I tried a design with a hop up that slipped on the end of a barrel. I did not try slotting the end although I wanted to I just could not machine it good enough. It would be easy to do if you only went in an inch. I tried to go in 4 inches it did not work so I tried another approach shows in the next section bellow. But i would look like this, one end slips over the barrel with a set screw and the other end has slots. The holes all around are just to reduce weight is all. For a springer you would need a big air cylinder I suspect.
Here is the one I did below. Looks similar to the one up top but it had two 5mm holes countersunk 1/2 inch end that intercepted the barrel at 10 and 2 o-clock. It was like a mickey mouse head, Then I stuck in an o ring with a tapered head screw that squeezed the o-ring into the bb barrel area depending on how hard you tightened the screws. Not a fan of dual adjustments, it was finicky.
That was a year ago. The kids used it for all sorts of things and I can not seem to find the 3 originals. Once I started working on a whole gun I lost some interest in testing this and never fully tested it. The wife and kids are all like "oh ya I remember seeing it" but no body know where.
But that basic design could be altered with just gas escape slots at the end like the version I rendered up top without any mechanical touching of the BB which is what I did.
Here is the barrel end of the mickey mouse version I did.
I suspect barrel tip designs are a push. May work may not not sure it address the core problem. It is like treating a symptom rather than the cause. Or so I suspect. Interesting to hear what I tried had been done before in some form with barrel tip interference.
This means they were trying to fix the problem the same way I was so "they" are aware of the "problem".
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