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King Arms TWS Gas Bolt Action (M700)

2836 Views 22 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Doctor Jest
Just got it. Stay tuned for impressions and tuning.
Luggage and bags Bag Gas Tints and shades Automotive exterior

Overall first impressions right out of the box. not as heavy as I was expecting, still on the hefty side as 90% of the rifle is metal. Originally I was not thrilled with the CAA stock on it, but that one in particular is not all that bad. I do like it over all. I think the grip needs to be changed out, my hands were slipping all over the place.

I do have the 500 fps model. So keep that in mind. Bolt is indeed the king arms PCS bolt. You can adjust the output some.

585mm 6.05 barrel, its actually a decent barrel. I ran a patch down it and it was not full of gunk. Matter of fact it came out clean. Inside the barrel has a pretty decent finish too. And its straight.

Tanaka M700 based. The big plus is the VSR/GBB bucking compatibility. Has their standard red bucking in it, nothing fancy. I plan to replace it with a modify x-range. hop up adjustment range is pretty small. but at least its quite friendly for fine tuning.

Chrono: with .40g BLS on Green Gas (just happens to be King Arms brand, *(not sponsored! wish it was then I would not be as poor))
1: 1.26J
2: 2.63J
3: 3.62J
4: 3.71J
5: 4.13J

After the 5th shot I stopped as that is over the field limit.

Accuracy wise, it shot pretty straight. Hop up does not like the heavy bbs, but that is an easy fix. Honestly pretty skirmishable. Even if you have the lower power bolt it will creep a bit, but I still think the accuracy will be the same. Which for a stock gun its quite good.

Its loud and you are going to have to make something to make it work as it does not look like it has threads anywhere to add a can.

Its got a case of the barrel weeble-wobbles. not so much left to right, but up and down it does. Like 2-3mm wobble at the tip. I think this can be adjusted, Ill post up once I tear it down. (Update: Yes, it is fixed with a little extra gronk.)

Gas Consumption... yeah, i barely get through the full mag before the gas start to dip. I think its due to the bolt, but we shall see. I may rig up a CO2 system or something later down the road.

So far, I feel like this is a far better built rifle then the KJW, and performs better as well. Just add a scope, adjust the hop, and you have a very capable rifle without much work. (This can easily change once I break the rifle in. but I do not think it will change much.)

I am going to go lie down for a bit. Fuck 100f+ heat. I cooked for this review... if you guys want detailed disassembly guide I can do that. Questions? Fire away! Ill try to answer the best i can.


You will need the following tools:
Metric hex key sizes: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5
2.5mm punch or hardened rod
Jewler's torch or a high power heat gun with a precision nozzle
Flat head screwdriver that is suitable to be hit with a hammer
A vise
Heat resistant gloves.

Step 1: removal of all accessories that block screw holes and bolt. (Scope for sure)
Bolt removal button is located in front of the trigger.
Camouflage Military camouflage Camera accessory Automotive tire Carbon

Step 2: removal of rail and body
Hand Bicycle frame Tire Bicycle tire Bicycle fork

Gesture Finger Gadget Bumper Camera accessory

Gas Automotive tire Bumper Shelf Machine

Hand Automotive tire Tire Wood Audio equipment

Bumper Musical instrument accessory Automotive exterior Gadget Trigger

Wood Bicycle fork Bicycle part Machine Engineering
Air gun Shotgun Trigger Bumper Gun barrel

Hand Trigger Gesture Air gun Finger

(More in next post, maxed the amount for this one.)

Here is where it gets a little difficult and most of the tools are needed.

Remove the the hopup knob.
Sleeve Wood Bumper Gas Musical instrument accessory

Remove body pins.
Sleeve Bumper Tints and shades Wood Denim

Slide hopup unit back. (Screw driver may be needed)

Now the suck. I did not get pictures of this as I needed both my hands.
You see that castle nut looking thing holding the outer barrel on? Good, now hate it. Its glued into the outer barrel and needs to be unscrewed to remove the hopup unit and outer barrel. Heat will help you greatly here, but its not a requirement. You have to use a vise to clamp either the outer barrel or the receiver. MAKE SURE YOU USE SOFT JAWS OR RUBBER TO PROTECT THE PARTS, AND ONLY USE ENOUGH FORCE TO HOLD IT!
Take your punch or rod and insert it into the hole in the nut. Use the flat screwdriver at the connecting base of the pin and nut, and hit with the hammer to force the nut to turn. (You can see the marks on mine from when I did it on the above photo.) You will need to do this a few times as they put quite a bit of glue on. Once free, clean off the dry glue with a wire brush or wire wheel. You should not have to do this extreme process again. Should be easy with just the rod or whatever.

Now back to easy street.
Hand Cap Bag Hat Helmet

Loosen the grub screw in this hole to remove the hopup.
Sleeve Helmet Bag Luggage and bags Gadget

Sleeve Cameras & optics Gadget Gas Cable

(Part 3)

Hand Wood Textile Art Eyewear

If you remove the inner barrel, you will see that the barrel has 3 orings on it. This makes it fit snug in the outer barrel. Very nice touch.


I do not have a ton of buckings, I can say the following though.

