Looking pretty good Dobey, use some 3m double sided tape to fix er' on there and it will suck up a little impact.
glad it worked out for you.
glad it worked out for you.
After putting it all together and using it for a few weeks its time to look around and see what we can make better. I noticed the bolt was a little sticky, and saw some wear marks. These are indicators that there is excessive rubbing going on.
When modifying your gun lets keep a few things in mind:
You are probably not smarter than the people that designed the gun. With that said you are not restricted by something they are, Time. Time is money in the manufacturing world, and they just cannot afford to take allot of time making and assembling your gun if they want to make any money selling it around $200.00.
You on the other hand can spend all the time you like taking it apart, checking tolerances, fit, and finish on all the pieces. The best way to do this is to use it, take note of parts that are too hard to move, to loose etc. Then take it apart, look for wear marks, and places to tighten things up. A good fit and finish check can go a long way.
As I was saying, the bolt is a bit sticky, and I can see wear marks right away:
There are also casting seams that can be removed, I only bother to do this on the parts that make contact:
Anyplace the paint is coming off is from wear, clean it up with some small files and fine sandpaper:
Remember these parts are cast not machined, so they are not perfectly flat and have flaws. Not because the people making them are stupid or lazy, it is about time and money. If the gun as all aluminum and cnc machined instead of cast and white metal, it would cost $2000.00 instead of $200.00. Use your Time advantage and clean all these parts up, don't try to remove metal, just do as little as possible to make the parts right and finished:
10 minutes later:
I cut off about 5 inches of outer barrel because I knew I would be using a silencer, and didn't want a gun 5 feet long:
This lets you see how much room is left inside the outer barrel even with an EDGI Bull Barrel which is bigger around than a standard barrel:
Since the inner barrel is only supported at each end it leaves the entire length unsupported and free to vibrate each shot. I made some nylon spacers to take care of this, I am sure you can buy these but they were easy for me to make so I didn't bother:
Here you can see why I chose the EDGI Bull Barrel, it is much thicker, and will vibrate less with each shot, only the ends are machined down to fit the gun still:
What you are describing is called breaking the chip. As you turn the tap into the metal it cuts a chip that curls up on the cutting edge, backing it up lets the opposite side of each cutting face run into the curled chip that is still attached to the metal and it cuts it free.1) When creating threads in the tapped hole, do you go "clockwise 90 degrees, counterclockwise 45 degrees" and so on until you reach full 360 degrees? OR until you reach the end of the threader drill?
This will work fine, just clamp the work piece down or in a vise so it doesn't turn or twist. Go slow, keep it straight, and use multiple drill sizes until you reach your desired hole size.2) You used a static drill, as far as I see..to go straight perpendicular on the gas tank cylinder..how would you feel if I had no static drill close by? Hand drilling..done with multiple drill sizes from small to large..
You can remove it with a screwdriver, just be careful. I used a valve wrench, you can see it in this picture (the Y shaped tool):3) What did you use to remove the gas valve? A simple flat screwdriver?
Exactly what I have done in the meantime..when I reached a drill size close to that brass cylinder, it fell down by itself.I pulled on it a bit and it was in there tight so I did what you said and drilled it right out.