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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been trying to achieve a good seal on my Well L96 for a good while now. My cylinder seal is perfect but im having trouble with the seal between the cylinder head and the hopup bucking. Im using an aeg bucking and barrel with R hop and have tried multiple different hop rubbers but none of them seal properly. Does anyone have any tips?
 

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Octavia VRS
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What Hop Unit are you using?

I found the Airsoft Pro unit was terrible for air seal.
I found the AA hop unit the best for air seal.
I’d also recommend getting PTFE tape around the end of the bucking towards the barrel to help keep the seal as well.
I did this with all my AEG buckings on my Maruzen and Well.

Hope this helps mate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What Hop Unit are you using?

I found the Airsoft Pro unit was terrible for air seal.
I found the AA hop unit the best for air seal.
I’d also recommend getting PTFE tape around the end of the bucking towards the barrel to help keep the seal as well.
I did this with all my AEG buckings on my Maruzen and Well.

Hope this helps mate.
I have the Airsoft pro unit yeah and I've done the PTFE tape mod. I guess its time to upgrade to the AA unit then haha. Thanks for the reply
 

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Octavia VRS
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I have the Airsoft pro unit yeah and I've done the PTFE tape mod. I guess its time to upgrade to the AA unit then haha. Thanks for the reply
No worries pal, hope it works out.
Made a huge difference for me!
 

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I just upgraded from a PDI v.1 to AA and its night and day. I could only get a good seal with the PDI using rtv sealant at the barrel securing hex screws and the end retaining collar. The AA unit is much more user friendly, and you can remove the barrel easier without destroying the bucking like the PDI unit does. Like stated above, use some teflon tape with it to ensure a seal. I chronoed mine with and without teflon and saw no change in FPS, so it does have a good seal. I am using a maple leaf MR hop 80% bucking and prom 6.03 barrel. If your cylinder head nozzle is under 6mm in diameter, you will have a poor seal. I have an old Laylax stainless cylinder head that was 5.88mm dia. Had terrible seal so I tig welded on it with silicon bronze filler metal, then turned it on a lathe to be 6.15mm thinking it would seal better. I chronoed it, and it was same power as my "newer" PDI cylinder head that is exactly 6.00mm (5fps variance with .40g bbs). So i turned the modified head down to 6.05mm so it wouldn't be stretching the entrance o-ring. I have a Modify cylinder head on its way i am going to try next. When changing up parts like cylinders, outer barrel, receiver, hop chambers, and heads, i find its important to know where your cylinder head lands in relation to your hop chamber. I put a tiny ball of clay on the head, and cycle the bolt. Then take the bolt out, and see how flat that ball of clay is. It will tell you how far your nozzle is feeding into the chamber.
 
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