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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey my name is Daniel, im from Norway and im new to this site. I am also abit new to airsoft, been watching some great videos on utube and played abit with my friends, and now i want to get my first sniper rifle. I am a constructionmachine mechanic, i work 5-6 days a week and got nothing to do on a sunday, so i figured i should start doing airsoft. I need help on which sniper rifle to get and what the first thing i need to upgrade and change etc...

I have been watched/read alot of reviews on different rifles, at the end ive come up with a few snipers to choose from:
KJW m700, Tokyo Marui vsr-10 or JG vsr-10. Out of all of them, interm of looks i like the m700 the most, iknow it has nothing to do with performance. Now i want a rifle that i can stick to for a long time without needing to change to a different rifle, instead just mod and upgrade it better. I want a rifle i can mod to the best performance a little bit at a time, not needing to change every parts straight away, but step by step changing parts.

Here in Norway i can use up to 630-700 fps, but i have to stay further away than other players, minimum 25-30m away from target. Im writing this on a phone and my english is not so good, so excuse my typos. Hope you can help me out here, thanks
 

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Don't get a kjw as your first gun. They're fun once you know your way around an hpa regulator.

Get a vsr.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Both have their pros and cons. TO get a feel of what upgrades look like, check out the guide I wrote for the M700 (linked in my signature) and 1Tonne's VSR-10 guide:
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/4...-building-guide.html?highlight=advanced+guide

I would recommend the JG Bar-10 or TM VSR-10 as your first sniper rifle
Thank you for ur answer, im reading now the m700 guide(not finnished), and it says:" Green gas is very effected by the cold. With this type of power source, expect to see shots that are inconsistent in range and accuracy, in other words, not good for a sniper rifle!" I live in norway and its very cold here, so its not a good choice to get the m700?
 

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Not unless you covert it to HPA or c02 immediately. I prefer the m700, buts it's surly not a first gun. Also you should make an intro post ;)
 
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DISCLAIMER: IM JUST AS NEW AS YOU SO READ IN YOUR OWN RISK:

There are MANY variables that need to be addressed before even attempting to answer your question:

1. What FPS limit does the fields in Norway have, according to Wiki and other places there are no FPS limit in the COUNTRY but your fields could have something different or are you planning on doing private sessions with your friends in the woods?
-If your fields have low fps limit you might do good with the TM VSR since its hop up is regarded as one of the best and you might end up upgrading LESS than with the others.

2. What do you plan to/are you achieve with your replica?
Do you want an absolute top notch machine? Do you have the money and time to invest in it? Are there any kinds of limitations regarding importing to your country? Do you want to do it right away or are you planning on taking your time getting to know your replica?
Maybe an HPA righ on your KJW is for you if you have the money, time and have the money to be able to sustain any mistakes that result in poor experience when modding the kjw m700 (just in case anything goes wrong or you end up not liking it).

3. Are you alone in this? Do you have experienced friends in airsoft with you?
Modding the KJW might need some tools and knowledge that MIGHT not be available for everyone, modding VSR USUALLY doesnt requires much than most already have specially when fitting aftermarket parts appropiate for your platform (to which case i would go JG VSR 10 G-spec -- the Pro version has the handle in an awkward way that SOME report interfering with the socpe when reloading).

4. Are you comfortable with DIY/modding the gun yourself? Do you have professionals available in your area? Same as above.

If you plan to take your time in order to have a final product that is absolute top notch i would recommend going the VSR route not with the Marui but with the JG VSR 10, that will allow you FIRST: to get to know the role of the sniper. That way you will be able to figure out what you want in a more precise way, maybe youll end up selling it and going KJW m700 or AEG hehe.

Read this if you havent:
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/37-concealment/1053-being-hunter.html
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/37-concealment/1478-making-ghillie-suit.html
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/37-concealment/1234-ghillie-making-tutorial-finished.html
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/2411-how-make-airsoft-sniper.html
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/2046-art-target-selection-updated.html
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/11456-spotters-guide.html
Airsoft sniper starter guide ? Airsoft Skirms
Airsoft Sniping 101 (Tips to Make You a Better Sniper) | Airsofter United
IPS Driver Error

Why do i think its better to get to know the role with a VSR than a m700? Because while both are reliable, the VSR is cheaper (the JG one) and if you dont like it it has good resale value, you wont lose much if you go with that, and even if you LIKE playing sniper you might be able to sell it with little loss and get an kjw m700 if you want to.

