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Thanks for that post it helped alot what would you recommend for a JG BAR10 not upgraded I just got one and it is completely stock and im going to upgrade the barrel grouping first that's what i hear will do the best and if I get a longer barrel will i need a mock silencer to cover it up or will it be the correct length and I cant find either of those long barrels anywhere please send me to a link for a longer barrel.

Thanks,
Jacob
 

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I got a question. If you make your piston shorter you should get more cylinder volume - at least my theory. If someone with the will and funds is trying to test that we could end the rule of the VSRs ;)
A shorter piston just enought for the sears to catch it generates much higher FPS.. not from the air volume but from the speed the piston travels. We actually lessen the air volume by using a smaller ID cylinder then combined with a shorter piston. from 650FPs on our Sp02 with the new piston and smaller ID cylinder 700+FPS is easy.

for this reason we made an ajustable piston wherein you can extend the length for low fps and short stroke set up and can be shorten for high FPS.





 

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That looks like a funny setup. Would allow you to match your cylinder to your barrel rather than the other way round. Interesting!
Would it?

The whole voluming idea is predicated on matching air volume to the compression of that air, the BB mass used, and the barrel length.

EdGI's system only changes the speed at which the piston travels, potentially increasing the compression rate, but not the actual volume of air.
 

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Yes, it would, by the looks of it. The volume in the cylinder is the amount of air that's compressed. By making the piston longer the piston head is further forward, so the volume of air that's compressed is smaller. Thus effectively, your cylinder volume changes. You can make it bigger or smaller that way.
 

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Yes, it would, by the looks of it. The volume in the cylinder is the amount of air that's compressed. By making the piston longer the piston head is further forward, so the volume of air that's compressed is smaller. Thus effectively, your cylinder volume changes. You can make it bigger or smaller that way.
Good point.

I was thinking of EdGI's super compact pistons. If you were to use those, the air volume would not change because the port location has not changed. I did not think about lengthening the long version piston to intrude past the port so that volume is reduced.

I guess I'm stuck in the 0.66g mindset where max air volume is preferred. I've completely glossed over the smaller weights.
 

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Hi Sumta

This is a good write up but not all the info is correct or has not been proven.
The two questions that most people wonder about with barrels are, "what is the best length barrel?" and "is wider bore better than tight bore?" These two points in your thread I believe have been answered wrong.

For example:
It says tight bore is not good for long range. There is no proof to say if tight bore is better or wide bore is better. People have only surmised that wide is better but this is only guess work. The only real proof we have is that all the longest shots on this forum were made with 5.98mm tight bore inner barrels.

Also, the thread recommends a 455mm long barrel as best. This does not take into account bb weight or the cylinder volume. Different bb weights need different compression ratios to get the most efficiency. I know that for the VSR10 these are the best barrel lengths to get the most efficiency:

0.3gm bb use a 554mm barrel (15821 mm^3) = 2.26:1
0.32gm bb use a 530mm barrel (15136 mm^3) = 2.36:1
0.36gm bb use a 500mm barrel (14279 mm^3) = 2.51:1
0.4gm bb use a 470mm barrel (13422 mm^3) = 2.67:1

0.43gm bb use a 430mm barrel (12279 mm^3) = 2.92:1
0.45gm bb use a 400mm Barrel (11423 mm^3) = 3.13:1


So there is no fixed best barrel length. It depends on your cylinder size, bb weight and also barrel diameter (can create too much waist air).

These points need to be corrected as they are very important points.
If they are not corrected, then I would suggest the thread is unstickied as these are some of the most important points when choosing a barrel and people believe the thread to be gospel.

I would rather your thread stay stickied as a lot of the other info is good. It just needs altering a little

One other thing in the thread is that you mention barrel suck. This does happen in spring rifles like the VSR10 but not in AEG's as the air nozzle retracts and lets in air behind the bb. So in some circumstances it is correct but not always. But this point is not as important as the 2 previous points I mentioned.
 

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I'm using a 715mm ZCI SS 6.02 in my Real Sword SVD and it's pretty consistent on hitting a chimney-stack over 300ft away with AGL 0.4g BBs.
An AEG has a different setup to most sniper rifles and so they can take longer barrels although the longer barrels still are not optimal. You should try a 250mm inner barrel and see how that goes.
 

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Lucky snipers. The only thing a sniper (performance wise) has over an AEG is cylinder volume.

Is there any way to increase the cylinder volume in an AEG?
And please, no "just use HPA" because I'd much rather stick to the mechanical versions of both AEG and sniper.
 

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Lucky snipers. The only thing a sniper (performance wise) has over an AEG is cylinder volume.

Is there any way to increase the cylinder volume in an AEG?
And please, no "just use HPA" because I'd much rather stick to the mechanical versions of both AEG and sniper.
shorter inner barrel with tighter inner diameter ( 6.00, 6.01,...), use bore-up cylinder.
 
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