Just got it. Stay tuned for impressions and tuning.
Overall first impressions right out of the box. not as heavy as I was expecting, still on the hefty side as 90% of the rifle is metal. Originally I was not thrilled with the CAA stock on it, but that one in particular is not all that bad. I do like it over all. I think the grip needs to be changed out, my hands were slipping all over the place.
I do have the 500 fps model. So keep that in mind. Bolt is indeed the king arms PCS bolt. You can adjust the output some.
585mm 6.05 barrel, its actually a decent barrel. I ran a patch down it and it was not full of gunk. Matter of fact it came out clean. Inside the barrel has a pretty decent finish too. And its straight.
Tanaka M700 based. The big plus is the VSR/GBB bucking compatibility. Has their standard red bucking in it, nothing fancy. I plan to replace it with a modify x-range. hop up adjustment range is pretty small. but at least its quite friendly for fine tuning.
Chrono: with .40g BLS on Green Gas (just happens to be King Arms brand, *(not sponsored! wish it was then I would not be as poor))
After the 5th shot I stopped as that is over the field limit.
Accuracy wise, it shot pretty straight. Hop up does not like the heavy bbs, but that is an easy fix. Honestly pretty skirmishable. Even if you have the lower power bolt it will creep a bit, but I still think the accuracy will be the same. Which for a stock gun its quite good.
Its loud and you are going to have to make something to make it work as it does not look like it has threads anywhere to add a can.
Its got a case of the barrel weeble-wobbles. not so much left to right, but up and down it does. Like 2-3mm wobble at the tip. I think this can be adjusted, Ill post up once I tear it down. (Update: Yes, it is fixed with a little extra gronk.)
Gas Consumption... yeah, i barely get through the full mag before the gas start to dip. I think its due to the bolt, but we shall see. I may rig up a CO2 system or something later down the road.
So far, I feel like this is a far better built rifle then the KJW, and performs better as well. Just add a scope, adjust the hop, and you have a very capable rifle without much work. (This can easily change once I break the rifle in. but I do not think it will change much.)
I am going to go lie down for a bit. Fuck 100f+ heat. I cooked for this review... if you guys want detailed disassembly guide I can do that. Questions? Fire away! Ill try to answer the best i can.
DISASSEMBLING THE TWS:
You will need the following tools:
Metric hex key sizes: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5
2.5mm punch or hardened rod
Jewler's torch or a high power heat gun with a precision nozzle
Flat head screwdriver that is suitable to be hit with a hammer
Heat resistant gloves.
Step 1: removal of all accessories that block screw holes and bolt. (Scope for sure)
Bolt removal button is located in front of the trigger.
Step 2: removal of rail and body
Pull body away from receiver. WARNING: PINS THAT HOLD HOPUP UNIT CAN BE LOOSE AND MAY EASILY FALL OUT. DO NOT LOOSE!
(More in next post, maxed the amount for this one.)
Here is where it gets a little difficult and most of the tools are needed.
Remove the the hopup knob.
Remove body pins.
Slide hopup unit back. (Screw driver may be needed)
Now the suck. I did not get pictures of this as I needed both my hands.
You see that castle nut looking thing holding the outer barrel on? Good, now hate it. Its glued into the outer barrel and needs to be unscrewed to remove the hopup unit and outer barrel. Heat will help you greatly here, but its not a requirement. You have to use a vise to clamp either the outer barrel or the receiver. MAKE SURE YOU USE SOFT JAWS OR RUBBER TO PROTECT THE PARTS, AND ONLY USE ENOUGH FORCE TO HOLD IT!
Take your punch or rod and insert it into the hole in the nut. Use the flat screwdriver at the connecting base of the pin and nut, and hit with the hammer to force the nut to turn. (You can see the marks on mine from when I did it on the above photo.) You will need to do this a few times as they put quite a bit of glue on. Once free, clean off the dry glue with a wire brush or wire wheel. You should not have to do this extreme process again. Should be easy with just the rod or whatever.
Now back to easy street.
Loosen the grub screw in this hole to remove the hopup.
If you remove the inner barrel, you will see that the barrel has 3 orings on it. This makes it fit snug in the outer barrel. Very nice touch.
BUCKING CCOMPATIBILITY WITH STOCK BARREL:
I do not have a ton of buckings, I can say the following though.
Standard buckings, work.
X-range, barrel damages bucking and deforms patch due to barrel window depth.
ML buckings, practically perfect fit.