[Nitzky03]

Hello everyone!
Since i saw a video with an hpa vsr10 i want to build one.
Here comes my question: Is it worth it upgrading to an hpa system since the volume of the vsr cylinder isnt that great.
Money doesnt play a role i want the answer regarding to two bulletpoints. First and foremost the accuracy (most important) and the volume.

Is there someone out there that has experience with an fully upgraded spring vsr10 and also a fully upgraded hpa vsr10?
pls let me know and sorry for my bad english:/

 

[SiliconeSword]

Oh fuck yeah man, it's so worth going HPA when you have a VSR-10, easily the best sniper you can get without making one from scratch like I am.

I've had a VSR that I made an engine for when I was still a good, which I destroyed and then threw away when I tried some cringe bullpup mod on it.
I've upgraded a springer half assedly and didn't totally vibe with it.
And I got an Echo1 PSR-10 with a Wolverine BOLT back in 2019 for an insane deal, where I swapped the engine to the TM G-spec springer and the springer parts to the Echo1.

I rocked that setup with my own nub, a lapped Airsoft Philosopher 6.04X475 barrel, Action Army chamber, homemade one piece receiver, and a bunch of diy stuff I machined for it.
The gun was super quiet, really accurate, and genuinely the best sniper I have ever seen or used. I've tried a number of cheap guns, a couple Silverback SRSs, an SSG10, and like one other VSR, and this was just the best.

If you do this, I suggest that you copy this build list
Novritsch SSG10 parts
A3 stock(or whatever looks cool to you)
Receiver or (whatever looks cool to you)
Outer barrel (or whatever looks cool, but no taper barrels)
Suppressor adapter

For other parts
Wolverine BOLT electronic or nothing
Wolverine cylinder (totally worth it)
Slong Airsoft 45° trigger box (or stock trigger)
ESCW 5.98 barrel
Action Army red chamber
My nub(free to make, peep my signature)
Maple Leaf 2021 Autobot 75°
Orange guide sleeve from Longbowbb I think

Diy stuff
One piece receiver, I can describe this if you'd like
My nub as mentioned
Ejection port cover, find a cool looking beer or soda can and put a slice in your receiver
And lastly, upgrade your air line to a 1/4 inch line.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

If you can get these 3 things in your country then that's good, but I have a roll of this line and can buy these parts and ship them to you for a small fee if that isn't an option, or you don't want 50 feet of air line.

Anyways, glad to hear that somebody wants to start off on the most kickass sniper available, and something I can give first rate info on.

 

[Nitzky03]

Thanks for ya reply. I've done a bit of research about this topic and wrote a 2 A4 sites in Word but im not finished yet, I'll post it as soon as possible. But im confused, AA says that they sell a one piece receiver but what I heard so far is that a one piece receiver is the combination od the receiver and the outer barrel. Both are made from one piece of metal. It is used because there is a wubble between the outer and the receiver. The problem is that Reliku how offered that didn't he, has left the business as much as I know. Are there other options?

 

[Akami]

One piece receiver means the receiver and the receiver tail is one piece. Some brand uses separate tail so that it's cheaper to convert the gun into left handed.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Well a standard receiver is a two piece where an end piece can come off, but the more popular meaning is an outer barrel permanently affixed to a receiver. There is definitely wobble and I have found it to be rather annoying if I took my gun in and out of a case, as it would change zero.

You can make one with epoxy and a machined/printed sleeve, or buy one, but that is less of an option.
Careful dipped for some reason a while ago, but his were steel and therefore heavy.
Reliku dipped, came back, and dipped likely due to german gun laws being pretty messed up. Not surprised if he quit airsoft due to legal stuff involving his receivers.
Bulltrigg is gone rn but may be back with his receivers, they seemed good and may be available used if you go on a FB group and ask.
And then the is @Masada who's receivers may give you a run for you money with your budget, and he may not have any available.
I may or may not offer my own at some point, but if I ever do it will likely be a good deal after you have built this gun.

Making a one piece out of parts isn't hard though, just pick a cool receiver, cool STRAIGHT WALLED outer barrell, and glue them together.

 

[Masada]

Ya, here "one piece" means the receiver and outer barrel are made from one continuous piece of metal. The whole purpose was to remove that weak connection between the receiver and outer barrel giving you better nozzle to hop up alignment. There are other ways of accomplishing this too so I wouldn't take it as the best thing ever. I've made a decent amount of one piece receivers and while they do guarantee that rigidity you are also sacrificing a lot of the configuration and assembly practices that a two piece design has.

HPA is great for easy configuration and easy bolt pulls, however spring also gets you some benefits with regards to simplicity and heavier bbs. Personally, I like the combination of a Bolt M (or the Mancraft equivalent) and an on-rifle tank and regulator. That way you get the benefits of the simplicity (no batteries) as well as no air lines. It's also very nice to be able to match your guns output to the fields rules without having to take the whole thing apart and replace the spring.

