear Rangers Customs makes some top notch pistons haha.. Also with a lifetime warranty.
Hmmm advertising bussiness you have made.

Sorry Ranger I had to do it. :shot:

On the topic as far as I have been reading the forum most people say no to AC and many are really pleased with AA.
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That's what I'm getting from all the forums, I believe I'm gonna start looking around for the AA parts I need
My setup as a suggestion

I've just put together a BAR10 based on the latest and greatest recommendations on this forum. Actually, most of the credit goes to 1tonne. If you read this: thanks man. Your knowledge and experience shared on this forum takes a lot of the guess work out of building a solid sniper rifle. Also thanks to other members for posting their stuff. I've been able to learn so much before even buying the rifle. The research has been half of the fun.

I know how easy it is to get lost in the myriad of parts, upgrades, setups, mods and tweaks available for the VSR I'd like to show you mine.

BIG disclaimer: don't consider this a 'tried and tested' setup. I haven't been able to field test it at more than about 20 yards. This is also my first sniper rifle. As of now, it's looking very promising and I can't wait to use it in a real game.

Here goes!

JG BAR10 G-spec, the one with the 3-9x 40(?)mm scope. I figured it made a good package. Now I wish I'd spent slightly more to get the bare BAR10 and a decent air rifle scope (e.g. Nikko Stirling). The scope that comes with the JG is probably fine for airsoft though.

S-trigger by forum member Springer, available at customsnipersupplies . More info here:

Price + shipping was very reasonable for me living in Europe. I also like the fact that it was carefully put together by a fellow airsofter. It also maintains use of the safety. Very solid unit. Trigger pull is super light and smooth. I can't compare to the other brands (AA, PDI, Airsoftpro etc), but I recommend it 100%

Action 90 degree piston: It's cheap and came recommended by some people here. I also had difficulty finding other pistons for a reasonable price. I'm not getting a perfect air seal at the moment. Looking into stretching the O-ring some more and using different lubrication. I'm using a light, acid-free machine oil at the moment.

You may want to get a different piston.

Alternative would be the Action Army trigger unit, which comes with a nice piston.

For a brief moment I used the stock piston, modified with a dremel to work with the 90 degree trigger. I guess it could work for a while...but airseal was lacking, the spring was binding inside and it didn't cycle smoothly anyway.

King Arms metal spring guide: I couldn't spot any big differences between spring guides. I'd say get the one that's cheap, available and works with your spring diameter.

Action Army hop-up chamber: A very solid unit, easy to install and get a great air seal. It's obvious why this is a huge improvement over the stock unit.

I'm using the Maple Leaf 75 bucking with the Prometheus Flat tensioner nub (the hard one). Not too happy with this nub: I've had to shave it to make it fit through the hopup window. My main reason for choosing this combination is wanting to get the rifle up and running while I experiment with R-hop.

Action Army 6.03 540mm barrel: It's cheap (I see a pattern here). The length is based on the fact that I'll be using .30 or .33 bb's. I've considered the Laylax 555mm one, at twice the price of Action Army. I'm not mentally prepared to spend twice that amount again on a PDI barrel.

Note: the AA barrel + Maple Leaf bucking requires you to file down the rear 'ring' of the hopup window, effectively making the barrel a 'VSR cut'. Easy to do.

If you plan on using heavier bb's, your optimal barrel length is likely shorter.

Action Army barrel spacers: This may be one of those purchases that I regret. Sure they look nice....but with hindsight the DIY masking tape spacers are more rigid and make it easier to install the inner barrel, since they're locked to the barrel. And it's cheaper. Cheap is nice. I like cheap.

DIY extended silencer: My new inner barrel was sticking out about 40mm. By now it was time for a reality check; I was spending a lot of money on a spring powered rifle that I had never even used in the field. It had to stop. A new silencer + adaptor was not an option. So, I got a piece of PVC tubing and used masking tape to make a friction fit between the tube and the BAR10's outer barrel. Same trick to fit the original silencer end cap to the PVC tube. A little camo wrap and done! I originally intended this as a temporary fix...but it's so nice and solid I'll likely keep it.

