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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello friends, I have bit of an issue here. Let me start with the fact that I've bought "KWA Ronin T10 SE" and went down the path of upgrade... Let me just say that it's the most pile of 💩 decision I've ever made. I have changed stock internals to:

"SE Included" Gate Titan.
MadBull 6.01mm 509mm.
SHS Full Cylinder.
SHS Cylinder Head.
KWA Tappet for Non-Kwa Nozzles.
SHS Nozzle.
SHS Piston 14 teeth.
SHS Piston Head.
SHS Steel bushings.
Mystery M160 Spring.
Rocket Gears 24:1
Chi-Hai Nd-Fe-B 26k M180 Motor.
Is shimmed properly.
Did radiusing on gearbox shell.

New F'ing issues arrouse:
Issue #1 Stock HopUp doesn't accept new nozzle, so I sanded it down and now it fits but shoots like 💩. (It's ruined most likely).
Issue #1.5 I bought SHS CNC Hop-Up Chamber, but suprise surprise it doesn't fit becouse of KWA's upper reciever...
Issue #2 After I swapped motor, gun performs like 💩 in cold temps like 7c to -2c.
Issue #3 Bucking is getting stiff in cold and sometimes gun doesn't shoot at all, BBs get stuck.

Here's my questions:
1) Which HopUp will fit KWA's Upper reciever and SHS's nozzle ? Some say specificaly "Maxx ME Sport" does, but then again do I need maxx nozzle for it ?
2) If I opt for Maxx Me Sport, which mags work with it ? I highly doubt my "MS120" will feed properly.
3) My mid-caps "MS120" Can not handle .30BBs even thogh they are brand new. I want to switch to high caps, which ones work well with Maxx Me Sport ?
4) Which bucking should I get for winter and which one for summer ?
5) Is Flat nub & Flat bucking a good idea ?
6) Is my build safe enough for M180 or M190+ spring ? Is it good enough for .40BBs++ ? Which High-caps handle such heavy BBs ?
7) Since this T10 is EBB it doesn't fit normal long baterries, which one should I opt for ? If Airsoft advertised nunchucks aren't enough are these safe to stick outside the butstock ? GOLDBAT , ROCKOO.
 

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KWA has specific hop units—you really don’t need to change it though. Your hop unit is an unnecessary upgrade 95% of the time for modern AEGs. Keep your stock nozzle. Most of the time it’s fine as well.

Which mags? It depends. The answer is try and see. If you can find someone else with the same gun and hop unit their suggestions might be better, but it’s very individual.

Mags? I know what works for me, but again, what works with your gun is heavily dependent, and I can’t tell you what’ll actually fit right.

Use a silicone hop rubber. Use it all the time. They require almost no “warming up”, and they really have no downsides.

Flat nub and hop rubber are fine, but flat rubbers are notoriously difficult to get perfect. I’d suggest picking something up like a PDI W-hold in a harder degree.

Absolutely no 180 spring. I wouldn’t go higher than M130 on the stock gears, and you need some serious tech skill to keep it together over M140. Even an M130 is really hard on some of those parts you have listed.

You don’t list your hop rubber and nub setup, so I can’t tell you if it’ll handle .40s.

For a battery, I use a $12 butt stock pouch from Amazon, and run a Turnigy Nano Tech 5000 Mah 11.1v in it. Works great, and I never have to worry about underpowering my gun.

KWAs usually aren’t horrible to work, but it looks like you may have had some bad recommendations in your parts choosing. For example, with .30s and a full cylinder your optimum barrel length is about 380mm. And that actually goes down as your BBs get heavier. The overly long barrel may be wrecking your accuracy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
KWA has specific hop units—you really don’t need to change it though. Your hop unit is an unnecessary upgrade 95% of the time for modern AEGs. Keep your stock nozzle. Most of the time it’s fine as well.

Which mags? It depends. The answer is try and see. If you can find someone else with the same gun and hop unit their suggestions might be better, but it’s very individual.

Mags? I know what works for me, but again, what works with your gun is heavily dependent, and I can’t tell you what’ll actually fit right.

Use a silicone hop rubber. Use it all the time. They require almost no “warming up”, and they really have no downsides.

Flat nub and hop rubber are fine, but flat rubbers are notoriously difficult to get perfect. I’d suggest picking something up like a PDI W-hold in a harder degree.

Absolutely no 180 spring. I wouldn’t go higher than M130 on the stock gears, and you need some serious tech skill to keep it together over M140. Even an M130 is really hard on some of those parts you have listed.

You don’t list your hop rubber and nub setup, so I can’t tell you if it’ll handle .40s.

