[bobgengeskahn]

Hello all,

For my DMR build I followed Vindis guide to the letter as much as I could since I was building off of a G36. The one area that I have not seen much on is the specific hop up unit that is in the G36, the same unit that is in the Aug and some of the M14s from what I have heard. My question is: how many of you have done any custom work or modifications to these types of hop up units to improve accuracy? Since they operate very differently than the standard AR style hop up that pretty much everyone uses, there really hasn't been that much to work off of for improving the accuracy of this part. Thanks for any input!

 

[dhm078]

It isn't the same chamber as the AUG and M14. But I do like the chamber design.

As far as mods go, start by shimming the arm (the part that pushes down the nub) to eliminate side to side play.

People have tried all sorts of modifications regarding the bucking and nub, including different bucking mound shapes (or modification, or even outright removal) and nub shapes such as the concave spacer (SCS/PCS), H-nub, or solid cylindrical nubs (like the stock one, only not made of soft rubber). Nobody can seem to come to a consensus on what works best, and I have gotten satisfactory results with a lot of them. This is the kind of thing where you try different things and see what works best for you.

 

[bobgengeskahn]

I have done plenty of experimenting with the nub and the bucking themselves, I am more interested in how to do work on this particular unit.

I have shimmed the arm on my Aero Chamber, but on this barrel design I was not sure if that was possible/necessary.

 

[bobgengeskahn]

Slight side note, but I just found this and was wondering what you guys think. From reading about it there are some really amazing results.

http://gungineer.matrix.jp/precision/G-HOP/seisaku_gen3/seisaku_gen3.htm

 

[dhm078]

I have done plenty of experimenting with the nub and the bucking themselves, I am more interested in how to do work on this particular unit.

Ah, okay, sorry I misunderstood.

I have shimmed the arm on my Aero Chamber, but on this barrel design I was not sure if that was possible/necessary.

Well, there's still an arm that pushes the nub down. In its slot it could potentially still have some play, although this G36 chambers are usually pretty stable/consistent. Either way, I don't see how it could hurt.

Slight side note, but I just found this and was wondering what you guys think. From reading about it there are some really amazing results.

http://gungineer.matrix.jp/precision/G-HOP/seisaku_gen3/seisaku_gen3.htm

This has been the subject of much discussion on the AirsoftMechanics boards. From their testing it works very well until you get to about 1joule of energy, then it starts to lose its effectiveness or fall apart.

 

[bobgengeskahn]

Yeah, but if it has the range they say at only 1joule then why do you need more power?

 

[vindicareassassin]

Slight side note, but I just found this and was wondering what you guys think. From reading about it there are some really amazing results.

http://gungineer.matrix.jp/precision/G-HOP/seisaku_gen3/seisaku_gen3.htm

I fitted something similar to my 350 fps SL/G36 DMR, its still under development at the mo, but results are good...ish.

It didnt give me any more range than my 350 fps VSR, (what I bench mark all my DMR builds against, using Devil .28s), but it did give a flatter flight path out to the same distance.

The flat 'pad' was only the same size as the hop unit opening in that weapon, but in my EMR with a G&G AUG hop unit, I did a complete remodel of how it works, this is a U hop in profile but is 10mm in length, using a nub free stock TM rubber, and combined with a specialy made 509mm LRB barrel for this weapon, and running at just shy of 430fps, it will send a .43 skyward with absalute ease.

I'm still to adjust this for range at the moment, by adjusting the LRB bend and hop depth, as I only managed to get the weapon going last saturday

 

[bobgengeskahn]

The flat 'pad' was only the same size as the hop unit opening in that weapon, but in my EMR with a G&G AUG hop unit, I did a complete remodel of how it works, this is a U hop in profile but is 10mm in length, using a nub free stock TM rubber, and combined with a specialy made 509mm LRB barrel for this weapon, and running at just shy of 430fps, it will send a .43 skyward with absalute ease.

10mm in length? Does that mean you lengthened the hop up hole in the barrel itself? The thought of something like this has been in the back of my mind for a while; i.e. lengthening the surface area of the bucking that is exposed to the BB as it goes down the barrel, but I just don

 

[Cheese Man]

How did you make the LRB/where did you get it?

 

[vindicareassassin]

[quote="vindicareassassin":5yrx4hiq]The flat 'pad' was only the same size as the hop unit opening in that weapon, but in my EMR with a G&G AUG hop unit, I did a complete remodel of how it works, this is a U hop in profile but is 10mm in length, using a nub free stock TM rubber, and combined with a specialy made 509mm LRB barrel for this weapon, and running at just shy of 430fps, it will send a .43 skyward with absalute ease.

10mm in length? Does that mean you lengthened the hop up hole in the barrel itself? The thought of something like this has been in the back of my mind for a while; i.e. lengthening the surface area of the bucking that is exposed to the BB as it goes down the barrel, but I just don

 

[vindicareassassin]

How did you make the LRB/where did you get it?

I made it by shimming the inner barrel to the outer correctly down its full length, then using the hop unit as a solid base and the mounting block half way down the barrel( dont forget this is on a sage EBR chassis) as a fulcrum point I then fitted a screw adjuster in the very front of the RIS rail to apply pressure to the front of the barrel, forcing it to curve down smoothly.

I'm about to start work on a sub 1 Joule M4 SPR using an SR25 RIS frame on a M4 length barrel.

I'll mount the front and back ends solid, then form an adjuster about half way along it with side screws to lock it in place.

If you think hard about it and are willing to have an unsightly screw randomly sticking out your gun most weapons can be converted to it, its just then a matter of matching your ammo to it and getting used to the odd flight path