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Fixing Up A CM030 (G18C)

10707 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Never Seen
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I bought a CM030 but was not very impressed with its performance at all.:bs: So I looked online at modification and such that I could do to improve my gun. Here is my guide on the Glock 18 AEP.

To start with I upgraded the battery. I choose a 2s 950mah 25-50c lipo. Robot Check

To get the battery to fit you have to remove the safety catch and the foam in the battery area of the frame. I also cut the bottom of the frame out and then JB welded a rail just covering the hole. This gave me about 5 mm more room. Next I followed along with this video. The battery will be wired with micro deans.


While I waited for my motor and mosfet components I worked on the gear box. On the shell I used my dremel to enlarge the slots for the wires, allowing me to fit large 18 gauge wires.

On the inside of the gearbox I cleaned up the shmoo and other junk inside. Next I set the angle of engagement. The piston head got wrapped with some teflon tape to improve the air seal. On my way out of the gearbox I gave it a shim job. Pics of the gear box will come later.

This is all I have done as of now. I have ordered a new motor and waiting for it to come in the mail. I am also getting the components for the mosfet. I will be posting more as the gun comes along. Let me know how I can better improve my guide (first one). Thanks guys.

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Update-1-28-16

Ok so I got my replacement motor in the mail. I open up the gearbox and got it all shimmed up.

Next I corrected the angle of engagement. I did this by making a plastic washer as you can see below. When you do this you will have to file a bit of the second tooth. If you don't do this the (Sector?) gear will grab it and cause it to bind.

Then I added teflon tape around the cylinder head. This will help improve air efficiency. There is little air to work with in the first place, don't need to waste it. I also put some silicone grease over the tape and on the o-ring on the piston.

Cleaning up the rest of the gearbox I grease all moving parts with more silicone grease.

That is all for now. I am waiting on my mosfet to continue on the wiring. Again if you have any suggestion let me know.

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Well done well done indeed. Waiting to hear from your mosfet. Also would that just be a stock motor as like the same one that came with the G18C? What method did you use to remove the orange tip, unless your's didn't come with one?
I don't remember how I got the tip off. The motor is the same motor as the original, no modification to get it to fit except the shaft is to long. I suggest just getting the traxxas 7575 motor. It already has a machined side for pinions with the D shape.
May be a I'll try a new motor some time in the future for a higher performance build, but I've just done reshimming, greasing, polished cylinder, readjusted hop up bucking and teflon fix.
In the next day or so I will be going over my hop up modifications.
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Update-2-8-16

Ok so my Mosfet I bought got lost in the mail. Some other people also asked me to make some fet for them in regular aegs so I am ordering the components off of Newark.

But as for now I done the work on the hop up. I put in a r-hop, custom nub, and made a fixed, adjustable hop up (I know it sounds weird).

Ok so I am not going to explain the r hop because you can find out how to do that all over the place. Just one thing to make sure of it that your patch doesn't extend into the window. If it does your pistol will over hop .28s.

On the way out you should definitely do the floss mod and Teflon mod. If you don't have Teflon that is okay, it does not do as much as the floss. If you don't know floss mod you can find a better video of it somewhere.

Now for the nub. First I sanded off the plastic nub piece there. Then I used an eraser extender for pencils (the ones you stick on the end of a pencil). I cut it to size and glued it to the plastic plate. This is the yellow piece in the photos.

To apply pressure to the nub we are going to glue an piece of eraser to the top of the plate and remove the adjustment wheel. The piece should be about the thickness of 2 stacked quarts or so.

The reason I did this mod because the hop wheel would cause the hop up plate to tilt. This mod has even pressure pushing down on it from the snap on slide. This will prevent any left hooking shots. Keep in mind you will only have hop if the slide is on.

Now for adjusting the hop up. Set up a target at your primary's med. Next load up your favorite bbs. Fire a good burst of round and watch them. If they go sky high you need to sand some of the eraser off, then try again. Rinse and repeat until desired results are achieved. Remember you can always take more off. If you take to much off you have to start over.

That is all for now. Coming up next will be the mosfet.

PS: to fit the battery I had to remove the black porting piece, hence the reason for the black tape.

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This picture I couldn't add because of my limit. Also let me know what you think so far.

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Interesting. Is that an HS5 r hop piece? Interesting method you did with the eraser for the arm. If you could get more pics of it closer, or even a short video of it being used. Good job so far.


Razinger | The one, The only..
No that is not a HS5 r hop patch. It is just the tubing.
Update 2-10-16

Ok so last night I got a little impatient with shipping on my mosfet components. So I wired up the gun without the fet. Now that it is all wired up and ready to go I see how little space is left. My advice to you is to solder your wires to the gearbox and trigger contacts. Then assemble the gun so see how you need to cut the wires, do this so you have the correct length of wire and not trying to cram excess wire in the space you don't have. In the future I might go back in and add a fet.

So if you have any question or comments but them below and I will try and help you out.
Ok so last night I got a little impatient with shipping on my mosfet components. So I wired up the gun without the fet. Now that it is all wired up and ready to go I see how little space is left. My advice to you is to solder your wires to the gearbox and trigger contacts. Then assemble the gun so see how you need to cut the wires, do this so you have the correct length of wire and not trying to cram excess wire in the space you don't have. In the future I might go back in and add a fet.

So if you have any question or comments but them below and I will try and help you out.
So far I mostly hear people saying the range is not that great, but with these modifications, what are you getting?
For me I'm getting 100+ feet stock or so. Tossing in a better bucking and nub will surly do wonders. 150+


Razinger | The one, The only..
For me I'm getting 100+ feet stock or so. Tossing in a better bucking and nub will surly do wonders. 150+
150+ is not very likely.
One or the other I guess haha :shrug:


Razinger | The one, The only..
Perfectly possible with a bit higher fps and a good hopup really, but it needs modifications (tightbore, airseal, possibly spring and motor) to get there.

100' is about the stock range with .2, at least that's what I'm getting with a stock one. A lipo does wonders to the firepower and a tightbore helps with fps. Higher fps than 250 is pretty hard to get though.

And heck, at games they still want to chrono AEPs to check whether they are below 350 fps... I personally think that if I get an AEP to shoot 350+ fps then I deserve to play with it :p
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I have not tested the range and accuracy yet. I assembled the gun and tested it. I had very poor rate of fire. This was due to the extra large wire squishing the gearbox. I am going to rewire the gun with 20 gauge.

I did the rhop mod and used the gun before I did the rest of them. I also feilded it that way. I got about 50 yds with it but it was fairly inaccurate at that distance. I redid the r hop when made the guide. I made sure to radius the trailing edge because I read that can cause minor pinch jams that makes really inconsistant hop up while in full auto.

In the long future I might make a LAM unit to store a 11.1 lipo. I dont want to use a lanyard mod, because I do not like the idea of the wire flapping around on a pistol.

Once it is wired up, I plan on going to my locol shop to borrow their chrono for testing.
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So it has been a while since the last update. I recently worked on this project again. I have made a acrylic box that is jb welded to the base of the gun like a LAM unit. Next I dremeled out the base of the gun so I could use the faux LAM as a battery holder. I can now fit a 11.1v Lipo with ease. Next I am going to be working on cosmetics of the box and gun.
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