Standard buckings, work.
X-range, barrel damages bucking and deforms patch due to barrel window depth.
ML buckings, practically perfect fit.


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I was waiting for someone to review this bad boy since i can't find any online. Glad finally someone here bought it ! Gonna wait for your review!!
This based on the Tanaka system right?
What hop up does it has?

Detailed disassembly? of course please do!! Also could you do compatibily test with KJW? Going for this one has been in my mind for longer than anything but always stuck on how hard it is to get access to spares.
I don't have a KJW. A local had one that I worked on a bit. I am mostly going off memory. Odds are the spares will work fine. *Depends on the part, if its a common wear part then you are probably good.

I already have it ripped apart, forgot to take pics. but I will take pics as I reassemble. Its quite easy. This has been one of the best guns I have worked on. With one notable exception. Ill cover that when I post the assembly.
Main post updated with tear down and additional info.
Looks slick. So the only real inconvenience is when we need to access the hop unit i see. Thanks for reviewing this gun alongside the tear down!
Chrono: with .40g BLS on Green Gas (just happens to be King Arms brand, *(not sponsored! wish it was then I would not be as poor))
1: 1.26J
2: 2.63J
3: 3.62J
4: 3.71J
5: 4.13J
Some truly epic consistency right here. Hope this is just the rifle breaking in.
Also hope that some sort of NPAS is possible.
I have an Action Army AAC21 coming, same idea. Difference is, I'm HPA tapped right off the bat, which is what you'll probably want to do. Also have an AA M700 chamber and decepticons bucking.
Some truly epic consistency right here. Hope this is just the rifle breaking in.
Also hope that some sort of NPAS is possible.
NPAS would not work in this system, well at least in the way you are familiar with. Its probably just breaking in, the last gas rifle I owned was +/-10 fps. I probably could design an NPAS for it if I was hell bent to do so, but I think that is more last 2% chasing then anything.

I have an Action Army AAC21 coming, same idea. Difference is, I'm HPA tapped right off the bat, which is what you'll probably want to do. Also have an AA M700 chamber and decepticons bucking.
Bleh, i really do not want to mess with HPA on this one. I am pretty confident in my teching skills that I can get this to a solid state without the need of the "HPA Easy Button"
Suit yourself. The only gas rifle I've heard of with any sort of true consistency is the VFC M40A5. Still want to get my hands on one.
Tbh.. My Tanaka M24 has better consistency compared to my VFC M40A5 ..!

So, I have been messing with this over the weekend. I ripped my bolt apart, (did not take any pics, but it's pretty simple) and took some measurements for the main drive spring in the bolt.

Drive Spring: (inch, metric)
L: 2.30 I, 59.5mm
OD: 0.30 I, 8.6mm
ID: .224 I, 5.7mm
Wire Diam: 0.038 I, 0.98~1mm (it fluctuated a little depending on where I measured, but it's within the margin of error for my calipers which have 0.02mm.)
Load: I'm guessing its 8 or 9 lbs. It's a hard spring. Dunno how to test it.

Though looking online at similar springs, it's about that range.

I am ordering a few different springs to test out. May make different size spring guides that vary in length to test different load strengths to really fine tune it.
been a bit, work has been crazy. ordered a whole mountain of parts for this. Once they show up, I will let you all know what i ordered if it works.
the police model "standard" just went on sale on Evike. Really split between that or grabbing a used VFC M40A5 that's been HPA tapped on 3 mags for $500

edit: just realized the evike coupon applies and is cheaper than the sale anyways.
Of the buckings you tried, what was your favorite? I have a AAC21 that I recently picked up to make a backyard plinker out of. Put a ML crazy jet 500mm with a ML MR.Hop silicone. It seals really good and it's consistent when holding the rifle level, but I get odd behavior with pointing the rifle up or down causing more or less hop. I'm wondering if the hop up nub (default is a horizontal plastic bar with TDC adjustment) has something to do with this. There's a concave nub that action army makes for this specific platform, I'm wondering if it would be worth a try or if I just should drop in a different bucking.

Edit: Seems to be bedding in a little bit better after a few hundred rounds fired. We'll see if this holds out...
Eh I am still using the ML bucking, its a macron, not one of the new silicone ones. The stock nub in the rifle is pretty small. I modified mine with a piece of brass I cut from a tube to make a bigger contact area.

I have yet to test it as I have been extremely busy.
Well I have gotten time to test the rifle and the mountain of different springs... and not a damn one worked.... which leads me to believe the striker springs are "special" springs. (Non standard mass made) which makes me mad.

However I still got the power to drop by adding one of these. FALCON Intake Air Rubber Breech Bolt - for Tanaka M700 / M40 / M24 / L96 & KJ M700 & G&G G96 / G980 | WGC Shop

Its a 3 pack, I used the green one. Think I may take the black one and bore it out and adjust the output to shoot right at the limit I have for bolt actions.
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Man, I had no idea you owned one. A friend of mine has 9 Tanaka M700s (preban) and won't part with one so I've been looking everywhere for an equivalent. Watching, with interest.
I like the rifle. I also have a PPS Kar98K version 2, and a Tanaka kar98k somewhere. This one in particular is pretty good.
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