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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(I speak french, please excuse my spelling and syntax)
Hello to all of you guys,

Today I am starting my very first build thread. This is going to be on a very common rifle, the jg bar-10 gspec (clone of the TM vsr-10 gspec). The reason why I am writing this is pretty simple: I want to show others what they should expect when building this particular rifle! I will not go into all the details here, I'll just point out the highlights of my experience with the gun (feel free to ask questions if you think something isn't clear)

Gspec vs pro: The bolt handle and barrel lenght is the only thing to consider here... Get the one you prefer the looks of. The pro might be a better investment if you try to do a cheap build just because it has a longer barrel, which means more air from the cylinder is used to push the bb out (more fps out of the box, heaier bbs out of the box. heavier bbs = more range, you get my point)

First off, the stock gun.

Impressions:
When I recieved it, I foud it to be quite toy-ish. It is very lightweight, which is a nice thing to have, but the stock has this toy like finish to it. It might be just me though. I got two mags to go with it, they are like the rifle, light and very toy-ish unlike the l96 mags which are more on the heavy side. They can fit into a pistol mag pouch though which is pretty useful. I dry fired a couple of times and I found the trigger to stick quite a bit... I had to fiddle with the bolt handle for 30 seconds each time to get the damn thing to shoot. I wanted to know what was up, so I opened this bad boy.

Internals:
Easy to disassemble, the two screws that hold the reciever to the stock are easy to spot unlike on my type 96. One thing I have to say is that trying to get the cylinder out was hard because the damn spring guide stopper is quite a pain to get off, I had to use a hammer and gently slam it down with a screwdriver. The trigger is all metal, I would like to think this could hold up for quite some time but I read the contrary on the forums, I guess I'll find out if it breaks. The sticking issue was resolved just by disassembling the gun and cleaning it. The next thing I realized was that there was lube everywhere. The hop up had to be cleaned, the barrel was literally full of junk, I have never seen such a dirty barrel in my whole life. The cylinder wasn't as bad, but I cleaned it anyways and replaced the lube with some Mitch's armory silicon grease (love that stuff). The bolt handle had no lube at all, so I got just a dab in there to help with a smoother action. I reassembled the thing to get an idea of stock performance before doing some DIYs.

Now onto stock performance:
I shot with .36g madbull whites (washed) at a 100 foot distance, no wind on a 1foot by 1foot target. I got 10/10 shots at that range with my bipod, and 9/10 standing up. The right curve started to appear right after that. The gspec is surprisingly accurate at short range. Don't expect to shoot farter that 150 feet with it stock, the right curve is way too strong past that. I might have used bbs that were too heavy for the stock fps though, so results may vary here.

DIY mods:
I re-opened the the thing and went for some DIY mods. First thing, R-HOP. Got some aquarium tubing ( Clear Silicone Tubing Hose Pipe Pond Aquarium Fish Tank AIR Pump FDA Marine Tube | eBay ) in the 6mm id 9mm od and cut it with a razor blade to make a patch. This is very annoying because it is very difficult to get a clean cut with rubber, so arm yourself with patience if you try to do this. I then sanded it using some fine grit sandpaper. Then, I cut the outside and inside ridges as well as the mound on the bucking with that same razor blade. I smoothened that out with some sandpaper after that. I then rotated the bucking so that the rhop patch makes contact with an untouched part of the rubber. I sanded off the hop up arm's nub and glued my mnub (made out of the type 96's barrel spacer foam, nerf dart foam work good too) . I used some aluminum paper and glued it to each side of the arm to shim it. Finally, some teflon and dental floss were used to seal this bad boy up. For the cylinder, I put the cylinder head on a drill and spun it while rubbing it with some sandpaper and added water for a smoother finish (thanks to SniperPT, 1tonne and Lirimacora for this). I then glued some 70D sorbothane for noise reduction. I cut the airbrake and teflon taped the cylinder head. I also did the ejection port cover mod with a beer can which I cut, very easy mod. Pretty much all I did. I will add that if you plan on keeping the stock barrel for a while, you should make some barrel spacers with tape for added consistency. Remember, reassemble everything properly, take your time, things will work.

After DIY report:
I went to a local game with the thing to chrono it. With.2g bbs, I was shooting 365 fps +-. The stock piston gave me very good airseal and I must say that an upgrade for that is almost not necessary, and if you get a new trigger you can always mod it for 90 degrees. I played with my type 96 all day long, but on the last skirmish I decided to bring the vsr for a quick test. I shot a guy at about 200 feet (maybe more) in one shot. I got two kills that round (we were 20 and it lasted about 10 minutes). I was quite impressed. I'd say my range was about 220-250 feet, but the right curve issue is still there. The bolt pull was kind of sloppy because the cylinder was not lubed on the outside. I'll work on that soon.

