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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Fairly new to sniping (about 2 wks)Just how liberal can one be with silicon oil w/o it causing problems down the line?

And what is a good grease lubricant safe for these moveable parts?

SSG with WASP piston and m180 spring. Standard hop and bucking (apologize if I am not using correct terms for describing parts).

As I was going thru configurations to see what is optimum, the head on the piston quit wanting to pop out of its cylinder. I use to have to push down (met with resistance) to try and screw the nozzle of the bolt on (part that feeds into the hopup). It'll now stay down making it ALOT easier to assemble. I sometimes have to use a bit of persuasion to remove piston if it has not been fully assembled and fired.

Just as sticking piston started happening, lost around .4J from my heavy cylinder/med brake setup.

Good airseal. 6-7 drops of silicon oil on head from initial assembly. Have cleaned and checked all components.

I want to get back in the neighborhood of 2.68J since I had obtained it prior to trying different air brakes. This happened right after I went back to my hvy/med combo to verify it was indeed the best setup .

Shot the gun this evening, 10 (X5 .43 and X5 .36) all around 2.3J and 340(.43) and 370 FPS.

I'll continue to poke around and find more info, but have not seen anything describing this scenario (yet.....)

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Oils move and seep which is why I don't typically use them. As for greases, super lube, TechT, molykote 111, molykote 55, Tamiya Cera Grease, just to name a few. Basically any lube that is silicone based or PTFE based is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have some TechT coming. Is application to be sparse to help mitigate movement through nozzle into hop/inner?

Aittle excess helps keep things pliable (standard hop)?

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also, in going down various rabbit holes, does anyone put any buffer between the rear of the cylinder and spring guide?

Does it quiet or have some minimal impact on volume?

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, after reading some great posts regarding tactics and understanding bb flight path, I decided to go do some more testing/shooting.

Towards the end of about 150 rds, I changed the spring to a m160. Dropped .4J, but the bolt pull was way easier (but I am after that original value of around 2.68J.

Put the m180 back in, and now shooting around 1.98J, down .32 from where I was before the lesser spring change (and .7 from when I started recoding data).

Could it be something as simple.as not enough lubrication and things sticking?

If application of TechT does not increase numbers, what other avenues to chase?

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Don't put anything in the back of the cylinder. You will have nothing but problems if you do.

For lube, use enough to wet your seals, that is it. Basically minimal. You could put a small amount on the outside of the bucking, but not necessary. Never put any on the inside of the bucking. Will wreck your accuracy and hop.

As for your power dropping, likely damaged oring or your springs are shit quality, or the springs are settling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This morning:

Took cylinder out and tested for air leaks. Held for 10, 15, and 30 seconds with a similar sounding "thunk' when finger released of of nozzle.

As for o-ring, since using a WASP, except for the piston head, i see no other rubber. The only rings, I see, are the ones that are used to secure the cylinder in place.

Guess it is time to read the writeup on springs and see about sourcing different make and power options stateside.

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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hopup settings can drastically change fps too. I can go +- 50fps just by increasing/decreasing hopup.

I like RAPAX springs. Easy to install and consistent power output between springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Or 200 FPS when you are shooting .2 and your hop is off and chronos 252.

I back tracked a bit to see what I was chronoing @ with .2's.

1.9J @ 452 with a thunderous whap/pinging sound. (obviously the piston/spring combo is pushing the lighter bb out before the cycle is complete. .36-43 give a more desirable result.

Ordereditems from Empire, and the springs are a no name brand ( like rapax/laylax/etc), irregular pitch, and based on the outputs I am getting (w/o adding add'l weight for complete/exit to be closer) around an m140-50 based on general info found on this forum.

Still trying to get an understand on general operation, as opposed to actual hard data based on what actual setup is for my rifle.

I tried one stop shop, w/o having to pay multiple shipping fees, but I'll grab my son's Rapax 3+ and see what results are generated, as well as play with the adjuster rings to see what the next order will be......

Cheers,
BroHay



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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, instead of me swapping springs, I just cleaned up my son's ssg with a Rapax 3+ and WASP.

.36 (med/med) 2.21 @ 364
.36 (hvy/med) 2.05 @ 350

These results, albeit quickly obtained , are under what my no name ,irregular pitch m180 spring is shooting from Empire (2.31 at 372)*

*both are stock hop, long outer with stock or inner.