For a battery, I use a $12 butt stock pouch from Amazon, and run a Turnigy Nano Tech 5000 Mah 11.1v in it. Works great, and I never have to worry about underpowering my gun.

KWAs usually aren’t horrible to work, but it looks like you may have had some bad recommendations in your parts choosing. For example, with .30s and a full cylinder your optimum barrel length is about 380mm. And that actually goes down as your BBs get heavier. The overly long barrel may be wrecking your accuracy.
Thanks for info but it's not much helpful, I really don't feel like going to stock nozzle since I already invested lot of $ in Nozzle and in replacement tappet for 25$ for it to be able to use aftermarket nozzels.
As for HopUp Chamber it's busted, I will have to get a new one anyways so if you know any KWA T10compatible let me know.
About gears and M180, I've replaced the stock gears to 24:1, forgot to mention. But is 24:1 enough though ? I used t run M150 on Stock gears(18:1) in my previus kwa and had no issue over use of a year, so I guess on 24:1 M180 shouldn't be an issue ?
As for Silicone Hop Rubber and nub, gimmie link to specific one ? coz I tried few and they had jamming issue in winter.
 

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An M180 is significantly stronger than an M150. Think of it as breaking an additional limit where things have to be twice as strong as they were when you used the M150.

Depends on the gears. Higher gear ratios just make it easier on your motor/battery. I was talking about sheer gear durability, and the extra strain that spring strength adds on the metal itself, as well as the vastly increased force of the piston hitting your piston head and the shock transferring to the shell.

Why did you switch to an aftermarket nozzle and tappet plate in the first place? Were the stock nozzle and tappet having issues? Switching your nozzle can seriously ruin your accuracy and feeding, as many nozzle are made completely differently, and really aren’t compatible.

If you had issues with generic silicone hop rubbers like the SHS silicone, that’s another issue, not the hop rubber’s fault. If you had issues with Maple Leaf hop rubbers, that’s because they require special installation in the vast majority of the hop units and barrels in the airsoft world. It’s really bad, actually, that everyone recommends Maple Leaf, since most airsoft beginners have no clue how, or have the tools to install these, much less know that they cause issues from the start.
 

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Notice how ML‘s AEG barrels have no bridge? In every single M4 hop unit/barrel group combo I’ve tested, the front end of the ML packings are too thick for the barrel clip to fit into place properly. The lips are also too long, and since you can’t trim them without repercussion, the only good way I’ve found of making it work without barrel modification is to move the entire barrel backwards in the hop unit. Then, you need a longer than normal nozzle, since the contact patch is farther back.

It’s either that or mess with grinding/sanding the front of your barrel, which has it’s own issues. If you have the know how and tools to precisely modify your barrel itself, I applaud you, but my rotary tool won’t cut hardened steel. :p

If you’ve found a barrel/hop unit that works without modification (aside from ML barrels themselves), I would be ecstatic to hear about it!
 

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Might be the Maxx ME (which I have not tried), or it might be something with the P*. I got no clue man. :unsure:

Here’s a hop rubber pic for comparison of front wall thickness; Maple Leaf somethingrather (they all have the same front design) vs. whatever dirty G&G green equivalent I had on my tech bench.

Hand Fluid Finger Gas Thumb
 

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An M180 is significantly stronger than an M150. Think of it as breaking an additional limit where things have to be twice as strong as they were when you used the M150.

Depends on the gears. Higher gear ratios just make it easier on your motor/battery. I was talking about sheer gear durability, and the extra strain that spring strength adds on the metal itself, as well as the vastly increased force of the piston hitting your piston head and the shock transferring to the shell.

Why did you switch to an aftermarket nozzle and tappet plate in the first place? Were the stock nozzle and tappet having issues? Switching your nozzle can seriously ruin your accuracy and feeding, as many nozzle are made completely differently, and really aren’t compatible.

If you had issues with generic silicone hop rubbers like the SHS silicone, that’s another issue, not the hop rubber’s fault. If you had issues with Maple Leaf hop rubbers, that’s because they require special installation in the vast majority of the hop units and barrels in the airsoft world. It’s really bad, actually, that everyone recommends Maple Leaf, since most airsoft beginners have no clue how, or have the tools to install these, much less know that they cause issues from the start.
Maple leaf AEG barrels are bridges like all other barrels (but have a unique cut for better air seal with their hop rubbers, not that it's needed I've heard).

They also see sell a hybrid barrel that works in AEG's and gbb/VSR with the correct matching hop rubber that is unbridged, but never seen someone use it in an AEG.
 
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