Help with gathering information about HPA for AEG

I recently went the HPA route as well. Amped Airsof has a decent "Pleb to Pro" series on YouTube.

Have you seen the new GATE Pulsar engine? It's about the same price as the Kythera, but you get to control it from your phone and have all the adjustability of the F2. Can't speak to the reliability of mine just yet--hazards of a new product--but it's easily the cheapest setup with this level of electronics.

Speaking from experience, the tuning is in no way similar to an AEG. You slide a bar on your phone while firing into a chrono until you get where you need to be, and if you're not happy you reset the whole thing with touch of a button. (at least on the Pulsar)

What you need:

Place to fill up your tank. (some fields, dive shops, paintball shops)

Air tank. Any aluminum paintball tank should do the trick. Larger is heavier but more capacity so you've got to decide where you want to go there. For me, I had a 48 ci lying around from my paintball days, so the choice was easy.

Polarstar regulator clone off eBay. Costs about $40. Just search the Polarstar MR regulator and then search "airsoft regulator" on eBay until you find the clone. I bought the version that comes with an air line.

Air line. Any HPA air line. Or make your own if you're handy.

Grip line. Any grip line. Or make your own.

7.4v battery. Preferably a tiny one that'll fit inside your grip, IF you're going with an electronic engine. Don't need this on the Kythera.

And that should be about it.

Oh, and maybe a couple hop rubbers to try and make sure that the HPA engine doesn't kick the BB too far past the rubber to get good accuracy. Maple Leaf MR.Hops seem to work, as well as TNT TR.Hops, and the Begadi SHP line, which was designed for HPA.

Welcome to the dark side, we have plenty of noobs to lace tf up

HPA isn't super complicated to deal with compared to AEGs, but you need to figure out the stuff sooner rather than learn slowly as you go like with an AEG.

If you even have the slightest urge to use full auto I'd go for the F2, since it's probably the second best engine you can get right now. It has the same features as the Fusion Engine, but is cheaper, smaller, more versatile, more efficient, and fits more guns.

To start off with the F2 you'll want
Small 7.4 battery with a JST plug (just search HPA battery)
UGS
F2 in the M4 nozzle package
Some kind of tank setup

Not to promote my own shit, but I do happen to make mini air tanks that will fit the UGS and a real steel stock, and give you about 500 shots per fill.

Tuning isn't that bad. Honestly you could just install it and not actually touch the tuning settings at all. Seen more then enough people do that. You don't get as many shots out of your tank, but it works well enough that you can deal with it another day or have someone do it for you. There are apps you can use that you plug your configuration into and it will put you in the ball park for ideal settings for your build.

You don't really need the UGS unless you are going for a complete on gun solution.

For tank carrying, one of these. Valken Universal Tank Pouch

If you really look around you can find other designs as well as some horizontal ones. I would also invest in a tank cover for whatever tank you get. Protect your fucking investment. Look at a style like this one. HK Army Hardline Armored Tank Cover - Tigerstripe

Personally I would go with a 4500 tank over a 3000 as they hold more air, and are lighter in weight vs their 3000 counterparts. They do cost more though.

Not to rain on SS's parade, but I wouldn't get one of his tanks. Mostly the fact that it's technically illegal to sell that outside of his home state as it does not have any of the federally required markings on it or inspection information. Would rather not have either of you wind up with a fine or anything. Just an FYI. Also can't technically ship pressure vessels out of the US without that info either. As that is breaking international laws at that point.

Whamhammer said:

Talking about "mini air tanks, how hard do you believe it would be to make a tank that is designed to be housed entirely inside of M16A1 full sized fixed stock, including a regulator? There is gobs of space, and I am shocked that there isn't an offering out there, as it seems to be a no-brainer.

I may consider using an HPA system, in the future, if I could use a tank and regulator system in my M16A1 replica, and keep it totally proper in appearance, and functionality. As is, with the price of HPA systems (plus the tank, line, etc. inconvenient mess), and the fact that I have performance parity vs HPA's with my AEGs, HPA currently doesn't offer much value to me.

Click to expand...

I think that your two best options would either be a UGS with a modified A1 stock that just fits over the tank with friction, or maybe you could have a Polarstar MR reg facing towards the rear of your stock with an air line routing back and through your castle nut or sling plate area, whichever is easier. The UGS would be more expensive, but you'd be able to swap tanks a bit faster compared to popping off your butt pad and fishing out your tank and line from the stock.

@AsianGuy
I probably should have mentioned it earlier, but unless you REALLY want a self contained gun, I'd just get an MR clone and a normal tank and line and run it from a CamelBak style backpack. It's a good deal cheaper than an air stock, and unless you run my mini tanks or CO2(CO2 is terrible) it's gonna be a lot more comfortable than trying to shoulder a 13/3000 tank.

If you can be convinced to go with the line without much effort, I'd go and get one of THESE and one of THESE, and a couple 7.4 HPA batteries, and of course the F2. Probably your best bet, as you could always sell the stuff and maybe even turn a lil profit on the tank to fund an air stock down the road.

