[woogie]

Well hey again guys .... well i am glad to say that i am back in the states and out of Iraq.

But i just got to hold my new G&G M14 and wow ... i love the thing.. so first thing i did was charge up one of the batteries and went to fire it.

Well i soon found that when i pulled the trigger.... i had to pull it really far back and it took a bit for it to fire!!

So my question to you guys is this.... is there something i can do to the rifle itself to make it fire with less of a trigger pull..... or what can i do. I am not talking about the trigger pull weight... but the pull length. It just seems like i have to pull the thing a long way for it to fire...

Any help will be great

thanks guys

 

[dutton]

That's actually a common problem with G&G M14s. Depending on what version you got, you may be able to get the replacement parts from G&G, which I think are supposed to correct the issue. Otherwise you'll have to do what I did and modify it - which unfortunately required a machine shop.

 

[woogie]

yeah when i was looking at getting this rifle i was informed that it was of the newer version....

i may have to see what little "tricks" i can come up with.... it is like the arm needs to be a little longer or something...

Are there any ideas that you could come up with.. I have a game that i am going to here on the 21st... and would like my gun to be working correctly

 

[vindicareassassin]

What i did on mine was cut off the existing pin, drill and tap for a small bolt slightly forward of the original, screw in said bolt using thread cement , so it doesn't come undone again, and cut the bolt head off, and 'Jobs a good 'un ' as we say where i come from While i was about it I also did a small bit of fettling to the actual trigger group with a file, on my SOC16 just filing part of the mechanism down was enough to allow the trigger arm and pin thingy to travel far enough forward to negate the above operation needing to be carried out, only down side, I need to pull the trigger further back, which you hardly notice in the heat of combat

 

[mosin]

Woogie.. hate to do this man, but please clean up the grammar. Utilize the "Shift" key when refering to yourself.. It's "I", not "i".

Also, try to make sure that your sentances are a little bit more on grammaticly speaking, welcome back from the sandbox buddy.. I hope that these boys can help you out.

 

[woogie]

lol yeah mosin I know my grammer really does suck... I usually never use caps or anything when I type

Glad to be back that is true... Know it is just making me mad about the new rifle ... I have a game coming up here on the 21st, and i want my gun to work correctly

 

[vindicareassassin]

A bad photo of where i filed the trigger group for you mate, you should get the idea

I just kept fiddling till I got the most trigger travel I could, now the pin craddle moves almost 1/16th" further forward with no mods to the actuating arm on the gear box.

 

[mosin]

Hahah! .. You're telling me.

I'm going to Operation: Coastal Uprising in Ohio on the 28th and if I don't have my 5 DeepFire Midcaps then I'm going there with only one 70 round midcap for the M14.. Which I guess would be good, if I wasn't going assault for it.

As far as your question goes.. It's your connection and motor that cause the response time, as soon as you pull the trigger the circut is sent to the battery pretty much telling it to "GIVE IT SOME JUICE!".. Once that's said the battery releases a small amount to the motor, which in turn.. Get's really happy and starts doing spins (Haha.. Seriously, it just activates and pulls the spring back) which then makes her fire. Unlike a SystemA or something else of high quality where you have literally a 0.1 second response time to a trigger pull.. You'll have to upgrade some pieces in your unit to get it working. We'll start with basic mechanics first.

Check all the wires leading from the motor to the gearbox, and from the battery to the gearbox, see if anything is torn, loosly placed, or dirty (You'll see a little black or something on the contacts). If it's torn or loose, pull out the soldiering iron and fix the old boy.. If you aren't good with that, take it to a hobby shop (Not the entire rifle.. Just the connection pieces) and ask for it to be done.. Shouldn't take them longer than 20 seconds and cost you anything more than $5.00.

If it's dirty, get a little rubbing alcohol and clean it up, then reassemble.. Note that you're working on an M14, and their Version 7 gearboxes are a little tricky, so be careful.. Again, if you don't feel comfortable.. Get someone that does (Not trying to plug anyone here.. But I usually have Tex do all my work, due to his amazing jobs).

Now.. If that is fixed and you're still having problems.. Check to see how much battery life you have (I suppose I should have listed this as the first.. Because it's the most easily messed up).. If you shoot and it comes out really weak and slow, chances are your battery is low (Hey, I can ryme!).

Finally, if all problems said above are fixed and corrected, or are 100% fine to begin with.. Then replace the motor, or check the contacts to make sure you're getting a 100% energy transference and spring pull out of it.

That's all I can think of that'll increase in that aspect.. The best thing you can do really is grab a camera and video tape you firing the weapon, so we can see exactly what sounds it makes and what it's doing.

-Mosin

 

[echo]

Same thing happened to Livonia's M14, bad wiring harness is the problem there.

 

[woogie]

Sounds good guys .... I am working on painting the rifle right now. As soon as i get it done I will get some pics and let you guys see

Thanks for all of the tips guys .... I was going to try and make the contacts a bit closer, so I don't have to pull the trigger so far. But i will try to sand some stuff down and look over the wiring.

 

[woogie]

Well I am back with some good news

I removed the stock and found that all of the wiring was connected, and nothing was wrong there. Then I connected a fresh battery, just removed from the charger. After putting the trigger back on the rifle, minus the stock. I found that when i pull the trigger it will push a long flat arm on the side of the mec box. Well the trigger wasn't pushing that bar far enough forward to make contact with the motor.

Well i took out the trigger and filled in the "U" spot on the trigger mech. And when the J-B weld hardens I will grind down a new spot for that arm to rest. This should take care of the huge trigger pull.

Thanks assassian for that sanding tip... I did that to the trigger and a bit all over and WOW! That really made a huge difference. Thanks for all of the help guys. I will let you all know how it goes after my little "mod" is done.