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Sorry 'bout that, I've been off on a coarse so haven't logged on in a while ::)

beison8000 said:
So after following almost everything in the DMR guide that doesn't involve opening the gear box, I have yet to shim the hopup arm on my dboys SCAR.
Before I do that, I was hoping I could have a few things cleared up.

1.) Currently my hopup nub looks like this: This is very different from the style that Vindi suggested in the DMR post. Is there something inherently wrong with using a nub shaped like this? It definitely has enough strength to make the .3's I want to shoot sail pretty well at 320-330fps, but would it not be accurate enough?

As pointed out already this is what comes as stock in most AEGs. It provides 'ok'ish performance, but nothing more, as also suggested swapping to a H style nub will give a straighter flight path from shot to shot

2.) My gun has a tendency to have shots that veer left, right around the time the hopup spin begins to effect the trajectory of the bb. Now this is all well and good for when I want to get hits on those super annoying enemies who like to hide behind trees... but even so, I think I'd prefer having a gun that shoot strait. :-/ Also, this doesn't happen every shot, maybe more like 3/5 shots. This, in my limited experience leads me to suspect the hop arm not staying in the right place, yielding a less than 100% vertical back spin. I checked the arm, and it is slightly wiggly, confirming the stray shots, and with most of them veering left, I think I can assume that in addition to being a little loose, the arm is also favoring a specific side.
So with that in mind, when I go to shim the hop arm, which side should I stuff more shimming on to correct for the veering towards the left?

If the shot is veering to the left, its because the nub/rubber is applying to much pressure to the left side of the bb, so to correct this, this applies even more so with a H style nub, you need to try to equalize the pressure by increasing it on the right side, to do this you need to shift the nub in the direction of the spin, in your case to the left (IE all your shims should be fitted to the right side of the arm). You also need to make sure the nub sits in the arm flat and level, don't expect this to be a given, as alto have mould lines/poor mould alignment that the nub can sit awkwardly or rock on

3.) I had an interesting thought:
Of course, I'll be shooting .3's in skirmishes, due to the increased range and accuracy. However during testing, what if I used .2's? My reasoning is that since .2's are much more apt to be effected by inconsistencies in the gun, would testing with these result in more pronounced accuracy issues,making things easier to diagnose?

Never, ever test with anything other than the ammo you will be using in a game, it only leads to false readings ;)

Just to follow on from what metallicafastcat and gentlemann said about nozzles, I glue mine in place on the tappet plate using the cylinder head already fitted in the cylinder as a brace for it while it sets, but before you do it you have to make sure the cylinder head/cylinder/hop chamber all align perfectly
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