IF you plan to go VSR be prepared to upgrade the barrel, hop up, most or whole cylinder set (piston, spring, spring guide, cylinder head and maybe the cylinder body as well as PART or the WHOLE trigger).

Many do not agree in a set upgrade priority ORDER, if you want to start with ACCURACY (and a bit of range)you might want to try starting with the barrel and the hop up then work your way to reinforcing the trigger then the cylinder, also dont forget the DIY mods such as Teflon mod, barrel spacers mods (in case you dont want to just use aftermarket), TDC mod, 1tonne has a great guide for LRB mod, mods for silencing your stock (foam or putty), etc etc...

As far as i understand, remember im a bit new and all this im saying is from months of research and study, I MIGHT BE WRONG, the GAS rifles need more maintenance, and... APPARENTLY only HPA can live up to the RELIABILITY of springs, other gases change performance based on temperature, HPA is highly pressurised air and well, air is just air.

Good brands for upgrading VSR are Laylax (First Factory rebrand of Laylax???), PDI, EdGI, Action Army (HOP UP and maybe trigger?), theres a forum member in here that makes Triggers that reportedly have great quality called the S- Trigger, please note that some of these parts are not meant to mix together, Laylax and PDI dont like each other much hehe. Avoid Angel Customs like the plague.
Good asian store is Tokyo Model Company, some people dont talk good of other asian companies, do research.

Nice links for VSR:

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/6075-advanced-vsr-sniper-building-guide.html
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/10635-ultimate-guide-your-vsr-10-a.html
bud288 posted: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/topic/59742-vsr-10-upgrade-guide/
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/4...nfinland-s-vsr-10-total-take-apart-guide.html

Also: YOUTUBE!

Hope i didnt made any nasty mistakes hehe, good luck and sorry if i provided untrue info, im still learning myself.
 

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If you are new to airsoft in general I highly recommend you consider getting an AEG to start. Spring and gas bolt-action rifles have very few advantages compared with an AEG and it generally takes an experienced player to really take advantage of them.

Simply put: a new player with a stock rifle will not be having very much fun or contribute much to the success of their team.

I've been playing airsoft for +8 years. This was the first year I've picked-up a bolt gun and it's been a very steep learning curve. It would not have been a fun way to start the sport.

-Grant
 

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Fyi, anything more than 550 fps with 0,2 grams or 2,8 joules is against the rules of this forum. Unless it's got specific use for backyard plinking (I think you mentioned gaming use).

Btw, if you read through the forum, you'll find other members doing 400 fps with 0,2 grams shooting heavy weight bbs (0,36 grams+) doing more than 80+ meter shots (I'm still trying to achieve this). Albeit, takes longer to reach the target and higher possibility of hits not being called.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Fyi, anything more than 550 fps with 0,2 grams or 2,8 joules is against the rules of this forum. Unless it's got specific use for backyard plinking (I think you mentioned gaming use).

Btw, if you read through the forum, you'll find other members doing 400 fps with 0,2 grams shooting heavy weight bbs (0,36 grams+) doing more than 80+ meter shots (I'm still trying to achieve this). Albeit, takes longer to reach the target and higher possibility of hits not being called.
Not saying im gona use 600-700 fps, Cuervo was asking how the rules are here, whats the fps limit u can use.'
 

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Ah, sorry for that. :)

Personally I prefer going spring (JG Bar 10) because of the hassle of prepping rifle for HPA use. Aside from tapping all the mags, whenever you want to change mags, you have to remove and reinstall the line going from tank to mag. Also, my field only provide compressed CO2 for paintball use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ah, sorry for that. :)

Personally I prefer going spring (JG Bar 10) because of the hassle of prepping rifle for HPA use. Aside from tapping all the mags, whenever you want to change mags, you have to remove and reinstall the line going from tank to mag. Also, my field only provide compressed CO2 for paintball use.
No worries mate, thank u for ur answer :)
 

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It's pretty easy, especially if you use the 29 rd mag, you shouldn't have to reload a single time in a standard game.
 
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Mag changing on a HPA rifle really depends on what fittings you used and what hose. Overall, no it is not that hard.
 
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If you use self sealing fittings and a on/off valve at the nipple to the magazine you will minimize the noise and maximize your air use as you will not be dumping the air out of the magazine when you disconnect.

You will need to open and close the on/off on your own, which can be a little tedious and can be closed while crawling by who knows what.
 
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