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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am an addict. I HAVE A PROBLEM (first step towards building is admitting my faults ;) )

combing forum, but looking for seasoned advice in the meantime ro help fast track.....

ssg10 in either A1/A3 stock.

Cheers,
BroHay

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, ends up coming across a multitude of hpa m4/sniper builds for someone who was getting out.

My question is this.....

JG bar10 with Mancraft sdik in manual.

The trigger will not catch, can I install a ssg10 trigger without issue since or are the kits dependent on being 45 or 90°?

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also, I do not know if the front nozzle, part that would make contact with hop, is original to JG or Mancraft. It DOES NOT make real good engagement with the bolt and the previous owner had used a myriad of tapes to get it to seal.

Can the sdik use the Novritsch bolt or is there one specifically from Mancraft that allows for a shorter throw?

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, on to the experience.....

This is most likely first gen type hardware. Heck, even the Mancraft reg is probably from 5+ years ago (only able to see from the date of YT video I have seen it in)

I will probably start with the trigger box and see if using a new(er) allows the bolt to catch. If successful, then maybe tear into the JG box to see might be wrong with it or if its just wore out.

I never really tore things apart until I started playing airsoft but part of me is enjoying the teching side of things.

This is new territory for me and when I get back home, I'll post some pictures to help paint a better picture.

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, I assembled the piston and had to use Teflon and electrical tape to get the nozzle to stay fixed.

I then took apart the trigger box to see what might be going on inside. Did not see anything noticeable.

I got the bolt pull to be minimal and also to catch and not pull like it would if it was setup for springer.

My poor attempt now follows.....

Does this system need to be pressurized to hold things in place or can it cycle like a spring setup?

I can rack the bolt and if it is rearward, it won't fire if held still, but any movement or trying to push the bolt forward causes it to fire.

There is a part that pivots inside the box, is that suppose to apply pressure to the top of the trigger until depressed to fire? I have adjustments that push/pull trigger (front to back) and I have tried to maximize contact and as soon as I release the bolt, it wants to fire.

There is also a Allen screw in front of the trigger that I have not figured out its purpose but all the in/out does not appear to stop firing when it is released.

Is the ukarms box considered a 45° trigger?

I pulled a Novritsch ssg10 trigger box, but the vertical post that was removed (assuming) to make the path for the airline in the UK arms allows no space to route. Is this suppose to be routed differently by drilling or some there means?

There are other things to note, as far as space between trigger box to try and make tighter.

Can surfaces be filed to make sharp corners as opposed to rounded?

If the box it just wore out, what is a suitable replacement?

Thanks.
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So, "slam firing" would be the scenario I am experiencing on this particular build. Seeing that there is an actual bolt that is used in conjunction with the engine also explains why the nozzle requires tape to make it stay in a fixed position.

I am seeing this rabbit hole going much deeper than I had hoped.....

Top it off with an f1/wraith co2 stock that is mangled and chewed up o-rings. Good times.....

Think I should have listen to experience .....

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nobody seems to have o-rings in stock for variety of repairs.

Has anyone gone the route of general assortment to effect a repair?

Harbor freight
Auromotive
Amazon?

Thanks,
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So, looked at some kits and they were the less durable rings (nitrile) as opposed to poly.

I am thinking about this kit, and if it do t work, send it back.....

Hopefully it is the last kit I have to purchase.

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
There is a supplier/manufacturer in the city that I am awaiting a callback to see how they sell (by piece or bulk).

Hopefully this option works and I can make my repair and try/play a new setup this weekend a p* f1.

Also, added a trigger with my order from Evike (cheap one) to see if I can get the SDiK to hold and not slam fire. (I'm hoping that the rear part of the bolt is for a 45° trigger and not 90°......

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Being that it worked for a period of time, before slam firing, I hopefully did not make the dreaded "assume" mistake.

And it initially held, albeit briefly, when I first inspected and started acting up once home.

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So, trigger solved the slam fire issue and I am over one hurdle.

However, being new to hpa, I have a redline regulator that holds fine with co2 cannister, but if you let it be, it'll keep climbing in pressure.

Any suggestions?

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
It is a Redline SFR that I picked up from hopup (actually a pr 2 for 1 and the other holds like expected).

When I first charged, it would climb immediately. Fired it it for a cartridge and then settled. Left it alone for 1, 3, 5+ and it maintained. Came back after 20 mins or so, and had climbed again (to the point where I heard the release valve venting like a slow air leak that made me think the QD was leaking.

Shoots consistently +/- 2fps, just creeps if left alone.....

I replaced an o-ring, and saw the stack of washers, but did not remove any. I will see how to r/r and try a maintenance service and inspect for any visible damage.

I was hoping to swap the engine out into a ssg and play a round today with it, but I do not want to have the chance of it causing injury.

Could something be happening in the engine itself to let it creep?

More playing around needs to occur.

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Solved with oring replacement/service?

On these gun builds:

I have learned a lesson..... If someone is wanting to sell things, and their answer is simple and generic about performance, walk away.

I enjoy a challenge, but this time I am really having to work at it. I got a few misc pieces coming, and if this don't fix the issues, I am going to kick it on down the road having the next party be that much closer to the finish line.....WITH full disclosure of what I have done up to this point

***but may still asked questions to ensure I am not inches away.....

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I went on the recommendation of other HPA players. Plus I got x3 regs for 200 for two builds and a backup (other gun is for son).

Can the part that reads pressure be swapped out? On the mancraft, it is in bar and stuck at a readout of 8 (not zero)

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well, it is the hurry up and wait game.....

Parts coming from Mancraft to see if it can be salvaged for the JG build.

Parts coming from Wolverine for the Wraith stock (co2 spike is also bad so added that to an oring set.

The regs are a bit of a bummer, but maybe that is why you find more on the secondhand market than other brands (but I do like the compact size and overall length when using with the mancraft co2 element in the stock pouch when carrying.

Patience was needed to be exercised, but guess ya can't trust everything you read on the net.....

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
These purchases were local from my field.

I correctly identified the bar10 with the sear, but other items that were not seen without disassembly were (obviously) missed. Compounded by dealing with international shipping/supply, it'll cross the pond eventually....

I have a polarstar ugs, purchased new, that has worked flawlessly. The Wraith, is a steaming pile of poo by comparison. Compounded by the fact of it being all marred and chewed up from being assembled incorrectly. Knicks right inline with o-rings which are hopefully fixed by the kit with rings that are thicker than what I previously usly sourced. If they are the same thickness, in the bin it goes..... One of the screws holes to secure reg inside of the hugger tube is enlarged that is suppose to limit movement.

Again, waiting on parts from Wolverine, saying order complete, but no shipping info/updates from last week.

On the bright side, I am picking up more work from the tech side of things that is helping me better understand the changes needed for my own personal projects. And so far, expectations have been exceeded, but I am waiting for that one where it will not be met......

Cheers,
BroHay
 
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