Airsoft Sniper Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am currently shooting a bar 10 at 550 fps with a 6.01 tightbore and an airsfoft gi extreme bucking. What sort of diy mods are a must?? Also any general tips from those more experienced? Finally, if anyone here is located in CO I'd love to play with you guys sometime.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,193 Posts
The best way to learn to act like a sniper on the field is to practice, practice and practice again. I would advise you to look up sniper training manuals and study it. I used a US Army Sniper training manual and its techniques still give me an advantage over other snipers I have met on the field.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,159 Posts
TDC adjuster (guide thread on this forum),
full-length home made barrel spacer,
complete air seal, including teflon tape on cylinder head and bucking,
dental floss mod
shimmed hop-up unit...

and remember high quality washed ammo!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,893 Posts
The dental floss is basically tying floss around the bucking to create a better air seal. You only need this if you want more fps, which won't do much for you. You can find a guide on the TDC mod in my sig, it is a very good idea to do it. You can also follow the guide on the one piece wax barrel spacer LRB, minus the LRB for now. The wax spacer has proven to be one of the most effective in both performance and cost, and is easy to do. As for the hop arm shims, you basically use something as a spacer, be it strips of (my favorite method) scotch tape, aluminum foil, or brass shim stock. The idea is to center the hop arm over the bucking and give it no side to side play. Some people also shim the inside slot but if you do the TDC mod you won't need to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,893 Posts
The paper would work for a tubular outer barrel but assuming you have the tapered (cone shaped) barrel you have to use the wax instead. The wax IMO is better than paper simply because it gives the barrel less room to move around. The LRB has a bit of a complicated explanation but this is one of those cases where it is easier done than said. The whole deal of bending your barrel sounds difficult but really all you need is a small wedge jammed in the muzzle and you are good to go. I would suggest you start with the r-hop before you go to the LRB though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,893 Posts
It is a rubber patch that you put in your barrel's hop window under the bucking. It gives backspin to the bb slower and much more stably than a conventional bucking mound. It also seperates the contact rubber from the airseal (the bucking), so you can get a great hopup while still maintaining a seal. You can buy the r-ops from hunterseeker5's website (don't have a link offhand). I'm actually a bit surprised a guide hasn't been made for r-hops here yet. I could go into more detail but you can just look through the posts in the general section and you'll find a lot about the r-hop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,893 Posts
Here are some vids Reezo made on installing the r-hop http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5079

There is also a DIY nub you are supposed to use with the r-hop. The idea is to replace the stock nub on the hop arm with a soft and sqishy nub like nerf dart foam. You can take a piece of the foam and roll it into a half cylinder, so when you glue the legs to the arm there is a half cylinder of foam being pressed ino the bucking. If that is confusing I can paint a picture for you (no sarcasm). The reason you want it soft with an r-hop is because you wan equal pressure over the entire hop patch, so the stock plastic fanged nub just won't do.

As a side note, I have the r-hop right nw and it works great, but I'm going to have Cheese install the er-hop for me. It is an extended r-hop, hence the "e", but you need to cut the hop window in your barrel to be longer, which is why I will let someone else with the right tools do it. Once that happens I will LRB my rifle and see how that works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,893 Posts
you need to take off the original nub completely, then put the foam on. If you keep the plastic nub then it won't compress, foam or not. You could also get Cheese's hop arm that comes without a nub, which will let you keep your stock arm with the original nub in case you want to switch back to the bucking alone. If you do the TDC mod though, which I highly recommend, then you can get this arm instead: http://www.shapeways.com/model/598165/vsr-tdc-hop-arm.html

The only difference is it doesn't have the slot for the slider adjuster, but without the slot it will be more durable and you won't need the slot with the TDC mod anyway.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top