[BroHay]

I am an addict. I HAVE A PROBLEM (first step towards building is admitting my faults )

combing forum, but looking for seasoned advice in the meantime ro help fast track.....

ssg10 in either A1/A3 stock.

Cheers,
BroHay

 

[Blind Sniper]

I would recommend the electronic bolt and not the M, but everyone has their preference

 

[timjfro]

I would recommend the electronic bolt and not the M, but everyone has their preference

i had issues with my bolt electronic, which receiver do you think works the best?

 

[SiliconeSword]

What were your issues?
I've had some, but they were always user error or easily solved.

 

[Blind Sniper]

I use a lot of aftermarket receivers like AA, AirsoftPro or maple leaf. I never really have receiver issues though. If the pull was tight or hung up, I’ve learned that some cylinders don’t have a wide enough slot for the Bolt fitting. But there could be other small issues. Easily fixed as Mr. Sword said.

 

[BroHay]

So, ends up coming across a multitude of hpa m4/sniper builds for someone who was getting out.

My question is this.....

JG bar10 with Mancraft sdik in manual.

The trigger will not catch, can I install a ssg10 trigger without issue since or are the kits dependent on being 45 or 90°?

Cheers,
BroHay

 

[BroHay]

Also, I do not know if the front nozzle, part that would make contact with hop, is original to JG or Mancraft. It DOES NOT make real good engagement with the bolt and the previous owner had used a myriad of tapes to get it to seal.

Can the sdik use the Novritsch bolt or is there one specifically from Mancraft that allows for a shorter throw?

BroHay

 

[RonSwanson]

Also, I do not know if the front nozzle, part that would make contact with hop, is original to JG or Mancraft. It DOES NOT make real good engagement with the bolt and the previous owner had used a myriad of tapes to get it to seal.

Can the sdik use the Novritsch bolt or is there one specifically from Mancraft that allows for a shorter throw?

BroHay

Sounds like a rifle that is either well used and needs an overhaul if not complete replacement or really badly built.

Anything can be repaired but it's the experience and cost, without seeing the rifle my first instinct is to avoid it based on that description to be honest.

 

[BroHay]

Well, on to the experience.....

This is most likely first gen type hardware. Heck, even the Mancraft reg is probably from 5+ years ago (only able to see from the date of YT video I have seen it in)

I will probably start with the trigger box and see if using a new(er) allows the bolt to catch. If successful, then maybe tear into the JG box to see might be wrong with it or if its just wore out.

I never really tore things apart until I started playing airsoft but part of me is enjoying the teching side of things.

This is new territory for me and when I get back home, I'll post some pictures to help paint a better picture.

Cheers,
BroHay

 

[BroHay]

So, I assembled the piston and had to use Teflon and electrical tape to get the nozzle to stay fixed.

I then took apart the trigger box to see what might be going on inside. Did not see anything noticeable.

I got the bolt pull to be minimal and also to catch and not pull like it would if it was setup for springer.

My poor attempt now follows.....

Does this system need to be pressurized to hold things in place or can it cycle like a spring setup?

I can rack the bolt and if it is rearward, it won't fire if held still, but any movement or trying to push the bolt forward causes it to fire.

There is a part that pivots inside the box, is that suppose to apply pressure to the top of the trigger until depressed to fire? I have adjustments that push/pull trigger (front to back) and I have tried to maximize contact and as soon as I release the bolt, it wants to fire.

There is also a Allen screw in front of the trigger that I have not figured out its purpose but all the in/out does not appear to stop firing when it is released.

Is the ukarms box considered a 45° trigger?

I pulled a Novritsch ssg10 trigger box, but the vertical post that was removed (assuming) to make the path for the airline in the UK arms allows no space to route. Is this suppose to be routed differently by drilling or some there means?

There are other things to note, as far as space between trigger box to try and make tighter.

Can surfaces be filed to make sharp corners as opposed to rounded?

If the box it just wore out, what is a suitable replacement?

Thanks.
BroHay

 

[BroHay]

So, "slam firing" would be the scenario I am experiencing on this particular build. Seeing that there is an actual bolt that is used in conjunction with the engine also explains why the nozzle requires tape to make it stay in a fixed position.

I am seeing this rabbit hole going much deeper than I had hoped.....

Top it off with an f1/wraith co2 stock that is mangled and chewed up o-rings. Good times.....

Think I should have listen to experience .....

Cheers,
BroHay

 

[BroHay]

Would Angel Customs sear set be viable for installation in this trigger?

Angel Custom Advanced Precision Steel Piston & Trigger Sear Set for VSR-10 Sniper Rifles

BroHay

 

[SiliconeSword]

I'd look for just whatever is the cheapest, check eBay, Hopup, ASGI, and the usual places. I let go of what was probably a set of these for like $15 a few months ago lol.

 

[BroHay]

And those places I am looking. It is more of "will they work/be compatible"

Thanks for the confirmation.

BroHay

 

[SiliconeSword]

Any cheap trigger should work.

It sounds like the trigger is not catching, which may just be due to a weak trigger spring or it's binding on something.
Try removing the cylinder completely, and use your finger or something to act as a pretend piston, and see how much force you can put on the little catch thing, and try pulling the trigger as well.

 

[BroHay]

Nobody seems to have o-rings in stock for variety of repairs.

Has anyone gone the route of general assortment to effect a repair?

Harbor freight
Auromotive
Amazon?

Thanks,
BroHay

 

[SiliconeSword]

If you have calipers or a precise ruler, measure your O-ring and then get a couple sizes that are less .5mm bigger or smaller.

 

[BroHay]

So, looked at some kits and they were the less durable rings (nitrile) as opposed to poly.

I am thinking about this kit, and if it do t work, send it back.....

Hopefully it is the last kit I have to purchase.

BroHay

 

[SiliconeSword]

I would caution against that kit if you think it will have the O-ring you need, you are MUCH better off searching the actual size you need.

I should know, I blew $30 on some set, and have used them for very little save for hop chamber depth spacers on an M4.

 

[BroHay]

There is a supplier/manufacturer in the city that I am awaiting a callback to see how they sell (by piece or bulk).

Hopefully this option works and I can make my repair and try/play a new setup this weekend a p* f1.

Also, added a trigger with my order from Evike (cheap one) to see if I can get the SDiK to hold and not slam fire. (I'm hoping that the rear part of the bolt is for a 45° trigger and not 90°......

Cheers,
BroHay