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[Help] Vsr-10 "Crazy-Philippino" Build

2970 Views 64 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Lightf4ng
Hey hey there good people!

~ Here's little info before I get into build details:
I've been reading through forums, guides and anywhere that I could get as much info possible on VSR-10 builds, but I've got plenty more questions, becouse all those builds are limited by the joule rules of their respected country of origin or their local field. I am not bound by such limitations. I've seen crazy builds from Philippines, those guys easily reach over 750fps measured with .20bb, but I don't understand a single word they say, All I figured is that they use long 540mm+ inner-barrels and some hella strong springs, also it doesn't help that they don't list parts.
You might be asking, why would I need such a build ? Well, we aren't your average 14 year old go brrr with HPA in some CQB warehouse with music blasting. We are based in Asia. At my field we do realistic engaments / mil-trainings/ operations in forest and we have different weapons for different occasions. Average joe on my field with an AEG hits targets consisantly at around 80+ meters, so my Vsr-10 build should be relaiably hitting hitting targets over 200 meters. That's what we need for future event.

~ The build:

Budget: Don't have a fixed one, will pay for decent parts but won't overpay for parts that offer diminishing results over price creep.
Base: I've read that JG Bar-10 is the best base weapon, it being 100% TM Vsr-10 clone and having 100% aftermarket part compatibility. Also I've looked into CM701 but I'm not sure if it's as compatible as JG. Might get used or boneyard ones since 90% of internals will be replaced anyways.
Cylinder set: Whichever is best for strong springs like Rapax 4j+, leme know.
Trigger unit: Think of S-trigger v9.2 by Springer custom or Maple leaf's Gen 3 Vsr, haven't looked into other ones,whichever is better.
Spring: Rapax Hulk 4j+ and or Rapax RMS 4j+, they are both advertised as 4j and both for VSR10 but I've read somewhere that it ain't 100% fact.
Piston + Spring guide: I am at loss here, there's conflicting information, some say heavier is better but some say lightergets more fps ? No clue, I'll get which ever you kind folks recommend, I want to squeeze every fps available from it. As for spring guide 9mm ofc.
HopUp Chamber: Good old Red Action Army with masada's cnc arm.
Nub: built in masada's cnc arm.
Bucking: Whichever is best suitible for 0.49bbs, Whatever's latest and greatest?
Inner-barrel: Correct me if I'm wrong, but longer the more fps ? So 540mm but which brand ? I've heared EdGi is the Gucci equivalent in airsoft, but it costs twice what other brands cost,110$ for a barrel ? Don't think it offers twice the performance now would it ? Also figured that I need bridgeless one.

Am I missing any other parts ? let me know. Thanks for your time! Hope I can get some answers and recommendations.
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Number one, you will not reach 200m, best you will do is like 140-150m, and that's if you use .69g ceramic BBs.

Gun - Novritsch SSG10
Cylinder - stock SSG10
Trigger - stock SSG10
Spring - Rapax 4J
Piston+guide - stock SSG10, maybe with piston weights
Hop chamber - AA red is what I'd use, good choice
Nub - Masada nub is good, but take a look at the SS-nub tutorial in my signature
Bucking - I'd go with either a Maple Leaf 2021 80* or 85* Autobot, or an R-hop and a flat bucking
Barrel - ESCW 5.98, EdGi, or lapped PDI, DaVinci, or Lambda 6.01
DIY stuff - one piece receiver, tape barrel spacers, cylinder sleeve, bolt handle lockup stabilizing
You'd be cutting it pretty close to get a trigger, cylinder, cylinder head, piston, and spring guide of equivalent quality for $250. SSG10 is easy, and just as good, with the trigger being the same Bulltrigger that is sold for VSRs and considered good.

The receiver is aluminum, lighter and stronger than the standard monkey metal, and the outer barrel is a little nicer than average and you're able to make a 430mm one piece receiver out of it which you can only do with bull barrel style outer barrel like the G-spec, or some of the stuff Laylax, PDI, Action Army, and Maple Leaf make.

If you wanna get a Bore Up cylinder set from Airsoftgunseurope for $60 I'd recommend that, and if you do that then you may be better off building an SSG10 without the Nov cylinder set, hop chamber, or inner barrel.
I'd recommend doing that anyways if you're gonna replace those parts as it could save you money, but if you're not gonna use his cylinder set then that kinda pushes it over the edge.