Not to toot my own horn too much, but this is basically what you want lol:

 

[SiliconeSword]

Haven't tried that, how's the barrel weight feel?

I'm not sure how good the M is, but the E is able to get 6 duplicate FPS readings in a row if your hop, barrel, BBs, and reg are perfect.

 

[Masada]

Haven't tried that, how's the barrel weight feel?

I'm not sure how good the M is, but the E is able to get 6 duplicate FPS readings in a row if your hop, barrel, BBs, and reg are perfect.

It's not too front heavy somehow. Overall weight is about what my last spring build was, although that had a longer barrel and more stuff inside.

On my Bolt M it's been able to give duplicate FPS readings as well. Obviously everything on this is perfectly aligned, even more so than any other sniper rifle I've seen by nature of how the chamber works on my design. I can see how in a system that isn't well set up how the Bolt M could cause problems though. I also remade half of the Bolt M to work with 90 degree triggers. Not sure that would make a difference.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Prolly because the S2 stock is a bit heavy, so it all balances out lol.
Probably still lighter than a combat bolt gun though, as barrels are usually longer and are solid steel, along with all the other metal usually.

I feel like a top tier 90* trigger could give more consistent readings, especially on HPA. Probably something to do with sear release I bet, since I think some are faster and more consistent than others.
User wise, I still think the E is the way to go as you can slap in a big battery in the stock and check it every 6 months.

 

[Masada]

I like that you still maintain good trigger feel with the M, as opposed to the button on the electronic. Also means you can't shoot the M unless the gun is cocked, whereas the E will shoot regardless.

 

[Nitzky03]

Where are the differences regarding the sound. Many people say that the M is too loud. I want to build a gun as silence as possible so I don't know which engine I should buy.
And I also like to have no airline but the problem is that there are no satisfying options out there to put the tank into your stock. UGS looks cool but there is no stock which has the propper M4 thread to mount the tank. I saw your creation, have you built it already?

 

[SiliconeSword]

The E is likely quieter, mine got extremely quiet after building a great suppressor and doing sound dampening mods on the stock and receiver.

For tanks, you could use something like mine or a 13/3000 inside of the stock, but that is a bit irritating to do and I never really finished that project. I don't really hate air lines, people bring that up too much, and the only reason I don't use my big tank more is because not having a line looks cooler. I also get away with a lot more at the field since people are dicks to HPA owners where I'm at, and since I fill my own tanks nobody really pays much attention.

I'd say do the Masada 13/3000 thing with 30mm scope rings and some sort of bracket thing, or just use a tank. I suggest you tie a rope to the very end of your gun to a backpack with some other gun, and see what it's like. It's really not at all bad unless you walk away from your gun a lot.

 

[Masinmees]

Where are the differences regarding the sound. Many people say that the M is too loud. I want to build a gun as silence as possible so I don't know which engine I should buy.
And I also like to have no airline but the problem is that there are no satisfying options out there to put the tank into your stock. UGS looks cool but there is no stock which has the propper M4 thread to mount the tank. I saw your creation, have you built it already?

I've built HPA sniper with Bolt E and UGS stock using heavily modified real steel MDT HS3 chassis. Unfortunately MDT doesn't produce it anymore.

MDT HS3 Wolverine BOLT

I've owned wolverine BOLT for four years now and I'm really happy with its performance. Superb consistency and easy bolt pull are key features for me (we have up to 4J limit for bolt action rifles in my country). Only thing what I didn't like was a hose and the air tank on my back because it...

www.airsoftsniperforum.com

 

[Masada]

Where are the differences regarding the sound. Many people say that the M is too loud. I want to build a gun as silence as possible so I don't know which engine I should buy.
And I also like to have no airline but the problem is that there are no satisfying options out there to put the tank into your stock. UGS looks cool but there is no stock which has the propper M4 thread to mount the tank. I saw your creation, have you built it already?

I built a prototype stock but the design still needs work so it’s not done currently.

As for sound, yes the M is very loud unsuppressed (which is how I run it). However, I threw my stand G-Spec suppressor on and it changed it basically silent. I would think as long as you use a suppressor it would be fine.

 

[Hamlet]

I want to see a some kind of translation of the nitro piston of air rifles in to the airsoft

 

[SiliconeSword]

I think that you would still be better off with a spring due to their compact nature, ease of maintenance/use, and power output.

In air rifles you have a large mechanical lever to compress a huge spring or nitro piston, but I am not sure if a scaled down nitro piston would give you the same or more power for an equivalent pull force to cock the gun.
Also, in PCP airguns some use Helium gas instead of compressed air or pure Nitrogen, and they gain a shit ton of power even with the same pressure inside their cylinder. I guess Helium being lighter makes it more elastic and faster moving than any other gas, so maybe you would get more power for the same amount of prime force in a piston system if Helium were used instead of Nitrogen. One better thing than that would be Hydrogen as that is the lightest of all gasses, but there may be issues with it leaking(Helium too), as well as the fact that it is really flammable even when compared to propane.