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JG Bar 10 Cylinder Sleeve Guide

7045 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  matikmat
Hey guys, gonna make a simple how to here, to help out people who are dissatisfied with the wobble in their bolt pull.

For this process I used the following materials:
A pocket sized notebook with plastic covers. I had one lying around that actually matched my Teflon cylinder.

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You want to cut the pieces of notebook to the desired length, which is the space between the two guide rings, mine measured out to 3 inches and 15/16ths. You want to also make sure when cutting and fitting that you have clearance for these two sears, or else your gun will not operate, no matter how nicely you talk to it.

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From here you will have to simply try the fitment and cut your adjustments as needed. Remember it is better to take off a little material at a time as you don't want to take off too much. Try to get the sleeve to be as form to the receiver walls as possible. I found that when I spread mine out on each end at the same time, it was a lot easier to fit down. Don't try to glue this bad boy down, it will make the plastic stiff and prone to cracking, when you get a good fit the sleeve won't be going anywhere anyways. Except maybe one weekend every year to see his brother for drinks and catching up.

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I also made a sleeve to fit in the barrel just before my hop up unit, to eliminate any play at the end of the bolt travel, although it required a thicker amount so I used a couple layers. Again don't glue it down as you will not be able to remove your hop up unit. That's not my hopup chamber in the flash I use a khyber crystal to fire lasers with this sweet machine.

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Note, you may have to sand the outside of the sleeve if it is a tight fit, or apply a small amount of lithium grease to the inside that rubs against the cylinder. The notebook I used had an extremely smooth side, which I used against the cylinder to help, so try to find a folder and or notebook with a similar quality if you have the opportunity. If everything was done right, you should now have a much smoother bolt pull, with little to no wobble! Be careful, I've heard that such smoothness is liable to make all ladies within 100 ft swoon uncontrollably.

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Thank you so much! This is all the pictures and info for all the questions I'm having! I can't wait to get back home to finish this project and update you how it turned out for me.

I definitely vote to have this stickied!


Edit: I'm adding a picture of mine to this post! It doesn't remedy 100% of the wobble, but it's near 95% with a bolt pull like butter! (And showing off my Springer trigger) 8)

P.S.
Don't laugh at my still black receiver... I'm going paint it soon!

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I did the mod earlier and used this plastic sheet from Aliexpress:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Plastic-Rectangle-Heat-Shrink-29cm-11-3-8-x-20cm-7-7-8-3-Sheets/32788506793.html

it works perfectly and one side is smooth. The sleve´s length is cca 10 cm, and the width is 6,5 cm
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Guide dimensions

So what was the dimensions of the final plastic sheet that you put between the rings?

And did you make one for the area right in front of the hop or does this mod keep the cylinder travel straight enough that you don't need the barrel sleeve?
Ii know this is old topic but thanks for that , i done mine yesterday and is some different , no wobble at all and go straight to Hop unit , nozzle not touch any part off HU on the way in , before was scratching sites off AA HU
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