As for the Full Thrust system, it is in fact good, but I'm not sure how well worth it all the stuff is. Being stuck with proprietary mags and maybe buckings is annoying to say the least, but if you're stuck with proprietary ammo, then that's bad. This is bad if the ammo is out of stock for a while and you run out, but even worse if shipping is very expensive or the company goes out of business. This happens to people in the firearms world a great deal, as there is a large list of cartridges that were a fad that then lost popularity, and eventually disappear, or go way up in price. Then you're stuck with a gun and it's accessories which would require you to convert it to another caliber if you're lucky, and if not you're out a bunch of money and have a gun and stuff you probably couldn't sell.
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@Cripplegunner , I bet you have something wise to say
You'll need to add weight to the piston yourself with lead or copper wire and heat shrink. Not too difficult, and you can pretty much make a Wasp or Scorpion piston for a third the price.

For springs, I think the RMS is shorter and meant for VSRs as the normal springs sometimes will cause catching issues in some VSRs.

The tapered "Pro Sniper" outer barrel houses a 430mm inner barrel. The G-spec isn't tapered and houses a 303mm inner barrel. The SSG10 and Maple Leaf guns have a 430mm G-spec style barrel. If you want to make a one piece receiver you'll absolutely need a G-spec style barrel, as you install your hop chamber and barrel through the muzzle end of the barrel.
I think that at higher power the ratios change, as somebody I was talking to had their highest power with 5.98X490 with .48g at 3.9J with a weighted piston, which does seem different than the stated numbers.

I think bore diameter, power, and piston weight are all variables in the cylinder to barrel ratio thing.
Yeah, 430mm is probably a bit better, but I've run undervolumed barrels on my guns and it isn't really any worse. Unless you have like 100mm extra barrel, where you will probably lose power and accuracy. You'll find variations in all this stuff as there's still other variables, so none of this stuff is guaranteed really.
I think that Rapax is 100% a better choice, they probably make the best VSR springs. I hope they move into AEG springs and stuff like that, probably an untapped market.
I've used a couple Novritsch springs in a friend's SSG10 and they were weak. The M220 he got was more like a 2.4J spring, since they sent him the wrong thing. Still hard to cock though, my shoulder hurt after 2 mags and I'm used to dumping like 50 shells of 12 gauge in a sitting. The other spring was supposed to be like 500 FPS, but it was like 1.7J. pretty annoying how a wrong spring and a weak spring were sent.

Beyond M170 I don't think that you'll have a super good time playing, as it's just really hard to cock. Funny how the best springer is way harder to use than a $170 .22lr.
For the piston I'd recommend just adding weight to the stock one.

HPA is good, that'd let you get a cheap rifle and the barrel, bucking, and chamber.
I'd recommend the Wolverine BOLT, a 26/3000 tank, and whatever line and regulator. EPeS and the new Wolverine CAT5 regulators are supposed to be great, but they came out after I'd already bought a Polarstar MRS.
Well I happen to make min HPA tanks, so if you want one maybe a local tech could do the project
Gun is 230-350

Engine is 430-508

If you want one of my tanks, I charge $75, and a first and second stage regulator will be $25 and about $130.
I didn't add any other upgrades, but you're looking at $890-$1,088, but probably more after shipping and hop/barrel stuff.

For how much that barrel costs you're pretty close to getting a Lambda. I have made a two piece barrel and have used 2 from stock guns, and it is generally not a great design unless you do a really really good job. Idk why you wouldn't just make the whole thing out of steel though, as it's cheaper, better, and easier to do.
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Probably worth getting the Autobot 85* and the 5.98 barrel. You can put the Modify barrel in an AEG or something, but I'd use it until the 5.98 barrel shows up whenever that is.
With one of my 6 inch tanks you'd spend $15 more on the tank and another $25 to buy a first stage regulator, and the regulator I listed you'd be able to get that all for $450, and it would completely fit in your gun.

I suggest you use your SSG10 a while, but do keep HPA in mind. If you got the Mancraft SDiK instead, you'd be able to get a full HPA loadout with my mini tanks for $313, which is pretty dang competitive if you add on a cheap base gun and some minor modifications.

As for ease of installation, doing this would require little to no skill, and a drill or Dremel at most, and there's plenty of good info on YouTube to help you out.
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Is that 65g piston weight just based on BB weight or does is factor in barrel and spring strength ? In the guideI've seen that Spring and Piston ratios do matter a lot.
It['s based on both, you sort of have to experiment with it.
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