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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I have an upgraded (ASPUK parts) Well L96. Admittedly not the best gun or best upgrade parts, but it does well.

One thing that bugs me about it is FPS consistency. It ranges between 510 and 535 FPS with one bolt set and between 350 and 390 with another (used for urban games). I think it may be both bolts that are inconsistent rather than the barrel-hop joint, as I have taped that (FPS of shots increased by 50-60 when I did).

Other people's rifles (some with the same parts) have consistent shots (maximum of 5 FPS apart), which is what I'm aiming for.

Here's a full list of parts I have (from here: ASPUK)
ASPUK Steel cylinder and cylinder head.
ASPUK advanced high pressure piston.
ASPUK advanced steel spring guide.
ASPUK M150 spring (500 FPS).
ASPUK L96 hop unit - I believe it's based on the HP one, not too sure though.
MadBull 6.03x650mm tight bore barrel.
MadBull red hop rubber.
Part of the ink tube from a pen as the nub, as the one that came with the MadBull red rubber over hopped .40g BBs so they were landing behind me..

What rifles do you use, with what upgrade parts (if any) and what FPS consistency do you get?
What methods are there to improve FPS consistency?

Also, could someone recommend me a good AEG rubber and nub to use?

Thanks,
Liam
 

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I have two questions: 1) which version is the barrel, first generation or second; 2) have you trimmed the nozzle-end of the hopup bucking?

PS I wish I could get that much hop out of that bucking with a mad-bull. I am lobbing them on 0.40's really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ported? I've never had the piston head off the piston as it all came ready-assembled in the cylinder as one package.

What's the difference between ported and non-ported (visually and performance-wise)? Would it help with consistency?
 

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Well, I will need to check with my mechanic to be sure, but the ported head applied pressure to the inside of the gasket, helping it to seal. If it is ported, you should be able to see holes in the face of it, otherwise it will be flat.

I reckon the lack of porting might create an inconstant air seal, and you will lose power sometimes for the inefficiency.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just had a look at the bolt set, the separate parts are: cylinder, cylinder head, piston (it's one piece with the only hole being for the spring, the spring and spring guide.

The O-rings are fine and lubricated, so I don't think it's them.
I've put Teflon tape around the cylinder-cylinder head joint, still yet to try it though.

If it's still not sorted, it must be the hop unit causing it. I'll have a look at that and if I can't solve it, then it may be time to get some LayLax parts.


Still curious as to how consistent other people's rifles are.
 

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Just had a look at the bolt set, the separate parts are: cylinder, cylinder head, piston (it's one piece with the only hole being for the spring, the spring and spring guide.

The O-rings are fine and lubricated, so I don't think it's them.
I've put Teflon tape around the cylinder-cylinder head joint, still yet to try it though.

If it's still not sorted, it must be the hop unit causing it. I'll have a look at that and if I can't solve it, then it may be time to get some LayLax parts.

Still curious as to how consistent other people's rifles are.
Sounds like thats a non-ported piston, a ported version will not only increase consistency but also fps by a small amount, you can tell 1 by the ring of small holes around the face of the piston head.

You say the Oring is lubed, but with what??? there are alot of people out there that swear by 'this' grease or 'that' oil, but generaly a thin lube will need replacing more often and also give variable fps, but keep fps up for the short time it is working (it is also more likely to end up spattered all down your hop and barrel aswell, and that is bad!) or a heavy grease, this slowes piston travel a small amount but stays in place better and provides a better, more constent seal.

You could also try stretching the piston Oring, I desribe how-to in my AEG DMR guide stickyed at the top of the AEG section

It might also be worth checking the hop rubber/nozzle seal.... if this is slack in any way your doomed to get blow-by causing inconsistent fps

Forgot to add.... all of my guns are within 5fps of the chosen power at absalute worst, if they're not I keep rebuilding them until they are.... usualy achieved by shimming the spring 1mm at a time :shrug:

Just something to bear in mind when your doing this is it is always harder to achieve consistent fps in higher power rifles than in lower power ones, as the seals are not under so much pressure, so the better you make the seals the more consistent your gun will be in the end, regardless of the fps you will also gain in the process :yup:
 

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Right then! Talked to my mechanic. He agrees it is probably an air-seal problem, and finds the piston head suspicious of not being ported.

He also said the tappet plate may be sticking and not coming fully forward, creating a bad seal sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Sounds like thats a non-ported piston, a ported version will not only increase consistency but also fps by a small amount, you can tell 1 by the ring of small holes around the face of the piston head.

You say the Oring is lubed, but with what??? there are alot of people out there that swear by 'this' grease or 'that' oil, but generaly a thin lube will need replacing more often and also give variable fps, but keep fps up for the short time it is working (it is also more likely to end up spattered all down your hop and barrel aswell, and that is bad!) or a heavy grease, this slowes piston travel a small amount but stays in place better and provides a better, more constent seal.