PS: I have a video of me shooting that guy in one shot if you guys are interested, but its only from my first person view so the guy is tiny (shot on gopro)ill post it if you guys want to see it :p

To conclude on the non upgraded bar-10:
So to summarize, the JG-bar-10 can be a good beginner gun, if you like to tinker. I know that this has been said enough times but BASR's require lots of work, but I think its worth it. Light, compact (gspec), easy to upgrade and very nice style (IMO), that gun is perfect (almost) to my taste. My effective range went up 75-100 feet only with 2-3 hours of work (does not inclue the time I spend figuring the gun out lol) and 30$ for the teflon, sorbo, glue, tubing for the rhop and razor blades (I live in canada, sh*t is expensive here). Keep in mind I have no aftermarket parts, I played with an unglued r-hop patch and this was my first r-hop install. I didn't even disassemble the rifle to resand the patch after that. If you are not comfortable with r-hop, I suggest you try out a nineball purple or PDI bucking, but r-hop is way easier than I thought i was. The gun's only NECESSARY upgrade right off the would be a new hop up chamber to get rid of the right curve issue.

Costs :
Gun: $199 CAD
Scope: $50 CAD
Bipod: $45 CAD
Tubing: $14 CAD
Tools: $15 CAD
TOTAL: $323 CAD (you guys in the US will pay less lol)

This concludes the non upgraded bar-10 gspec part of this ''what should you expect?'' thread. I will update you guys soon on with the upgraded bar-10 since I just ordered the parts. If you have any questions regarding the mods, build, or if you have problems, just post them here or send me a PM and I'll try to help. Keep in mind, I did not discover these mods by myself, this forum is a huge database of info on airsoft sniping and I recommend you read every sticky you can find if you haven't already.

Pictures will be added if someone requests, I don't have access to my rifle atm :hehe:
 

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Sounds good! Are you considering any aftermarket parts? The right hand curve should be solve-able by re-aligning the bucking or modifying your nub a little, although that takes some time tuning and tinkering :hehe:
 

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Looks good so far. :) Nicely done!

One tip though, to extend the lifetime of your stopper pin and all parts affected when you hammer it out. Simply unscrew the outer barrel, and open up the cylinder, while it is still inside of the receiver. That way you get rid of the pressure from the spring and the stopper pin will quite easily slide out.

I always do it this way, it does suck if you just want to open up the trigger or something since you might have to seal the cylinder head again afterwards, but in my opinion it is worth the trouble.

It will look like this.


Sincerely,
Ludde
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your tip ludde, will definately try that out next time I open it up!

Reliku I already have ordered some parts like I said earlier, but I ordered them this morning so I'll have to wait a bit hahaha. I think the right curve is mainly due to the hop up system, as I have not done the TDC mod. The rhop patch may be a little off like you said though haha :p

I got an AA 430mm barrel, AA chamber, nineball bucking Action Army piston and Action trigger as well as a new m150 spring to power up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So back at it after a while. I think I named this thread the wrong way lol. Anyways recieved the package two weeks ago.

Parts (price listed in CAD):
Action Army 90 degree piston (the blue one) : 43$
Action Army VSR m150 spring (brings me up to 515-520 fps with near perfect seal): 19$
Action Army VSR Hop Up Chamber : 80$
Action Army 6.03 stainless steel barrel (430mm) : 40$ ----- Thats cheap lol
ACTION Zero trigger : 75$
Nineball purple bucking for VSR: 10$

TOTAL: +- 300$ with shipping and tax

So after I assembled everything I went to test the gun and the mag had some feeding issues. I disassembled everything, and after some tinkering and some research, I found out it had something to do with the BB stoppers and the mag spring. I ordered a TM 30 round mag, hopefully this fixes my problem.

As I wrote earlier, I have a nineball purple bucking. I saw a post on here saying that I have to use an H nub in cunjunction with it. What nub are you guys using? I'd prefer on sticking with the bucking and not shaving anything on it for now, I may buy something else (maple or pdi w hold) later on for testing purposes.

I appreciate your help guys, I'll add pictures of the gun before and after with videos if I manage on getting a scope cam. Paintjob when everything is the way I want it to!
 

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Id highly recommend the maple leaf bucking. The PDI W hold is an option too but it wears down in no time. The maple leaf is essentially a drop in R-hop, there really arent any buckings that can match its performance :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I see... Isnt it a bit shorter than other buckings? Also what hardness? My shop has the 75 monster hop up bucking in stock.
 

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I use 70 degree monster buckings with great success. They're a little shorter, but with some teflon tape you can get the airseal back to 100% with relative ease (my airseal is 100% with the maple leaf and some teflon tape).

Be sure to get the concave nub with it though, or it won't work! But if you have that bucking + nub then there's pretty much nothing except for an actual R-hop that can match its performance :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I added the maple leaf monster 75 degree and nub combo to my rifle which I wrapped in a bit of teflon tape. I had to tilt my gun slightly so the left to make it shoot straigt, but I adjusted the scope and its fine now. With .43g bbs, this thing shoots past 300 feet for sure, 300 being an effective range. Apart from feeding issues (my major complaint since I got the AA chamber with those god damn bb stoppers) the vsr proved to be superior to the type 96 as far as performance goes due to the buckings. Consistency is outstanding, im often taking only 1 shot to hit an enemy at long ranges, no curving whatsoever. I'm looking forward to play with my bar 10 next spring, as my field closed down for winter... :( .

Anyways, the maple leaf is where its at, just make sur to get the concave nub and put some teflon tape around the bucking's end to get a good airseal as this bucking is shorter than a standard vsr bucking.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I dont think the other players liked it though... they told me my rifle was '"overpowered". Seems fine to me though ;)
 
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