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Discussion Starter #1
Here is my project thread for my newly acquired TM VSR 10.

After getting the rifle, I needed to get down to the cylinder unit and cut down the spring to ensure the FPS will be below 500. I then decided to do a whole cleaning of the cylinder unit, and regrease everything with some of my favorite stuff, white lithium grease.

I also decided to redo the teflon tape mod on the cylinder head and regreased it with some white lithium grease as well. I made sure to clean out the inside of the head as well to make sure no gunk got in there.



I then realized that the piston's o-ring was extremely loose. It could almost slide up and down the piston itself.
So I took a spare o-ring I had lying around and snagged her on there, and greased it up to provide some better seal, as well as cleaning off the old grease and applying some new to the piston itself.



The spring guide came next, and I cleaned her up, added some grease and it was good to go. This part was easy!





Next up, the cylinder itself. Took a little while to get all the grease out but once I did, I was able to put some white grease on and dab it everywhere and rub it in, for extra smooth bolt pull.
At the same time, I cleaned the bolt handle up and made sure it was ready to go.



After all this, I cut the spring down two coils, and I hope this is enough, although no big deal, I can do it pretty fast at the game and will bring my tool box. ;)



That is all for now, as I stayed away from the hop up. Stay tuned though, a few mods and stuff should be on the way over the next few weeks or so.

I'll post pics once I get them uploaded so don't worry, they will be here, patience!!!
 

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What spring are you using? There's an easy way to tell what the joules are going to be if we have the type (foot/pounds, or other form of measurement), and you won't have to rush during your game.
 

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Are you making another vsr long pistol, or are you going to keep the normal length?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
awagg said:
What spring are you using? There's an easy way to tell what the joules are going to be if we have the type (foot/pounds, or other form of measurement), and you won't have to rush during your game.
No clue, perhaps Dutton knows.
I have a MAG 130 spring on the way that will replace the current spring on monday.

And hidden, its my first VSR so how can I be making another. ???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
woogie said:
Looks good man. Keep us updated and in the "loop"
Will do, just checked paypal and I almost have enough for a teflon cylinder plus head combo.
I am trying to save up using pure money from sales relating to airsoft, that way I have money for other things as well. Slow and tedious process. ;)
 

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I believe it was an SP170 that was in there, but it's several years old. I think the box for the spring was in there, which had the stock spring in it, so whatever that says is what it should be.
 

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woogie said:
I made the VSR pistol ;)

Looks good man. Keep us updated and in the "loop"
Aw man I always mix you two up, sorry bout that. Now that I think about it fuzzy always has been a L96 guy.
 

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I find that with metal spring guides that unscrew and have ball bearings, under stress from heavy springs, will unscrew by itself. Best way to fix this is loctite. A slightly unscrewed spring guide takes up space in the cylinder and will stop the piston locking back, which will cause bolt slamming.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Haha, Hidden, I am shifting gears.

And toomanybbs, you are right. The metal guides always unscrew, but not enough for mine to slam fire. I never thought about actually fixing that problem, as it never actually "hurt" me. However, I will definitely look into that. Thanks for the tip!
 

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woogie said:
Heck fuzzy, you and I have been bouncing between both of them for a while now
Amen. ;) Hopefully I can finally settle down.

Also, turns out the o-ring I was using was too tight, so I put the old one back in. Much better compression, and shots were going further than 30 feet.


However, front body pin is somewhat stripped and refuses to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update!

Toomanybbs, I ran into the bolt slamming problem, applied some blue loctite and fixed that up. The spring guide seemed to be slowly coming undone and started causing some problems.

At the moment I have a front pin that refuses to come out. In the mean time I cleaned the barrel (with it still in the gun), and taped the spring guide stopper, as it was coming out a bit causing the cylinder unit to lock back after getting cocked. I also taped up the back end of the receiver to the lower hand guard area. The part is somewhat loose so I taped it up to keep it together better. Zip ties did not work, but the tape job seems to do it some justice.

I am getting some pretty good shots off right now, and for not being able to get down to the hop up chamber yet, I am somewhat satisfied.

The mags have to be held in for 100% feeding, a pain in the ass, but I will see if I can put some tape in the magwell for some tighter fitting mags.

Once I get the new allen wrenches, I will take her down to the hop up chamber. As of now, I have to wait, unfortunately.

Will post some pics of the tape mod above tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update!

The allen wrenches needed to be metric in order to get that screw out without a hassle. Just needed to head out to the local hard ware store and pick a set up.

Shortly after taking apart the hop up chamber, I installed a fresh nineball bucking and put everything back together. After some test shots, I realized the hop up arm was not doing anything and I was getting severe hop down. I took apart the chamber, and made sure to do everything correctly, and make sure it was all aligned properly.

Did this for around 6 hours and went from being able to carry .4s up, to at the very max setting, carry .28s relatively straight. I did lube the mags so it could cause a bit of problems, so I took everything down one more time.

I plan on shimming the hop up (if anyone has some pics of theirs that would be great), as well as cleaning the mags up, the bucking, and the barrel. I was able to get the arm to move well in the chamber and once I reassemble everything (waiting for a new SP 130 spring to come Monday), I will see if the arm actually does anything this time around.

I felt like the arm could not apply any pressure to the bb, so I added a nub to the arm and that seemed to help add some pressure to the bucking. Any thoughts on this? Just a standard AEG nub. I have not been able to try it yet.

In the meantime, since I have to weight for the new spring to come, I took the time to do some DIY mods to help make the gun more quiet.


^I used some foam that I had lying around from an old school project, and stuff them in the stock. Stuffed around 15 of them in there in total.



^Added some cotton ball foam stuff to the other areas of the stock, as well as the butt pad (below)


Put some tape over top of the cotton filled areas so that nothing got caught in the receiver or such.


Some old goggle sticky foam to the top end of the stock. Fits great.


Added some nice and tight barrel spacers.




Cleaned and recleaned the cylinder unit, re-taping the cylinder head.
 

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Ahh yes, the foam mod. That stuff will do but trust me the high density foam works better. Plus I am glad to see that you are not using spray foam, or worse expanding spray foam. I hate it when people use that thinKing it will make a difference. A fella at my site did it and it literally made no difference whatsoever and it nearly cracked the stock. Actually it wasn't at my site it was at one in dublin.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Agreed, I used what I had. Part of this project is being able to take ordinary house hold objects and apply it to my rifle. The foam is packed in there good, and really helps make the rifle feel better balanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update!

Shimming:

First off, I went to the hard ware store, and unfortunately, no brass shim stock was available. However, I decided I could use something that I had at home, and that was note cards (suggested in Rick's linked thread). All you need is some note cards and Elmer's glue!



Note cards, being thicker than standard paper, seem like the perfect fit. Nice and smooth, and can allow for the arm shim to not get in the way of adjusting it back and forth. But at the same time, it keeps the arm from moving freely.





I applied some glue to the bottom of the shim and flattened it out with a flat head screw driver (more steady/smooth than using your fingers.)

I moved on to the arm next, and carefully cut out another shim.





I still need to let the glue dry before testing to see if the note card is too thick to allow the adjuster piece to slide in there.

Next up, the more tedious shim job.





Two pieces, was easy to do, just a tad more time consuming.

And here is all three shim jobs together:



Total time was roughly 15 minutes, very easy to do, and can be re-done if necessary! Only things you need are scissors, note card(s), glue, and a somewhat steady hand. I also found a phillips head screw driver/flat head screw driver was useful for cutting holes and flattening out shims.

And here are the finally finished barrel spacers, perfected. Each one can reach out to the outer barrel, providing zero wobble/vibrations:



 
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