You could also try stretching the piston Oring, I desribe how-to in my AEG DMR guide stickyed at the top of the AEG section

It might also be worth checking the hop rubber/nozzle seal.... if this is slack in any way your doomed to get blow-by causing inconsistent fps

Forgot to add.... all of my guns are within 5fps of the chosen power at absalute worst, if they're not I keep rebuilding them until they are.... usualy achieved by shimming the spring 1mm at a time :shrug:

Just something to bear in mind when your doing this is it is always harder to achieve consistent fps in higher power rifles than in lower power ones, as the seals are not under so much pressure, so the better you make the seals the more consistent your gun will be in the end, regardless of the fps you will also gain in the process :yup:
It's lubed with silicone grease I believe, it was done last time I used it, a few weeks ago by someone at my local site.

I'll have a look at stretching the o-ring on the piston.

About the hop rubber-nozzle seal, there's an o-ring in the hop chamber to help with that.

Right then! Talked to my mechanic. He agrees it is probably an air-seal problem, and finds the piston head suspicious of not being ported.

He also said the tappet plate may be sticking and not coming fully forward, creating a bad seal sometimes.
I've put Teflon tape around the cylinder head thread.

I think I'm going to replace all the internals again. PDI hop chamber and barrel, and everything else Laylax.
Or is it better to do all PDI? If so, which cylinder set is best to get?

It's an L96, I'm pretty certain it doesn't have a tappet plate :)

Anyway, I'm now off to test it again. Will post back in a little while with results.

EDIT:
Just been outside to test, now doing 516-535 FPS. So not much improvement there.
Adding more grease to the piston caused it to range from 511 to 537 FPS, which is worse.

I think I'll just have to get some Laylax parts..
 

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Have you done the dental floss mod to the hopup bucking to prevent blowby? What do you mean by having an O-ring in the hopup chamber? Do you mean you have an O-ring on the cylinder head nozzle? I've observed that the most common place for my air leaks is between the cylinder head nozzle and the hopup bucking. I've fixed this with the dental floss mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ach! I have been thinking about an L85. You are on your own.
Sorry, I had to laugh at that! No worries, I was wondering what you're on about in a few places!

Thanks for help anyway. A lot of what you've said has applied, apart from the ported cylinder head, that really confused me.. Also the tappet plates!

Either way, I've done the best I can with it now, added tape and grease in various places. It's still just as inconsistent.

Time to get Laylax internal parts, PDI hop up and external parts.
One question, what bucking and nub would you guys recommend to go with the PDI hop and barrel, shooting at 500 FPS?

Also going to sell the parts I have now, someone else can deal with that inconsistency! :)
 

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hardest bucking you can find for airseal and an R-hop, im trying to get one into my gas L96. everything i have seen and heard about them makes them seem amazing. as for the nub you can just use the softer stock nub with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think I've just over confused myself reading about R-hops, ER-hops and some other random things that just added to the confusion.

The ER-hop requires you to extend the opening in the barrel and the chamber, but the R-hop doesn't require modifications to neither the barrel nor chamber? Am I right in saying that or have I read it wrong somewhere?


If I need to cut or do anything like it to chamber or barrel, then I'm going to leave it, simply because I'm good at messing things up.


If the R-hop works without modification, can someone please explain (and possibly post a link) how it works and what I need for it to work with the PDI chamber?
From what I gathered when reading, the R-hop takes a bit of rubber that sits in the opening in the barrel. Then you put a hard hop bucking on as normal, use a soft nub that covers the whole opening. This then provides a more stable, consistent hop?

If that's right, I have a few questions:
- What holds the R-hop in place and stops it from falling into the barrel? Surely if you add more hop for use with .4s then the hop arm will push it into the barrel itself?
- What nub will work with this? Will the one that comes with the PDI chamber work?
- I know the PDI chamber has two arms, will this effect the R-hop?
- How much better is this than the standard idea of PDI chamber with soft bucking?

Sorry for all the questions.
 

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as someone who has yet to make a succesful one, but read the entire 60 odd page guide on airsoft mechanics several times, what you think is generally correct.
1. most people after they tune the r-hop glue it either to the bucking or the edges to the barrel.
2. just about any nub will work, including the stock ones
3. i cannot say as i do not have a spring BASR
4. by most people's estimation you get 15-20% more range and accuracy out of a R-hop, while an ER-hop generally puts you in the 20-30% range. (note, these are my conjucture of reading everyone else's testimonials, i do not know of any solid empirical testing)

the biggest thing to do with a R-hop or ER-hop is use much heavier then normal bbs. course since we are sniping that is already a given.
 
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