Groupings
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What internals do you have? What fps are you using? Who manufactured your gun? Give us something to work with.
Whether you use soft or hard is all personal preference no matter what the fps. While hard does wear out much slower than soft, it doesn't get as good groupings as soft. I use nineball not because of the air seal (or at least i used to) but because it does get good groupings. Now I have the r-hop so I use my nineball for the sole purpose of the air seal though.
There is such a long list of things to do to get better consistency with shots I can't list them in one place without making this an extremely long post. First get a large budget if you want to truly maximize your consistency. Tell us your setup and we might be able to suggest a few things.
Whether you use soft or hard is all personal preference no matter what the fps. While hard does wear out much slower than soft, it doesn't get as good groupings as soft. I use nineball not because of the air seal (or at least i used to) but because it does get good groupings. Now I have the r-hop so I use my nineball for the sole purpose of the air seal though.
There is such a long list of things to do to get better consistency with shots I can't list them in one place without making this an extremely long post. First get a large budget if you want to truly maximize your consistency. Tell us your setup and we might be able to suggest a few things.
K, I have a WELL VSR 10 with the following upgrades.
*FALCON rifled 6.03 TB
*Marui precision chamber and bucking
*Home made barrel spacers all up the barrel. they're quite tight in there. (Made of Gun cleaning rag,foam and tape)
*Stock cylinder
*Action Army Piston
*Laylax sp150 shooting around 480 FPS (getting a SP190 very soon)
*stock spring guide
*Action Army Zero Trigger
I am making an order off ehobby consisting of
-PDI cylinder
-the new REAPS bucking or a Nineball (depending on if they come back in stock)
-SP190 spring as mentioned above
If I do need anything else just let me know
Budget isn't a problem, just gotta save up a little
*FALCON rifled 6.03 TB
*Marui precision chamber and bucking
*Home made barrel spacers all up the barrel. they're quite tight in there. (Made of Gun cleaning rag,foam and tape)
*Stock cylinder
*Action Army Piston
*Laylax sp150 shooting around 480 FPS (getting a SP190 very soon)
*stock spring guide
*Action Army Zero Trigger
I am making an order off ehobby consisting of
-PDI cylinder
-the new REAPS bucking or a Nineball (depending on if they come back in stock)
-SP190 spring as mentioned above
If I do need anything else just let me know
Budget isn't a problem, just gotta save up a little
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184 Posts
Have to say having all the upgrades doesn't make the rifle accurate...it helps,but you will only get it very accurate from tweaking all the parts for your rifle.Which we cant tell you how to do....
You can do all the mods and add all the parts you want but unless you can tweak it yourself for how your rifle works then nothing will help.
Put it this way we had a guy at my site that threw cash at his vsr,and bought every part possible,but did little work on the rifle himself..the end result was a bar10 out the box could preform nearly aswell and cost a fraction of the price.
The only parts you really need are for durability,(sears,piston) and for consistency (springuide,barrel spacers,barrel and hop rubber).the rest of the work needs little in the case of parts.
You seem to have all the parts covered the rest is down to yourself to tune your own rifle.
There are loads of mods that people can advise on but again even after doing these you still need to tune the rifle for them.
You can do all the mods and add all the parts you want but unless you can tweak it yourself for how your rifle works then nothing will help.
Put it this way we had a guy at my site that threw cash at his vsr,and bought every part possible,but did little work on the rifle himself..the end result was a bar10 out the box could preform nearly aswell and cost a fraction of the price.
The only parts you really need are for durability,(sears,piston) and for consistency (springuide,barrel spacers,barrel and hop rubber).the rest of the work needs little in the case of parts.
You seem to have all the parts covered the rest is down to yourself to tune your own rifle.
There are loads of mods that people can advise on but again even after doing these you still need to tune the rifle for them.
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2,893 Posts
I would only order that nineball if you want a spare. It has been debated on whether the nineball or the TM precision chamber bucking is better. You might get a slight difference out from the nineball but you shouldn't notice too much. ?If you do notice something it is probably just how you installed it.
As for tweaking, like the above post says, now that you have all the parts it is time for some DIY. Shim the hop arm, teflon the cylinder head (air seal mod), TDC mod (for use of any weight bb), and I think the rest you have done already.
You havn't told us what your groupings are now. What is your max effective range for hitting a person. also what bbs are you using? Like Ranger says, The ammo is commonly forgotten and it can impact your gun a whole lot more than you think.
One more thing, 300 fps is the optimal fps for accuracy at range http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=4314 Scroll through the posts to find cheese's explanation as to why this is.
As for tweaking, like the above post says, now that you have all the parts it is time for some DIY. Shim the hop arm, teflon the cylinder head (air seal mod), TDC mod (for use of any weight bb), and I think the rest you have done already.
You havn't told us what your groupings are now. What is your max effective range for hitting a person. also what bbs are you using? Like Ranger says, The ammo is commonly forgotten and it can impact your gun a whole lot more than you think.
One more thing, 300 fps is the optimal fps for accuracy at range http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=4314 Scroll through the posts to find cheese's explanation as to why this is.
Ill post some pictures on grouping soon.
But as for work I think I've done a fair amount.
My air-seal is awesome in the cylinder. I can hold my thumb over the nozzle for 1 minute and air will release after that.
But my air-seal isn't so great in the hop-up.
I was using my VSR-10 the other day and i was hitting someone at 80m
But as for work I think I've done a fair amount.
My air-seal is awesome in the cylinder. I can hold my thumb over the nozzle for 1 minute and air will release after that.
But my air-seal isn't so great in the hop-up.
I was using my VSR-10 the other day and i was hitting someone at 80m
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2,311 Posts
You are over the standards of 90% of airsoft snipers already...
If you want more, check out my website (click the sig).
If you want more, check out my website (click the sig).
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2,893 Posts
Besides r-hop, really the only thing left is to have Cheese LRB your rifle. I haven't done it yet because something about bending an 80$ barrel just sort of puts me off. Maybe if I buy a Prommy 6.03.
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2,311 Posts
It's not bent permanently...
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I know that. And I know it's not going to damage the barrel at all, and I know countless other people have done it. It just gives me the creeps.
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1,033 Posts
If you looking to spend a little more, but a Daner Werx type B hopup arm and use a PDI W-Hold VSR10 bucking. You can get the arms on ASGI and the bucking on Redwolf. Make soure you get the one specifically for the VSR10 chamber and NOT the one for the PDI chamber.
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239 Posts
I had 480 fps with m150 and king arms vsr bucking. Once I switched over to a nineball bucking I got a consistent 518 fps -+5 fps. Also had TDC mod done which helped. And perfect air seal in the hop up area with Teflon mods.
- A.K.A "FD" or "Krew"
I Can't find any DangerWerx arms that will ship to New Zealand :/
But I did one time... it was $90 NZD WITHOUT shipping
Do you know of a tutorial for the TDC mod?
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