Airsoft Sniper Forum banner


14067 Views 22 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Star_folder

My pride and joy. Currently she shoots right at 560fps with .25s, the upper limit for the state in which I play, South Carolina. My L85 is the hardest shooting replica on our fields, and as such I have gone out of my way to have special permission from all the admin of the state and the local field admins to double check that they are ok with having a gun shooting as hot as mine does. As such, I have taken a special 150ft MED. I have been around long enough, and have proven myself that they have no problems with my gun shooting so close to the limit.

The consistency is +/-.5 fps (that's half of one fps). And like I said in my introduction post, I am able to make body shots at 400ft if the need ever arises. Currently, my furthest measured and confirmed "kill" is just under 300ft.

Internally, I've kept the elongated piston in favor of the larger amount of air, and I have kept the precocking, allowing for instantaneous trigger response.

As for upgrades internally:
G&G Special Nylon Co-Alloy 18 tooth piston
Modify Polycarb piston head
GURU Upgrade cylinder head
Guarder Full Steel PSG-1 Cylinder
Modify S170 Spring
unknown brand ball bearing spring guide
Modify 8mm solid steel bushings
SHS R85 gears
JG Blue motor
Extreme-Fire Cheetah Mosfet
Wired to deans with 16 gauge wire
Prometheus Neo-Strike Chamber
KWA 2GX bucking with the mound removed
Prometheus 6.03 550mm barrel
G&G L85 O-ring air nozzle
Firefly Hard Buffer Rubber

King Arms CASV
NC Star 3-9x40 scope
lead pipe to protect the extra barrel length
Magpul rail covers
Magpul RFG
Vltor bipod

Custom mods include:
Custom shaped pistol grip, I used Bondo.
External barrel stabilization using foam and electrical tape.
I had to modify the gun a little to accept the CASV rail system.

Internal mods:
#14 piston o-ring
new air nozzle o-ring
sanding the tappet plate
sorbo on the cylinder head to correct AoE
teflon taped the cylinder head
tapping the spring to remove the *sproing* spring noise
sanded tappet plate
Floss modded the bucking
stabilized the inner barrel
shimmed the hop up arm and gears
trimmed the hop up gears so that they hold their hop better
stabilized the barrel within the hop up chamber
shimmed the gears to perfection including motor height
soldered wires to the motor
extended the hop up window in the barrel
extended hop up contact patch
modified flat nub to properly and evenly apply pressure to the bucking and contact patch.

I use an 11.1v 2000mah 20c lipo. Because of the special rails, this is the largest battery I can fit in the gun. Thankfully the precocking system gives me exceptional trigger response, and removes the need for a larger battery.

I use .43g bbs, right now I'm specifically using Javelin bbs.

As for noise, the gun isn't as loud as one would expect. Using the .43s, and the slightly longer barrel allow for a very slight over volume. As such, the *pop* of the gun is quiet consider the fps it pumps out. As it stands, It's quieter than some stock guns, but by far, it's not the quietest gun on the field. Simply put, if I'm shooting at you, outside of 100ft, you are more likely to hear the bbs whizzing by then the actual sound of my gun firing.

And to wrap things up, I've often called it my rail gun, as many times running through the fields I play at, I'll look down and am greeted with this sight:

Makes me feel like I'm holding a rail gun or some sort of laser rifle.

Anyway, I'll wrap this up with some pictures from a previous time.

See less See more
1 - 8 of 23 Posts
Ah, you need to reread it my friend, I said plus or minus half an fps, not five fps. If you've got any suggestions on how to make it even more consistent, then I'm all ears.

Hmmm, it would seem that I didn't specify which mod helped in the reinforcement of my gearbox. I simply use a patch of 70D 1/8in Sorbothane Pad. It is a shock absorbing foam. It absorbs the shock of the piston slamming into the cylinder head, and dissipates the force over a longer period of time, taking a good amount of stress off of the gearbox. At the same time, it corrects the AoE of the gears and piston, allowing for a near perfect contact area.

I agree about the smaller scope. However, the smaller scope was a 1.25-4x zoom, and that just wasn't cutting it any more for the extra long ranges, so I had to upgrade to the cheap 3-9x, though, that was to see my .4s... Now that I'm using black .43s, I may switch back to the shorter scope.

All in all, I've put well over 1 grand into the gun. As it sits right now, to build an exact replica, would cost over $1,000.
See less See more
No, I agree with you about the inaccuracy of chronographs. And just so we're clear, that's a total of 1fps variance shot to shot, not just .5. And I do have a good friend with an SR-25 who also gets the same consistency that I do. Basic point is it is very consistent fps wise. Regardless of what the fps actually is, my chronograph tells me that that my fps does not fluctuate until you get past the decimal point.
Yeah that made no sense to me. But, it's fine, I'm a very patient guy and I enjoy answering questions, especially about my own guns.

I appreciate the kind words Woogie.

inthetallgrass, don't worry, you are the first to fall head over heels for my gun, nor will you be the last. Believe it or not, but I've had people confess to adding it to their screensaver images, desktop wallpaper, and one guy even confessed to having a dream about it.
Ah, I know, I've tried/played with the idea of putting a barrett style flash hider on the gun, but it never turned out well, or just flat out didn't happen. I still may put one on one day, but for now, it's simply a barrel.
I like the bipod. Its solid, and does what I need it to do. At first I was a little put off by how much wider it made my gun, so I didn't use it for a while. But then I got to one of those "I spent $50 on a bipod, I had better be using it" moods. Though to be quiet honest, I hardly ever use the thing. It's really there more or less for looks.

The lead pipe is held in place with duct tape and electrical tape. I agree that it's an odd weight to put onto the front of the gun, but now that it's there, I don't care to remove/replace it. It's in there such a way that it's almost not worth the work required to remove the pipe, as it sits at the base of everything that is holding the outer barrel steady within the rail system.

I'll see about getting a video of her shooting next time I'm in an area to take one.
See less See more
kapnobatai said:
Hello [email protected], I really need your help: I found the king arms casv m but I need to know the inner dimensions, I have to fit a 3 cells LiFe battery (25.9 Diameter x 65.2 (L) mm per cell). I managed to fit it in the default handguard after removing the funny aluminium plate there and cutting the plastic spacers for it. I would looove this ka casv but I have to know if it will take my battery :( anyway gorgeous response and rof with this battery. the second problem, I know you mentioned you have installed a cheetah mosfet, do you have any idea if the aws raptor will accomodate? (i want it for the rof limitations) thank you and if anyone is interested in the discussion please jump in, great rifle..cheers
What brand L85 do you have?

The battery I use is 4x1.375x.25inches, approx 100x35x6mm. It has 3 cells that I arrange, wrapped around the barrel. If your battery is nunchuck, or brick style, it would probably fit above the barrel, however you'd have to leave it in the gun.

The AWS Raptor won't fit, the L85 doesn't have a standard trigger system. However, I want to suggest using the Extreme-Fire over the AWS. The Customer service that Extreme-Fire provides is second to none, and the Extreme-Fire mosfets are just as feature rich as the AWS mosfets are.
Thank you. And South Carolina isn't near as large as other states. We're rather dwarfed by North Carolina and Georgia. We've got about 200 active airsofters, and most are under age.
1 - 8 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.