Another bonus: the stock silencer on my BAR10 is crooked. It's a good 2mm off center in relation to the outer barrel. Thanks, China. My el cheapo PVC silencer is pretty much dead on. I think I'll implement the Long Range Barrel mod by shimming the inner barrel against the silencer end cap. Easy. Cheap.

Other DIY mods: This cannot be overlooked. You can improve the BAR10 by about 300% with just sitting down and taking a file, sand paper and grease to make sure everything fits and moves properly.

I've done most of the stuff in 1tonnes Advanced VSR Sniper Building Guide, including:

  • smoothening the receiver from the inside. My BAR10 had very ugly seams rubbing against the cylinder. The receiver is made of your standard Chinese buttery soft zinc alloy, so easy to shape with hand tools.
  • filing, smoothening and greasing the bolt handle mechanism. Mine had a lot of play in it and was horrible to operate. It's all good now. Just take it apart and look carefully where the parts get caught, and where you can remove material to make the mechanism tighter. In the long term I might get some teflon shims to go between the moving parts...but for now it's fine.
  • shimming the nylon guide rings inside the receiver with tiny strips of electrical tape. Super cheap and worth the effort. I opted to leave some play in the front guide ring; in my opinion it allows the nozzle to freely find its way into the hopup unit for an optimal tension-free fit against the bucking.
  • 'hollowing out' the nozzle by spinning it in a drill against a dremel and sand paper.
  • making a nice ring-shaped damper out of an old sorbothane shoe inlay and glueing it onto the nozzle

I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff.

One thing I discovered is that it's not a matter of slapping together the most expensive parts. In fact, I somewhat regret not taking the time to get to know the stock BAR10 and starting with the cheapest DIY mods first, instead of succumbing to the urge of building the Awesomest Perfect sniper rifle straight away. Looking at it now, I'm sure you could get it to work quite well with just the stock parts, some cheap materials and a modicum of skill.

Whatever you do, good luck!
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Thank you very much HLD, I really appreciate the response and note taken about using the stock gun, hopefully it will shoot pretty decent out of the box (for 100$) and I will be happy. But like most people with hobbies I have already socombed to the want to upgrade. We all want the best, I will definetly be buying the base rifle first, then the upgrade after just to see how good it is alone. Again, thank you very much for the response.
You're welcome :tup: I like writing about this stuff.

Since you haven't bought the rifle yet, I'd like to add some more:

I haven't seen a Marui VSR10 in real life, but I will say that I'm not blown away by the quality of my JG BAR10. Like I said the reciever is your typical soft Chinese cast metal and it's very easy to strip the various threads, especially the ones that hold the trigger unit. The silencer was off centre. Mine didn't feel nice at all out of the box and required work straight away. Once that is done and it's all put together, it's quite nice to handle.

If you are going to be building your own Ultimate Sniper Rifle :yup:, you will eventually replace everything except the stock (one piece plastic thing), the reciever (glorified tube), the outer barrel (another tube), bolt handle mechanism (the handle and the cap), perhaps the cylinder/nozzle and the silencer.

So in your case I guess the Marui buys you better (?) quality externals and a warm feeling at more than twice the price. For me that still wouldn't be worth it.

Then for something completely different: from what I've read the Well L96 clones are great value for money. A Well MB01C with an Army Force upgrade kit looks like a formidable package and comes out cheaper than an upgraded BAR10. Action Army also makes a version of their hopup chamber for this rifle.

Read this (yup, it's that 1tonne again) -->
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What FPS is the rifle doing? (if you don't know then what is the spring)

Glad my write-ups helped you.
The L96 Army Force kit can be good but it is a lot of work.
What FPS is the rifle doing? (if you don't know then what is the spring)
Haven't had the chance to chrono it yet. The spring is stock. It still has the airbrake. Cylinder pressure dissipates in about 2-3 seconds, so not a perfect seal. The hopup seams to seal perfectly however. I did put extra teflon tape in there to make up for the shorter Maple Leaf bucking.
I'm aiming at about 450fps.
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