@Leo Greer
I have a love hate relationship with Gate. I tend to lean on Gate because they are a major player in the mosfet game. But I had to deal with so many issues with my Gate aster because of poor design (long story short, I had to do a bunch of mods on to my trigger and gearbox shell because of light pollution that can affect the mosfet sensitivity)
I been out of the airsoft loop for 9+ months, so thank you for bringing the Gate pulsar to my attention. I didn’t even know it existed.
I did find this on youtube for F2 tuning…while it’s for gel blasters…I think maybe this may be all I need for F2 tuning? fingers crossed

@SiliconeSword
You mention the F2 is second best…what is the best in your opinion?
Thank you for the recommendation, but I def was planning to go the UGS route for “self contained gun” as you call it. Additionally, I was looking at the first strikes 13/4500 ones so that I can do a full game day without switching out tanks. (I seen it advertised as approx 1800 shots at 1.5J)


@Plazmaburn
I’m guessing you’re on team 4500 tank… can you fill a 4500 tank at a 3000 station? I get you have less pressure…but is that viable? I know some of my fields only have 3000 fill station. So while I WANT a 4500 tank…I don’t know if I have the convenience of filling it on field


New noob question:
What’s a regulator? Does the Polarstar UGS serve as a regulator?
What is a HPA and Grip line? Secondary to this, is this something I can get at McMaster-Carr?

@Plazmaburn



Maybe I’m confused because how I expect to have my setup: I’m leaning on UGS and F2/kythera. So for me:

F2 – “line 1” – UGS (regulator) – Tank

My guess is that in this case “line 1” is what you’re calling grip line?



Whereas the traditional setup is:

Engine – “Grip Line” – Regulator – “HPA line” – Tank?

@Plazmaburn

As I’m wasting time looking up airsoft stuff instead of studying coughs I noticed that first strike came out with 15 and 17 ci 4500 tanks last year?..so if length is an issue, maybe those would be more up your ally. I would rather use a 15ci…but I’m only 5’8” so I feel like the 13ci would be more ideal for me such that I can shorten the stock length for CQB. The whole reason I’m finally caving to HPA is cause I want an easily convertible and low maintaince system. I can’t afford to spend 1 or 2 hours teching based on indoor or outdoor fields. (stupid me for not getting an AEG with Quick change spring when I started)

@SiliconeSword

I’m already on 1 inch risers on my scope setup. I had a freak situation where a bb end up in my googles, ever since that I go full face mask. I'm one of those "safety first" folks

I was just going to go with the polarstar shims for the gearbox (I have G&P) after I measure the nub on it. But once I return home, I will have access to my 3d printer as well so if aligning the engine becomes a problem, I can print out customized shim for it

I also found this during my research:


it seems interesting, but I think bullgear is a Russian company, and with everything going on, it’s likely they won’t be a restock any time soon

Those two specific printers do 300°C stock, and I think they have whatever all metal and direct drive stuff you want. Did lots of research and talked to lots of people, trying not to go the route of spending $1000 on upgrading a VSR when an SSG10 with $50 of parts and DIY stuff will be equal, so to speak.

Didn't know about nylon being sketchy like that, but I did know about ABS, ASA, PETG and whatever other ones being not very chill. Good to know though, you probably saved a visit from me a few decades from now lol. As for heated chambers, from what I have seen they are not super necessary for nylon but more so for ABS, but that may be a thing I do regardless. The Bambu one has an enclosure already, which I could likely insulate and get a similar effect from, or I could make a cardboard enclosure for the Ender and insulate that as well. I imagine I could hook up a small vacuum fan that would vent out my window from the enclosure, but I would probably lose all the heat from the enclosure. Not sure how much nylon I'd use with it being at least $50 a kilo, but I suppose I could always leave the room and set up a fan going out a window, or store everything in my basement.
I'll figure that out when I have the thing though, I've got lots of other stuff sucking away my money at the moment.

@SiliconeSword

I’m all about saving money

I got my creality ender 3 v2 for sub 200 during the holidays

I got the microswiss direct drive and hot end sub 100 during a sale

All in all, sub 300 for my setup to be able to print “low end” nylon (which is sufficient for any hobbist). Just understand nylon is a very general term. High end nylon these days have tensile strength that rivals some metal materials. Even non modded Prusa can't handle those yet.

I don't know your specific model. But I would say without sale prices, a $400 price point should easily open up nylon to any hobbyist. I would imagine sub 300 without sale in our inflated market would be a challenge thought

You mostly need the [heated] chamber to help with a couple of issues

1 - first layer adhesion to plate

2 – layer to layer adhesion/consistency – the chamber allow for slower cool down from glass temp, whereby allowing the layers to “joint” more effectively

3 – minizine cross wind for fine prints (I use to think this was just being picky stickler, but I've since realize it is a thing)

[heated] chambers can be as elaborate or simple as you want. A small cpu fan in a nylon photo booth ($40 option) can generate enough negative pressure so that your “living” environment isn’t filled with fumes. (just don’t heat a nylon booth, cause that is a fire risk). If you want more elaborate, you can go acrylic box ($400 option). Again…as elaborate or simple as you like


Soapbox:

I hate those “listen to me, I’m an expert folks”, but hear me out. I’m in med school, I’ve worked 3 years with a pulmonologist, and for a fact I can tell you nylon will off gas. Anyone that tells you otherwise are just echoing wishful sentiments – hoping for the best. Now…how dangerous the off gases are is a separate conversation. We don’t have the longitudinal data to make an assessment. But I’m also not about to be a guinea pig for it. The volatile gas are similar compounds that are listed as carcinogenic by various health agencies.

To me it’s the vape argument from 15 years ago all over again. People use to run around saying it was safe, cause it isn’t cigarettes. It’s the same echoing wishful sentiments I saw back then. Now that we do have longitudinal data, vaping has been shown to be equality as dangerous as cigarettes – surprise surprise.

Again…I’m bias, but I’ve seen enough people with respiratory issues because they were just careless or misinformed in their youth.

Not today satan…not today