Even though I have been looking at ALOT of info, do any of you have any insight as to what is happening. If the springs are rated for upto 3J, is it only obtained with inner and hopup upgrades?

Or needs to be a short barrel setup and the longer length is impacted negatively somehow?

I probably have it rattling upstairs somewhere, I just have not had the 'a-ha' momment to fully understand.

Cheers ,
BroHay

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Oh right WASP pistons have cup seals. Still light lube around the outside surface of the cup seal.

Hmm. Have you tested the seal between the cylinder head and barrel assembly?

What bbs are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmm. Have you tested the seal between the cylinder head and barrel assembly?

What bbs are you using?
Only the seal on the bolt . Looking on ways to further check for leaks past bolt. If unsuccessful, may ask for direction.

Valken Accelerate, they have been consistent for my m4 platforms, but may not be the best for sniper?

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So, thought there would be more voodoo to it.....

No leaks at nozzle/hop area using a 5, 10, and 15 sec hold on end.

Open to add'l avenues.

On the hunt of a used short barrel/inner to see the differences. Not that the website does not have reasonable prices, but just slows me down a bit.....

BroHay
 

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How long is your inner barrel? If it's more than around 300mm, ditch that heavy weight on the wasp. Try going as light as possible on the piston and see what happens. You already seemed to gain fps by going to the medium weight, try to go lighter now.

The heavy piston weights are for very short (<300mm) inner barrels and very heavy (<0.45g) bb weights. Otherwise you aren't volumed correctly and you'll be losing a lot of energy to that ineffeciency.
 

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Hmm I don't remember who makes valken accelerate. Though I would grab bls bbs. Heavyweight BBs (0.36g+) — Infantryshop USA

Valken is the fucking devil. I am not getting into it. Don't ask, stems from when I played paintball.

Anyway, I would also check to make sure your bucking is super clean and doesn't have any oil or grease on it. A little oil will play havoc with numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
How long is your inner barrel? If it's more than around 300mm, ditch that heavy weight on the wasp. Try going as light as possible on the piston and see what happens. You already seemed to gain fps by going to the medium weight, try to go lighter now.

The heavy piston weights are for very short
I found a short inner stock barrel on Hopup so I'll be able to start seeing what happens on that front.

The heavy/med combo has yielded me my best result with what I have available to me. (.36/.43)

I'll crunch more rounds this evening with my setup and no name m180 since it maybe more broken in (around 500 rounds and see what medium/light cylinder will do)

Cheers,
BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Also, looking at Blind Snipers tutorial for removing some of the slop out of the bolt.

Starts with poly, upgrades to Carbon Fiber . Anyone have anything to add other than what the video shows?

BroHay
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Here is a general quesrion to the long time members, even though this is a primarily a sniper forum.

This SMR rail was purchased after a friend was trying to make it work, but gave up. I ended up filing the barrel nut that came with the upper down to make it fit so its no longer a chore to remove.

Guess it is after a Geissele design, but nothing I have tried seems to be the correct spacing

I have been on the hunt for additional pic rail sections to attach accessories and nothing to date has worked.

I have not seen any drawings to allow me to compare designs , and don't have 3d printer (or found someone with one) from the field.

The bolt spacing, center to center is 50mm and outside edge is 56mm while inside is 44mm.

Anyone in their vast achieve of info able to recognize what is pictured or offer 3d printing (for a fee?)

Cheers,
BroHay


No difference in 3 pics, just not familiar with the img function in Tapatalk vs tag and source from a third party .....it's been awhile since used forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
so, instead of bouncing around all over the place......

I have an MP7 GBB. I currently has a 'low power bolt' with a RA NPAS valve. The MP7 came with spare bits, almot enough to build a stock configured bolt with an Angel Customs reduction FPS valve. Thing is, I am short the 4 screws on the bolt that hold the feeder (Part 35--click here) and wondering where you guys go for misc screws when suppliers are all but 'OUT OF STOCK'?

These are tinier than what I am use to getting, and metric to boot -- did not know if any of the big box stores speciality fastners have filled the needs for others when screws are missing?

I did find one place, rainbow8, mainland, but they not only wanter 7 bucks/screw, shipping was equally bad.....

Cheers,
BroHay
 
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