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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings,

I'm in full tweek mode with my 22" SRS Gen 3 build and I would be very great full for any feed back and tips to dial this in...

First my field rules and limits for the build as follows:

Using .2g bio bb's

FPS 480
Joule Max 2.3J

Current Build

Silverback M160 Spring
Silverback Variable Mass Piston - Using X4 Blue Aluminum weights
Silverback Fast Hop
Silverback 60 degree Bucking with a flat hop nub
TNT Inner Barrel
Bucking is PTFD Taped as is the rear of the Hop Up Chamber

Crono results with .2g bio bb's

FPS 460
Joules 1.9J

Test with Silverback Medium Piston Air Break

FPS 255
Joules .61J

So I guess I'm not using a piston air break as the energy loss is huge...

I am hoping to find someone who has similar feild limits that may steer me in the right direction to maximize distance and quieten the sound signature. Ive foamed the stock and made the spring twang go away. Most of the sound is actually going out the suppressor in my best estimation.

If I had to guess my current range under my current testing method Id say 170' flat plus or minus...

I am aware that in Europe the FPS limits are generally higher 500+ but I'm hoping to be able to dial this in to make it worth my while laying on my stomach taking out the abundance of hi end upgraded AEG players at my home field.

I am extremely happy with this platform and impressed at how easy it is to work on I think I just need a gentle nudge in the right direction to get it as perfect as can be under my circumstances...

Wish you all an awesome end to 2019 and an amazing 2020 to come!

Best

Martin a.k.a. Overwatch101

[email protected]
 

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Piston cups can need massaging time to time. The brake itself shouldn't cause airloss, but the reduced speed due to the brake may have caused the cup not to fan out as well which seems to be what your issue was.

As far as increasing the power, I would suggest a weight variable piston so that you can increase the joules with the bb weight you intend to use (which I assume will be >.4g). If you're still not there with an M160, the RAPAX 2j+ may better suit your needs.
 

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I appreciate the parts aren't like for like but Longbow suggest the following results when using a Sportline with an M160 with a Silverback air brake:

"Long = 415fps
Medium = 470fps
Short = 485fps"

Your results don't look wildly different to those and bearing in mind you are most likely using a heavier than stock piston, your 0.2 results will likely be a touch under but your "shooting weight" Joules are probably higher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So indeed massaging the piston cup head and some light lube made a big difference with air seal..

I noticed that you need to sand down the nub when using the silverback 60 degree bucking with the fast hop installed with a TNT inner barrel. It won't hop past 3/4 for me if you don't sand the nub... Once sanded you can hop to 8 on the dial..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you to AccurateDMD and Steveoceefor your help!

Now Im going to deal with sound signature reduction :)

PS if anyone notices any red flags with my current build please chime in and if there is anything I've missed to increase range and accuracy please say hello!

So Current Build is as follows

SRS Sport 20"
Silverback M160 Spring
Silverback Variable Mass Piston using all 4 blue aluminum weights
Silverback Medium Air Break
Silverback Fast Hop
silverback 60 degree (green) bucking with flat sanded nub
20' 510mm TNT Inner Barrel

Crono with the above is as follows using .2g bio bb's

472.6 / 2.07j
482.3 / 2.16j
458.2 / 2.19j
480.9 / 2.15j
467.2 / 2.03j
486.6 / 2.2j
489.5 / 2.23j


.46g bio bb's

339.5 / 1.07j to 344.5 Fps range


Ill assume things will settle in with use..

Best

Martin
 

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.46g bio bb's
339.5
344.5
That's 2.46 to 2.54 Joules :cheers:

As you're already running an airbrake, the other sound signature mods are to fill empty holes, it's a sport so the gap where the monopod can be filled as can the end of the stock.
Padding in the buttpad to stop the spring guide clacking on it.
You could fill the void around the inner barrel within the outer barrel, not sure what if anything that would do but it's a hollow area.
You can get a Faceless spring guide, that adjusts in width to match your spring to remove "thwack" if you get it.
Lastly as it's a Sportline you can get a DTSS _____ (redacted as legality seems to be a thing on this forum) which will screw on without the need for a muzzle brake if they are legal in your home nation. They are probably a huge killer of sound from in front of the rifle.

Try to compartmentalise the sound though, there's what the target will hear and what you will hear. Outside of MED they are near enough silent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you again!

I do have the proper Silverback suppressor and I added the fart flap with cameo tape its getting very quiet!

I'm also using the rapex green spring as the M170 caused slam firing.... Was interesting to see the rifle fire on its own after a 6 second wait leaving it cocked....

If you think the Silverback 60 degree bucking and flat nub are a good combo I'll leave it alone for know... i hope to range test it in ideal conditions over the holidays...

Best

Martin
 

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I do have the proper Silverback suppressor and I added the fart flap with cameo tape its getting very quiet!

I'm also using the rapex green spring as the M170 caused slam firing.... Was interesting to see the rifle fire on its own after a 6 second wait leaving it cocked....

If you think the Silverback 60 degree bucking and flat nub are a good combo I'll leave it alone for know... i hope to range test it in ideal conditions over the holidays...
The fart flap is a great mod but my personal feeling is it's place is on a Mk23, for a sniper I'd personally rather not have something obstructing my BB before it leaves the barrel, especially when trying to reliably shoot distances.

Rapax springs are very good, reading has told me they are one of the better fitting springs. The slam firing should be cured by raising the sear I believe.

Bucking and nub is subjective. Most people will say R-Hop with a faceless patch, seal and FOW nub.
the other combo I've read about is a TNT TR Hop bucking with a modified (read flattened) Stalker Prowler nub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Indeed I will experiment with said above... When I received my TNT kit it shipped with AEG buckings and not the extended length version so they cause feeding issues.. As for the sear adjustment I don't think i'm ready to take the rifle completely apart to adjust it.

M.
 
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