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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been working on this gun for a while and wanted to share it with you all.

Gun: KJW M700P
Scope: Matrix 3-12x50 Illuminated Reticle Sniper Scope

Internal upgrades:
King Arms Air Seal Chamber
G&G Rubber Air Seal Set
CNC Chamber Conversion Kit
EdGI 6.01mm Precision Tight Bore Inner Bull Barrel
G&G Steel Cocking Piece
Palmers HPA Rig

External Mods:
Cut 5 inches from outer barrel
Custom thread adapter for 14mm CCW
10 inch custom silencer
Paint
Harris Bipod

Here is a test video I made today shooting it at the 200 foot range at Black Ops Airsoft, I need to tweak the camera mount a bit for tomorrows game:

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
In the video I was shooting around 100 psi, I didn't chono it as I was just trying out the new bb's. When I first got the 0.43's I turned the HPA rig all the way up, i think it was around 150-160 psi and was getting 598 fps with 0.43 so it has a huge range (7.15 joules). Typically I skirmish with it at 500 fps with a 100 foot MED.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After putting it all together and using it for a few weeks its time to look around and see what we can make better. I noticed the bolt was a little sticky, and saw some wear marks. These are indicators that there is excessive rubbing going on.

When modifying your gun lets keep a few things in mind:

You are probably not smarter than the people that designed the gun. With that said you are not restricted by something they are, Time. Time is money in the manufacturing world, and they just cannot afford to take allot of time making and assembling your gun if they want to make any money selling it around $200.00.

You on the other hand can spend all the time you like taking it apart, checking tolerances, fit, and finish on all the pieces. The best way to do this is to use it, take note of parts that are too hard to move, to loose etc. Then take it apart, look for wear marks, and places to tighten things up. A good fit and finish check can go a long way.

As I was saying, the bolt is a bit sticky, and I can see wear marks right away:



There are also casting seams that can be removed, I only bother to do this on the parts that make contact:



Anyplace the paint is coming off is from wear, clean it up with some small files and fine sandpaper:



Remember these parts are cast not machined, so they are not perfectly flat and have flaws. Not because the people making them are stupid or lazy, it is about time and money. If the gun as all aluminum and cnc machined instead of cast and white metal, it would cost $2000.00 instead of $200.00. Use your Time advantage and clean all these parts up, don't try to remove metal, just do as little as possible to make the parts right and finished:



10 minutes later:



I cut off about 5 inches of outer barrel because I knew I would be using a silencer, and didn't want a gun 5 feet long:



This lets you see how much room is left inside the outer barrel even with an EDGI Bull Barrel which is bigger around than a standard barrel:



Since the inner barrel is only supported at each end it leaves the entire length unsupported and free to vibrate each shot. I made some nylon spacers to take care of this, I am sure you can buy these but they were easy for me to make so I didn't bother:



Here you can see why I chose the EDGI Bull Barrel, it is much thicker, and will vibrate less with each shot, only the ends are machined down to fit the gun still:

 

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Do you have any play between the vsr conversion and the hop casing theres a fair bit on my tanaka and you can easily rotate the barrel.

I remedied this by ptfe taping the barrel and hop before fitting to the housing so there is no play at all.The barrel can still be rotated but its a lot stiffer now.

I also ptfe taped the hop bar,as the edges seemed quite sharp and i had cut through a bucking and know of others doing similar.To me this is the worst part of the whole design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mine is pretty snug when sliding it in, I think a difference between the KJW and the Tanaka is the KJW has 3 set screws, two tighten into the barrel and one into the bottom of the hop chamber to keep everything super tight.

My hop bar was stainless steel and had very rounded edges, I wonder if they have updated the design, got mine from Evike in April.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got my Tanaka Long Mag today, and sure enough it had sharp edges and a burr where the bb is pushed past to load into the gun. These sharp edges will score the bb and make it fly strange.

Arrow shows the burr:



After I smoothed the sharp edge and burr out with some 600 grit sandpaper:



I removed the fill valve and drilled/tapped the mag for the HPA (high pressure air) fitting:



QD fitting installed:



Hook it up and pressurize it, then dunk it in water to check for leaks, sure enough I had one:



A little Teflon tape and a re-tighten and it is good to go:

 
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