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HPA Experienced players

1545 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  mateba
To be clear, this is NOT a "which gun" thread (I think I have a way of wording things weird since my thread have, on occation been misunderstood). So here is the deal.

I am considering an HPA set up (possibly CO2, but ideally HPA). I have read through some of the very good articles we have on here about how to set up a rig and what parts to get already, but they just haven't "covered all the bases" so to say. What I am looking for would be reviews on your experiences building HPA and remote rigs, which guns are the easiset to work on, how they are modified etc.

For example we all know that the BAR-10, USR-10 etc are all clones of the VSR, but since we dont really have a "Gas forum" it is rare that we get enough threads in the various forums to justify a "gas gun forum".

So what are the base models you guys work off of and why? Thanks!
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Generally Tanaka models, KJW, Ares, Well, classic rifles are the ones that are used with HPA.
Well the money you spend on upgrading a kjw, you should just by tanaka but that is my opinion. Also the master of gas on this forum is wanko, so you should shoot him a pm.
Metaba is another good guy to message about HPA set ups.

And like was said.... the main forum to look at would be the Tanaka sub forum. Being as that is the main rifle that is gas. The others are all good, but the main base is a Tanaka.
hidden187 said:
Well the money you spend on upgrading a kjw, you should just by tanaka but that is my opinion. Also the master of gas on this forum is wanko, so you should shoot him a pm.
Wow, I totally disagree. (with your opinion about Name brands not Wonko. All hail Wonko! And his endless pursuit of rare replicas. The lucky [email protected]@rd!). I'll try to relate this to springers so most of you "other guys" might understand better. I'm not trying to pick on you hidden187, but I rarely post unless something gets my attention. :)

You buy a gun and guess what? It's stock performance is no where near your fantasy lead you to believe. Its the same for every other *ucking replica out there unless you got lucky on a used gun. Big surprise, you now own a base to build off of, these are also known as money holes. Lets say you just bought a TM VSR-10. Whats the Zero-trigger run, $200+? Well, you're not done with your VSR-10 yet are you? You still want and scope, TBB, bucking, mags, maybe a spring or a suppressor... for me, the list would go on form there. An air rig is the same for most gas rifles minus the recent GBBRs unless you really don't care about reloading. They are the single most performance increasing part you can add to a gas replica. Tanakas are money holes and more so than most replicas out there. I don't see much difference between a KJW besides the $300. You basically end up buying all the same upgrades for either system anyway. I liked the ARES AW-338 for some of its advantages but ARES as a company is, well as Simon and Garfunkel said, a bridge over stormy water.

Mroverkill hit the nail on the head. Thats pretty much it. If you are serious about classics this the wrong forum for you. You can go over the classic airsoft forums right now and buy Booster's Customs Asahi M16 carbine for $600+ and rock BBs out past 250' easy with a 30' MED. Yeah its a 400FPS rifle. LRBs are the ticket but are not always sniper friendly. Classics are far superior is quality than what we are normally used to seeing. My Asahi is around 25 years old and has been on at least three continents. They are build to last.

Buy an air rig and worst case scenario you keep it around for side projects. I have used mine for classics (DG AMD-65, SP-16, Asahi M60 SDX, Kokusai Crimebuster), a KJW, an Ares, and my TM 1911. I sure AirsoftGI will have something else for me soon to hook up to it. I look at them as alternatives to nice batteries and chargers. They are just more gear.

Used HPA tanks can be bought at some fields or from people just like anything else. Just check the hydro and make sure you have a year or so at least before you have to hydro test it. On avaerage hydro tests cost $35 so keep that in mind if its worth it to you or to just buy a new one. My 20os Co2 tanks are starting to expire and I'll just part them out and buy more used.

I give you that classics are expensive and in most cases you'll end up spending more after you have bought your replica. Just like any replica purchase right? And be honest, its more so if its an AEG or bolt action. The difference is whether you are willing to nickel and dime your paypal account until you get your replica to perform the way you want it to. Classics are usually bought used and with their track record and upgrades they are a steal if you are willing to pay the lump sum up front. A $600 used classic might have cost the original owner over $1500 by the end. Ask Wonko about classics and their quality and bang for the buck.

Admitted, a little off topic. Sorry mods. I'm enjoying my Friday afternoon "neat."

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Thanks Mateba! I actually have a Palmers reg and a CO2 set up already that I was using on some other projects I have worked on in the past. I'm waiting on an HPA tank until I have a gun ready to run it (I'm looking at a ninja tank). I understand where everyone is coming from on this. Mateba, what exactly is it that makes classics more robust than other GBBs or gas guns in general? I have been trying to find resources that show the breakdown and internals of a classic, but most of the forums I have seen are very vague or dead on the topic and have turned to contemporary GBBs.
Your welcome!

I pm'ed the response as a side note to another question.

This is the gist of my response. BV guns are so robust due to few moving parts and Japanese design and quality from three decades ago. BV engines run on constant gas flow and basically have an unlimited amount of gas volume. This is why they are so well suited for LRBs. Once gas enters the gun it flows through the trigger valve and eventually in the mag, out of the mag and into the sub-chamber. BBs are pushed by the gas and once one enters the BV shuttle the replica will seal off until building pressure forces the BB through an o-ring and down the barrel. The shuttle returns and picks up the next BB.
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